Try to use the "Recond" mode, to desulfate the battery. If it jumps over, and your battery still can't hold the charge, then there's really no point in trying to charge it for days, because that won't help either. Then your battery is then gone, and it should be replaced as long as it can at least crank and start the car. The weather will only get colder from now on, which means the battery will be able to perform even less. A new battery should cost somewhere between $150-200, labor not included.
Touareg T1: another battery isssue
Here is the thing:
battery is charged via a cteck charger mxs 5.0.
Charger is at stage 7.
You open the door and battery is showing 14volts.
you turn the key to ACC position and the battery starts draining fast going lower than 10volts !!
I don't have the battery history so it might be just a dead battery but it was fine last august and the car has been sitting in a garage since without the charger. The only issue it had was the htird light was on for 2 weeks for no reason and wouldn't shutdown even if you lock the car. This was then repaired.
So either the repair caused a leak somewhere or the battery is dead.
I will let the battery connected to the charger for a few days and then start hunting for the leak or replace the battery.
battery is charged via a cteck charger mxs 5.0.
Charger is at stage 7.
You open the door and battery is showing 14volts.
you turn the key to ACC position and the battery starts draining fast going lower than 10volts !!
I don't have the battery history so it might be just a dead battery but it was fine last august and the car has been sitting in a garage since without the charger. The only issue it had was the htird light was on for 2 weeks for no reason and wouldn't shutdown even if you lock the car. This was then repaired.
So either the repair caused a leak somewhere or the battery is dead.
I will let the battery connected to the charger for a few days and then start hunting for the leak or replace the battery.
1 - 8 of 52 Posts
One more thing. If it turns out you need to replace the battery, ask/for the "Economy" version of the original OEM battery. That's for cars older than 6 years, and is supposedly of same quality as the original, but costs only 2/3 of that. It might also come with a warranty limitation - but because in reality no dealership/shop will honor any warranty on a battery - except it being DOA - anyway, (and especially not after a year or more), you're not better off with the full-price version either.
Only as long as you have an M10 XZN driver and a torque wrench in your tool kit. Most car owners don't even have the latter, and I suspect <1% of all Touareg owners have the former. Without the XZN head you won't be able to losen the bolts securing the seat and allowing access to the battery compartment, and without the torque wrench you're risking damaging the threading in the floor frame or not fastening the seats properly.No labour required. It is DIY.
Having VCDS (again, probably not owned by most Touareg-drivers) is also heavily recommended, because disconnecting and reconnecting the battery might throw all kind of codes in various control modules, which can temporarily or in some cases even "permanently" disable some systems or functions, until said codes have been cleared.
14V when driving is perfectly fine, because that's when your alternator is running, and is charging the battery. The battery meter scale going up to 16 Volts is not there, because charge voltage should ever go near that value under normal circumstances, but to allow you to see when it actually does - meaning when you alternator/voltage regulator has failed. Then you indeed need to stop driving the car and have it repaired, because it will kill your battery. Actually, anything above 14.5 Volts will kill any automotive battery in the long term (even a regular, lead-acid one), and 16 Volts is so much, that it would boil your battery fluid practically instantly, and maybe even cause the explosion of it.Not sure how exact this is. Treg Battery meter (charger/alternator) shows up to 16v !! And is constantly at 14v when driving.
I don't think any car alternator will overcharge, unless of course the alternator/voltage regulator in them is defect. They're working with a safety limit, and never actually charge the battery to full and/or with full voltage, but with a safe margin below it (like 85-95% max), to avoid boiling the battery during the trip.Oem Battery is lead acid so is it safe to go AGM if the véhicule charging system was not designed for an AGM battery?
Because T1/T2 Touaregs have a voltage meter in their instrument clusters, you can always see in them what the the actual charging voltage is - and also, that it never goes anywhere above 14.4 Volts (in a healthy car), but stays around or just slightly over 14V when charging. So, I'd say it's pretty safe to use AGM batteries with Touaregs - or with any modern car with a healthy alternator/regulator, for that matter.
Of course owner manuals should always be consulted regarding the charging voltage values/limits, but I doubt you could find a modern mass produced car in the 1st world markets that would charge its 12 Volts battery with anything above 14.4 max.
It should be embossed on the top of the negative pole of the battery. It's in WW/YY format (WW - week number, YY - year). Original Varta branded batteries are also supposedly color coded as already written above, however, in my experience the color label might not be present on rebranded or OEM batteries.Any infos on how to get the production date from the codes on the battery?
That's because it's not a QR code but a so called "Data Matrix Code", which is not recognized by most bar code reader software. You can decode it here.with a tiny QR code I couldn't read with the iphone.
You'll have to read/post the data matrix code to figure out the manufacture date.
Try the site I've linked previously! Or just post the photo of the bar code here.I managed to read the code with an iphone app 'i-nigma'. The content is the same as what I posted earlier:
1601723174212813
This app was most likely not able to decode the label properly. Or you scanned the wrong label - presumed there's more than one on the battery. The label we're looking for looks like this.
The data in the matrix code should be longer and more complex than what you've posted. It should - amongst others - also contain the part number of the battery (even though obviously in encoded form).
"Brilliant" is not exactly the first word that comes to my mind when I hear that somebody decided to put some important markings on the bottom of a 50 pounds lead-acid battery.This coding is brilliant !
1 - 8 of 52 Posts
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