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Discussion Starter #1
I've been in contact with Rockford, who is the USA re-seller for Helix. Their Match line up is designed for simplicity, plug and play systems. I was on AudioTec Fisher's website (Helix parent company), to find out if there was any plug and play harnesses for the Touareg. Turns out there is.

If you have a second generation, there is FOR SURE a plug and play option. If you have a third gen, I'm 98% positive it will work. I have mine on order and will let you know how it works.

I'll be installing the Match PP-52DSP, which is not only a Digital Signal Processor, but also provides 35 watts RMS to each of the 4 channels of the car. It also has a fifth subwoofer channel, rated at 160 watts RMS, that I can later on add a subwoofer.

Link to the PP-52DSP is here: MATCH PP 52DSP

The cable you need is PP-AC92C.
 

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I'm looking at doing the same thing. Mounting locations are what I am interested in. where is the amp located for the premium sound systems located? I have 2015 tdi treg sport.
 

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im considering to do the same and add on eof thier subs
Can you tell me if you purchased and installed the unit?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update - I've received the DSP and the harness. I'll get to installing it around the holidays, so I'll post results/pics later on this month or early Jan.
 

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Helix PP82DSP 8-channel Amplifier with Integrated DSP Match PP82DSP
I ordered the dsp, pp 92 AC adapter harness, amp wiring kit and tool to remove trim.
Still no clue where to mount it for easy access for powered sub or amp and sub
I liked the idea of the powered sub under the rear seat. I just want to get the DSP mounted (hidden) and build from there. I'll try to post pics as I go blindly along.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good deal. Remember that with the 82DSP, you'll need to run separate power and ground and NOT use the harness, as it draws too much power. The Match harness already has quick disconnects for power and ground so it's a pretty easy incorporation.
 

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Ok, I got the Match DSP today and decided to pull the head unit out and look at the wires. Wow Things are different than I imagined.
First Thing I removed was the center storage box on the top of the dash to reveal 2 screws to remove the bezel around the touch screen. Guess what; The touch screen is just that, no head unit, just the touch screen.

Then I removed the Glove compartment and exposed the back of the dvd player thinking I could follow the harness to where the Head unit is. The harness goes off to who knows where. The harness looks like it may go through the firewall and runs along the bottom of the windshield under the wiper cowling toward the driver side.
I decided I needed to put the thing back together because I need to drive to work in the morning.

I didn't unplug the gang plugs behind the dvd player in the glove compartment yet due to not knowing the code to get the unit working again..

I'm wondering if maybe the DVD player might be the head unit that I need to plug the adapter into for the DSP. Anyway there was a label with an id number on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The head unit brain is in the right rear of the hatch area.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Ok, the next place I m going to venture is the right rear hatch area like Philth says, get the serial number and call the dealer to get the code. The power lead is 8 awg and I'm hoping is big enough. With the head unit in the rear (lol) the install should be a little easier than under the dash somewhere. Thanks Philth.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I really wouldn't run the 82DSP on the stock harness. How many amps is it rated for? Then compare that with the fused rating for the stereo.


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Good point on the amps and harness. I didn't realize the the total watts of 1120 55w x channels. Wow. That a bunch for stock harness. I considered a little about the harness and thought I could detune it with the dip switches an limit the max output to the speakers with the software and head unit then heavy wire to the sub. The manual only cautioned the main power to the DSP and didn't mention the stock harness. The manual can de downloaded at Crutchfield in the item description details for the PP 82DSP. Maybe I should have bought the 52dsp instead and in this case less is more. I can't find anything about the 82dsp being installed in any vehicle. I may have to talk with tech at Crutchfield. I'll update this post as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You can buy a 10awg amp kit and run the B+ wire from the battery to the wire of the Match harness. The Match harness should have quick disconnects for the positive and ground power leads. Disconnect those and that's where you will connect the 10 awg wire.
 

