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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
First of all I`m sorry for my first post on this forum to be a question instead of giving good replies to other Touareg owners. I don`t know if I`ve posted in the correct place, if not please correct me. But please help me, i really need your help.
I recently bought a V10 Touareg from 2004. I`ve always wanted to drive such car but more...to feel that wonder engine. But depending on your answer that will make difference between keeping it or sell it because of the problem it has which i can`t afford to repair.
So, my power steering is whining and steering wheel is quite hard to move especially at low speeds. I`ve checked the fluid, no leaks but very dirty and not green, not red, but brown. Seems the previous owner didn`t know and refilled with Dextron instead of VW fluid. I`ve made a flush and refilled with VW specified fluid but...no result. Same whinning and same hard steering.
Normally I should prepare for a Power Steering Pump. I`ve checked the prices, is not expensive at all (~200 euros).
And now the question is: TO BE ABLE TO REPLACE THE P/S PUMP, DO I MUST REMOVE THE V10 ENGINE? Is there any other way or tehnique to be able to reach the pump and remove it?
Please help me. Cause if there isn`t any other solution, I`m doomed. The costs for such repairs are enormous and i can`t afford. Plus, a V10 engine removed I`ll have all chances to not work anymore like before according to the abilities of our "mechanics"
Please help me!
 

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Yes. Engine out job. Maybe it can be done in sity but I doubt it. That bay is tight!

See attached PDF files
 

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Where are you in the world?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I`m from Romania. I`m proud to be one of the few, maybe the only one that managed to rebuild by myself an american V8 350 small block. And I might take the risk to do the german style. All by myself, i relly love Touareg and especially the mighty V10
 

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I've seen how resourceful some of you guys can be but I am wondering if it might be best to break the car for parts to get some money back
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No, i will do it, as I said. Breaking apart a car just to save some money is the coward way. The history repeats in my case. Therefore I will do it in the german style, if you can help me with some useful manuals, i will be thankfull. I`m passionate of this car and that push me forward to take the risk. I will not leave it to any "mechanic" and i will work as hard as i did it before with the american car.
 

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Fair enough! I'll wish you all the best with getting it sorted.

You can buy an hour's time on this VW site to download everything you may need for your specific car.

https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do

Don't forget to tell us how the job goes with some photos too, please.

I know you only need to remove the engine, but this is the famous "Frex thread" which may help.

https://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f93/diy-v10-teardown-and-rebuild-repair-of-the-distribution-of-a-touareg-v10-frex-73289.html
 

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The only chance you might have is if you take the entire front bumper off. Note: you should realize that I have no hands-on experience with that engine. I do know due to space constraints that everything V10 is complicated. This is literally a super car engine. As you have already noticed, there is no real working space.

If you pull the engine, there is a list of things you should do before you put it back in. Ask the V10 guys if you go that route.

Plus, I have linked a thread for you.

clubtouareg.com/forums/f93/diy-v10-teardown-and-rebuild-repair-of-the-distribution-of-a-touareg-v10-frex
 

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The pump is on the right front of the engine. It is driven by the gear system on the front of the engine and the back side is connected to the AC compressor. I’ve never had an issue with either so I can’t comment on whether pulling the bumper and core support will give you access but I think it would be tight at the engine cradle is right there. I doubt it will help but I will throw this out there...

I had an issue where the steering was heavy and found that replacing the fluid in the reservoir 4 times and driving in an open lot from full left to full right several times on each reservoir siphon cured the problem. My work for you, may not. A lot easier than anything else that has been suggested.

Also pulling the engine is not the terrible job that people who have never done it say it is. Look on line and there are ideas for doing it with and without a lift. A little bit of planning will save a few headaches and as you get into the job you will feel more confident about what you are doing...
 

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I agree with Blownvette. It's not really that difficult to pull the engine out. It is a daunting task the first time you remove & install, but not something that is insurmountable. Just take your time and take lots of pictures.


I built a simple pallet that I use to remove & install the engine with. I have a forklift, but a pallet jack would do the trick as well.



I didn't see it in your post, but how many miles are on it?
 

