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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All
I have been trying to find some information on DIY transmission oil change but have not seen any for the 8 speed Aisin transmission. Mine is 2012 7P 3.0L diesel (engine CRCA) with NAC transmission. Can someone please help. I am after the following specific information:

1) transmission fill adaptor (size, part number and/or a photograph).
2) oil level check temperature (is it between 35 - 45 degrees Celsius)
3) information on transfer case oil change (mine is 4xmotion so it has a low range transfer case)

Thanks again.
Kumudu
 

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Can't help on the autobox but just buy the correct 850 ml bottle of transfer box oil from your VW dealer.

Don't forget to change the oil in the front and rear duffs too.
 

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I have completed this task recently for my 2012 us spec with 8sp Aisin trans. For the oil fill tool, i used an oil pump designed for filling boat outboard engine lower units. They sell at boat stores or walmart for less than $10. To drain the oil, remove the drain plug, then you need an allen wrench to remove a upspout that is in the drain hole. I then dropped the oil pan that held extra oil in a belly section. Remove and clean the magnets. I replaced the filter, which next time i will skip as it is just a metal screen designed to catch huge chunks. I also replaced the gasket, which was like new. To fill, i used the fill devise which did not have the correct threads, so i just pressed and the oring sealed it. Be sure to put the riser tube back in. I forget how many liters it took. To check, first run the car while parked put it in every gear for a few seconds, then back to park. To check the level, The car should be level, and running, the correct temp is only after a minute or two of running, remove drain plug, it will overflow to the correct level. I used OEM vw fluid. Mine looked good at 75k miles. It funny that VW calls this a lfetime fill, because the replacement bottles of oil had an expiration date printed on them of only 2 years from now.
 

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Perhaps the expiry date is for anyone likes to drink ATF!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Found oil specifications

Hi All
Checking in again ....


I went to a VW dealer and got the oil specifications for the NAC (8 speed Aisin) transmission. My model is 7P with the engine code CRCA. I'll specify all the part numbers I have in case someone is interested:


1) Transmission oil G 055 540 A2 - it seems a wet fill (i.e. remove transmission oil sump and refill) is about 7-8 litres and a dry fill (i.e. complete refresh) is about 12 litres. To be on the safe side I have ordered 13 litres and will be doing this in the next 4-6 weeks.
2) Transmission Strainer - don't have the part number right now. Will update later.
3) Transmission sump gasket - don't have the part number right now. Will update later.
4) Transmission drain plug washer 0C8321181 - apparently the washer is single use.
5) Transmission drain plug WHT005510 - not entirely sure if this is single use.
6) Transfer case G 055 515 A2 - need 850ml but they come in 1 litres containers.
7) Rear diff oil G 052 145 S2 - capacity is more than a litre so recommend getting 2 litres.
8) Rear diff seal plug 0AA409057 - not saying these are single use but in case if someone wants to change.
9) Front diff oil G 052 196 A2 - capacity is more than a litre so recommend getting 2 litres.
10) Rear diff seal plug 0AA409057 - not saying these are single use but in case if someone wants to change.


Will post some pictures once I complete the job. To fill the oil, I've ordered an adapter kit from Amazon. Waiting for the package to arrive at the moment. I know a hand pump with the correct tube size would do the job. I used this method to fill an Audi A6. It was bit messy so I decided to go with this kit. The cost of the kit was USD 120 (see below link) and I hope one of these will fit!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PCFSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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I have completed this task recently for my 2012 us spec with 8sp Aisin trans. For the oil fill tool, i used an oil pump designed for filling boat outboard engine lower units. They sell at boat stores or walmart for less than $10. To drain the oil, remove the drain plug, then you need an allen wrench to remove a upspout that is in the drain hole. I then dropped the oil pan that held extra oil in a belly section. Remove and clean the magnets. I replaced the filter, which next time i will skip as it is just a metal screen designed to catch huge chunks. I also replaced the gasket, which was like new. To fill, i used the fill devise which did not have the correct threads, so i just pressed and the oring sealed it. Be sure to put the riser tube back in. I forget how many liters it took. To check, first run the car while parked put it in every gear for a few seconds, then back to park. To check the level, The car should be level, and running, the correct temp is only after a minute or two of running, remove drain plug, it will overflow to the correct level. I used OEM vw fluid. Mine looked good at 75k miles. It funny that VW calls this a lfetime fill, because the replacement bottles of oil had an expiration date printed on them of only 2 years from now.
Looks like 2yrs is a lifetime for VW?
 