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The Pp82dsp has large bus connector for main power from battery. I'm going to use 8 awg amp kit from battery to the dsp. The bus looks like it would accept to like 4 awg. The p52dsp doesn't appear to have this large bus for large awg power hook up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh that's right. It's set up like a typical aftermarket amp. Even easier to wire from the battery.
 

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Well I found the head unit for the RNS behind the right tail light. Hooked up the PP 82dsp
with the harness adaptor and powered direct to the battery and turned on the unit.

No Sound, No Status light on the amp. I check all the connections and they were all good. Called tech support at Crutchfield and went through some basic checks and everything was hooked up and powered properly. DSP unit is deemed to be defective and a replacement DSP and Adaptor Harness is on it's way.

What I learned to remove the right rear panel in cargo area;
Trim tools and torx are a must.
remove rear most pillar cover over the right rear window needs to remove a screw.

Pillar trim behind the right rear door needs to be removed to a access a screw located about the seam in line with the bottom of the rear right rear window.

Remove the strip that has the chrome cargo anchors on the floor of the floor of cargo area by torx screws holding the anchors (4 screws) and pry up the bar in about the middle to remove the bar.

I removed the chrome guard that goes across the back where the latch is for a little easier access.

The rest is all trim pry bars. tabs and clips are everywhere around the panel.. I tried to just remove the black panel with the light in it first and there's really no benefit to removing it. The whole panel needs to be removed.

there are two empty spaces stacked one on top of the other that this DSP fits perfect and tight into.

Good News is I didn't lose the id code to keep the radio working.. Good idea to take a picture of the back of the head unit so you can have a record of the serial numbers and other info.

Fingers crossed that the next unit will work. I'm giving up on this unit if it doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you make sure the remote turn on lead was powered on??? Something doesn't seem right. Those units are very solid.
 

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The blue wire doesn't make sense. The 12 volt wire that is hot going to the head unit is hot 12 volts all the time. The switched wires going into the head unit are a reduced voltage that makes the 12 volt test light very dim. when the adapter is hooked up to the harness the blue wires go no where. The thin long blue wire has a black wire tied in with it that goes into the harness going back to the DSP. That tied together black and blue wire is what I assume to be the remote turn on lead. I hooked it up to the 12 cable going to the dsp to mock a remote turn on and the unit still didn't power up.

I had power at the yellow 20 amp fuse in the harness that comes out of the DSP I didn't find anywhere on the head unit that I would consider to be a choice for the turn on lead.

The nearest switched lead that would consider is the one that goes to the accessory plug (cig lighter) in the rear cargo panel.

problem with that is there will be no more listening to the radio with the ignition switch off because the amp won't be powered up and there is no pass-through of the sound when the amp isn't powered. I spend my lunchtime in my car and listen to the news and like the feature of not having to turn on the ignition to use the radio.

Without doubt I know I will have to find a solution to powering the remote turn on switch but, by running the remote switch wire direct to the battery to made, both the tech and myself feel there might be a problem with the DSP unit.
 

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Ok, I received the replacement unit Match PP 82DSP and Match pp 10E-d Subwoofer (2 10")
I hooked up the DSP and turned it on and everything worked the first try. Crutchfield sent me a replacement DSP and Adapter harness because I couldn't get the DSP to power up.

This DSP was a cinch to hook and there were no issues at all. As for the Blue amp turn on wire, NOT NEEDED, The amp powers on as soon as there is speaker signal coming from the Head unit. The rem out is for powering an additional amp for like a subwoofer. The Blue wire is not hooked up.

As for turning on the infotainment system without the ignition on, it still works. amp turns on and off with the radio.

The DSP really makes the system come to life and has the capability to build on with an additional that I don't think I'll ever need and the 55 watts RMS will power some really nice speakers that may eliminate the Sub in the future when I get older.

I'm kind of glad I got a bad unit first because it gave me a chance to research the Treg animals audio system and want to thank Philth for sticking with me and giving his helpful input on this little project.
 

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