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I'd try the option suggested by Blownvette - SEVERAL drain and flush cycles each to include several full range (L and R) turn cycles. It won't cost too much and it might make the steering work well enough to get buy - at least until something else comes along requiring engine removal.
One of the risks of the 04V10 is possible wear on the cam lobes [usually caused by the wrong lube oil]. Before you decide to pull the engine be sure to have a used oil analysis done (on oil with a known few thousand KM on it) and determine if there are unusual amounts of iron in the oil - Blackstone labs in the US does a good job but I'm sure there are good places in Europe also. It would be a shame to replace the power steering pump and THEN discover the cams are almost flat.

Good luck
 

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If you have access to a car lift, time, and research on here a lot...

You can end up being the only garage for a long distance that does Touareg Engine Drops. ;)
 

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People would normally refurbish both turbos and do other stuff as well whilst the engine is on the floor so the job and the expense can increase considerably.

Spending some money on a bucket of power steering fluid is way cheaper and well worth a try.

Don't forget to lock the air suspension first if you use a wheels free lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you so much guys for your replies and I apreciate alot when i see people wants to support. Therefore I decided to keep this wonder car and make all necesary repairs to have it in perfect conditions.
First of all I will start changing front arms (air suspension) and i will come back to you with pictures with procedures made by me in such conditions that everybody can make them with minimum costs.
Regarding the power steering pump I`ve already started to "clean" it by flushing and re-flushing the fluid which initially I`ve told you it was brown dirty...muddy i can say. I hope i will revitalize the pump such way.
But even so, that pump will have to be replaced and that fear of engine remove starts to dissapear after some researches I`ve made about assembling. Hard work, lot, lot, lot of attention to pay but not difficult.
This weekend i will start and i will keep you posted
 

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Have the front tyres dangling in the air (engine idling). Then turn steering from lock to lock about thirty times. Do it slowly. Keep the reservoir topped up.

Wait two hours

repeat.

Then go for a drive. This is the only way to properly bleed the system of air (number one cause of a whine is air)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This weekend i will change the left/right upper/lower front arms and shocks. They are already very noisy and needs replace. Still thinkin how previous owner has driven with such car such way...
Therefore it will be the best moment to do the procedure of bleeding that 4ePikanini described me and thanks a lot.
I will keep you posted on Sunday afternoon with the results. I just hope this will revitalize my pump and i will avoid the "engine remove" procedure
 

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...

I had an issue where the steering was heavy and found that replacing the fluid in the reservoir 4 times and driving in an open lot from full left to full right several times on each reservoir siphon cured the problem. My work for you, may not. A lot easier than anything else that has been suggested.
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^^^ this

I have seen this a lot in my old independent shop days with the Audis, before the 11S was more commonly available. A top off of PS of the wrong type is definitely not a long term solution, but I too would first do several fluid swaps with the proper synthetic mineral fluid before taking on the pump. To properly purge the fluid, the front wheels should be in the air, so you can turn the wheel lock to lock. Empty the resevoir with a turkey baster, refill and purge.repeat.

There are several screens in the banjo bolts, but if it is truly just a wrong fluid that was the cause, I would definitely invest in a case or two of the synthetic mineral fluid, and purge the wrong stuff out. If there was 'any' of the proper fluid in there before he added the wrong flavor, chances are good the pump, seals and rack are not permanently damaged. Why he had to add any fluid at all, might be a bigger concern.

Good luck and definitely post up your pursuits and efforts

Cheers

Scott J
07 V10tdi
03 Suburban 2500
94 FZJ80 Landcruiser
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi again,
Well, seems i was not so lucky. I did the procedure described by 4ePikanini. I have "washed" the system with about 4 quarts of new P/S oil untill it became bright clear, did the "bleeding" but...just a slight whining reduce and better maneuvrability of the steering wheel but not more. Regarding the Fourdiesel`s oil probe, no need to send the oil for a lab result. It was the sun which has shown me there is metal particles in the oil. Some sun rays straight into my oil can has shown me, it was something like small particles of sand on the sea shore bright into the sun.
Therefore i will continue driving it like this untill i`ll need a better reason to remove engine and then I`ll do it.
 

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That's a bummer.

Keep us in the loop with any developments.
 
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