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I have completed this task recently for my 2012 us spec with 8sp Aisin trans. For the oil fill tool, i used an oil pump designed for filling boat outboard engine lower units. They sell at boat stores or walmart for less than $10. To drain the oil, remove the drain plug, then you need an allen wrench to remove a upspout that is in the drain hole. I then dropped the oil pan that held extra oil in a belly section. Remove and clean the magnets. I replaced the filter, which next time i will skip as it is just a metal screen designed to catch huge chunks. I also replaced the gasket, which was like new. To fill, i used the fill devise which did not have the correct threads, so i just pressed and the oring sealed it. Be sure to put the riser tube back in. I forget how many liters it took. To check, first run the car while parked put it in every gear for a few seconds, then back to park. To check the level, The car should be level, and running, the correct temp is only after a minute or two of running, remove drain plug, it will overflow to the correct level. I used OEM vw fluid. Mine looked good at 75k miles. It funny that VW calls this a lfetime fill, because the replacement bottles of oil had an expiration date printed on them of only 2 years from now.
overflow to correct level as in it will stop flowing out when its at its correct level?like mercedes transmissions?
 

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I had two DSG 2.0 TDI Sportwagens and changed the transmission oil several times with a modified garden sprayer.
I made an adapter to allow the oil to be pumped into the transmission from the bottom past the stand pipe and drain back into the sprayer when filled to the correct level set by the stand pipe.
I bought a drain plug and drilled and tapped a hole for a quick connect fitting to the hose of the sprayer.
I use the stock valve for the control filling.
One could just make a small J pipe of copper tubing to hook over the stand pipe and a catch pan to catch the overflow when warming to the specified temperature.
When I bought the small garden sprayer it was about $15.00. It may take a few refills to get the total amount filled.
Mine has worked well for the DSG transmissions, but I have not used it for the Touareg yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know I have not updated this for a while and it is old. Just adding few notes about how I did it.
Sequence of steps were:
1. Drained transmission oil by removing the drain plug. There are 2 plugs, one to drain and the other to fill. Drain plug requires a special socket (from the top of my head, 16mm XZN socket).
2 Then removed transmission sump, cleaned, replaced the filter and gasket and then put the sump back.
3. Filled an equivalent volume of fluid that came out from the sump.
4. Removed both the lines from the transmission to the oil cooler (in the radiator) as I could not figure out which one was the inlet (to the oil cooler). Once I identified the correct line, I re-connected the other. I also replaced the o-rings.
5. Then started the engine and collected 2 litres from the inlet (oil cooler) and stopped the engine. You need a big enough bucket for this task. I would suggest having a 6-8 litre bucket ready and also make sure the line is properly attached to the bucket so the oil won't drip everywhere. Then re-filled the same amount from the fill plug in the transmission sump.
6. Repeated step 5 until I could see fresh oil come out from the inlet (oil cooler). I think I used about 12 litres of transmission oil for the entire job. To break it down, probably 5-6 litres came out of the sump (step 1) and the repeated step 5 for 3 times. That is a total of 12 litres.
It may have been the long way of doing it but I felt comfortable filling it from the filler plug instead getting the transmission pump to do the work. This is the 2 bucket method explained in another thread. The other advantage of doing it the way I did, was that I could measure volume out and then fill exactly the same amount.
My car had 160,000 kms on the clock when I did it (back in 2019). Transmission works great to this date. No issues. I do not believe anyone saying that the transmission may start slipping, etc. after an oil change.
 

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I have driven my Treg for about 150 miles. Took it offroad once and afterwards the transmission is leaking from the front main seal behind the torque converter. I drained the fluid and there is not a stand pipe in the drain port. I am hoping that the previous owner just overfilled the transmission and with there being no stand pipe if it is refilled to the right level it won't leak. Thing has been a joy to own for about 50 miles. Bought it needing a starter so I got into it cheap. But after changing the starter myself, then timing belt as one of the tensioners locked up, then an alternator swap. I am hoping the thing will just stay together for a bit. I don't know if my ownership will survive engine and trans removal for a 5 dollar seal.
 
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