[TRespect]

Here is the thing:
battery is charged via a cteck charger mxs 5.0.
Charger is at stage 7.
You open the door and battery is showing 14volts.
you turn the key to ACC position and the battery starts draining fast going lower than 10volts !!
I don't have the battery history so it might be just a dead battery but it was fine last august and the car has been sitting in a garage since without the charger. The only issue it had was the htird light was on for 2 weeks for no reason and wouldn't shutdown even if you lock the car. This was then repaired.
So either the repair caused a leak somewhere or the battery is dead.
I will let the battery connected to the charger for a few days and then start hunting for the leak or replace the battery.

 

[FSJ Guy]

A battery charger is not designed to provide WORKING voltage for a vehicle unless it has a jump start mode. (Usually)

If the vehicle has been sitting since August without being driven, the battery has most likely drained completely and that may have pushed it over the edge. <shrug>

Your plan of action seems smart. Try to recharge it and see what happens.

 

[noobytoogy]

For what it costs I'd just pop a new battery in regardless.

You kwow how to change it [without taking the seat out!]?

 

[nickyt]

If you fully charge up the battery, and as soon as you pull current it drops to 10 volts, you have what is called a "dead cell".

Nothing to do there except replace the battery.

It's dead Jim!

'E's a stiff! Bereft of life, 'e rests in peace! If you hadn't nailed 'im to the perch 'e'd be pushing up the daisies! 'Is metabolic processes are now 'istory! 'E's off the twig! 'E's kicked the bucket, 'e's shuffled off 'is mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleedin' choir invisibile!!

THIS IS AN EX-PARROT!!

(pause)

Well, I'd better replace it, then.

 

[Gnits]

Here is the thing:
battery is charged via a cteck charger mxs 5.0.
Charger is at stage 7.
You open the door and battery is showing 14volts.
you turn the key to ACC position and the battery starts draining fast going lower than 10volts !!
I don't have the battery history so it might be just a dead battery but it was fine last august and the car has been sitting in a garage since without the charger. The only issue it had was the htird light was on for 2 weeks for no reason and wouldn't shutdown even if you lock the car. This was then repaired.
So either the repair caused a leak somewhere or the battery is dead.
I will let the battery connected to the charger for a few days and then start hunting for the leak or replace the battery.

Try to use the "Recond" mode, to desulfate the battery. If it jumps over, and your battery still can't hold the charge, then there's really no point in trying to charge it for days, because that won't help either. Then your battery is then gone, and it should be replaced as long as it can at least crank and start the car. The weather will only get colder from now on, which means the battery will be able to perform even less. A new battery should cost somewhere between $150-200, labor not included.

 

[TRespect]

Cteck charger was showing stage 7. Disconnected the charger. waiteda few minutes and bam down to 10v.
I will use the recondition mode and see how it goes.
To answer some of the questions:
Yes I know how to change the battery.
Yes I know the charger is not for starting the car.

Looks like the third brake light being on for 2 weeks drained it. The battery does start the car though.
Another issue I have is the odometer, only the gages (km, rpm) do not light up when I put on the lights.
Probably the guy who repaired the third bake light killed the odometer. I was not there when the repair was done so not sure.

 

[Gnits]

One more thing. If it turns out you need to replace the battery, ask/for the "Economy" version of the original OEM battery. That's for cars older than 6 years, and is supposedly of same quality as the original, but costs only 2/3 of that. It might also come with a warranty limitation - but because in reality no dealership/shop will honor any warranty on a battery - except it being DOA - anyway, (and especially not after a year or more), you're not better off with the full-price version either.

 

[JimJ]

labor not included.

No labour required. It is DIY.

 

[Gnits]

No labour required. It is DIY.

Only as long as you have an M10 XZN driver and a torque wrench in your tool kit. Most car owners don't even have the latter, and I suspect <1% of all Touareg owners have the former. Without the XZN head you won't be able to losen the bolts securing the seat and allowing access to the battery compartment, and without the torque wrench you're risking damaging the threading in the floor frame or not fastening the seats properly.

Having VCDS (again, probably not owned by most Touareg-drivers) is also heavily recommended, because disconnecting and reconnecting the battery might throw all kind of codes in various control modules, which can temporarily or in some cases even "permanently" disable some systems or functions, until said codes have been cleared.

 

[TRespect]

According to ETKA battery is: 000915105DG = 72AH/380A => 182€
Eco version is: JZW915105B => 85AH/400A => 136€
You have different versions of course plus the two battery setup.

and you have a nice warning for the VW technician:

It has been determined that, in more
than 25% of cases, the sealing plug for
the battery degassing opening-
has not been fitted.
Please inform the installer/customer
that the sealing plug that is sprayed on
at the positive pole protective cap
must be fitted correctly.

 

[TRespect]

end of the day battery is dying.
What do you guys advice as a 'long term' storage battery?
I'm thinking of getting a varta.
Treg will not be used much and battery tender will be connected permanently when stored.

 

[noobytoogy]

Varta was the OEM.

 

[GC Autoparts]

Also someting to consider. Volkswagen does offer a warranty on the Battery you purchase from Volkswagen. If the Battery goes out under warranty, they will "Pro-Rate" your battery and give you money back towards a new Battery. Just another way of saving you money.

It happened to me, Volkswagen "Pro-rated" my Battery, and I was able to receive money off a new battery purchase.

Hope that helps!

 

[hedditch]

I recently replaced my flooded Lead Acid with a Delkor AGM. This is an excellent battery with great starting performance.

https://www.delkor.com.au/en-au/products/delkor-agm-batteries/ln5-595-901-090

Stuart..

 

[TRespect]

Thank you guys. I'm in France and the battery is not a VW one. The battery does start the car fine at 10v. I will be getting a Varta soon. I have found two compatible batteries on varta web site.
Silver Dynamic 577400078 => arount 100€
Model: 577 400 078
Capacity: 77 Ah
CCA: 780 A
Width: 175 mm
Length: 278 mm
Height: 190 mm

And
Silver Dynamic AGM 570901076 => arount 140€
Model: 570 901 076
Capacity: 70 Ah
CCA: 760 A
Width: 175 mm
Length: 278 mm
Height: 190 mm

 

[TRespect]

question is: flooded lead acid or agm?
Treg is sitting most of the time in the garage with a cteck charger mxs5.0.
2000 km a year at most.

 

[noobytoogy]

Personally I'd go AGM. Then you don't get covered in battery acid in a upside down car!

 

[TRespect]

Just found this interesting info here Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University :

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.

Not sure how exact this is. Treg Battery meter (charger/alternator) shows up to 16v !! And is constantly at 14v when driving.
Oem Battery is lead acid so is it safe to go AGM if the véhicule charging system was not designed for an AGM battery?

 

[JimJ]

Personally I'd go AGM. Then you don't get covered in battery acid in a upside down car!

Replacement battery purchased from VW in OZ was a flooded lead acid manufactured by Varta.

 

[Flash635]

Thank you guys. I'm in France and the battery is not a VW one. The battery does start the car fine at 10v.

It will work but it is a strain on the starter. It will kill or shorten the life of the starter.