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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Good morning all,

I have a 2013 Touareg TDI and it is fantastic. HOWEVER, it had an issue when I started it, occasionally the timing chain would rattle... It got worse. So after some deliberation and research, I figured after my semester ended I would start the teardown and this is it.

My plan:
  • Replace timing chains and tensioners
  • Refresh cylinder heads (Cleaning w/ new seals)
  • Clean injectors and replace seals
  • Replace all gaskets on the top end of the end of the engine

Parts Ordered:
- Febi Bilstein timing kid (CNRB Engine)

- Engine seal kit

- Injector seal kit

- Geba Water pump

- 3.0TDI timing tool kit

- CNRB Elring head bolts
Item number:
123292-06179141

- Meyle Fuel & oil Filter
FCP Euro

- Fuel Injector retaining bolts x6

- Oil Filter housing
Koomaha off amazon

Total costs w/ miscellaneous items & a couple of items like trans fluid and wheel bearings I didn't add was about $1600 which is an absolute steal versus buying straight from the dealer.

Ordering these parts off of eBay I understood I was taking a big risk but decided to try with the success I've had in the past. I am pleased to say that everything ordered felt quality and was installed without any issues. The timing kit I believe is actually the OEM part, there were sanding marks where the Audi logo was at. I was most worried about the seal kit but upon inspection, everything was packaged in "OEM" packaging and felt absolutely fantastic. The head gaskets had the vw/audi markings on them as well. Now with that said I am taking it with a grain of salt but regardless I was confident that these items are going to last for a long time.

Onto the project: I will only be showing more of the "Main parts" this is not a how to.


From the VW service manual it shows dropping the engine and trans w/ the subframe as the best way to remove the engine. I have seen the video of the guy removing the transmission but I had access to a lift so dropping it is how I went with it.
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Engine & trans removed. I undid the harness to the fuse box and the ecu. This involved removing the windshield wipers & the plastic cover. I also kept the turbo & downpipe in during the removal.
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Front of the motor w/ water pump removed
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Engine and transmission split, this involved removing the six torque converter bolts, trans cooler lines attarched to the engine, starter as well as bell housing bolts.
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Side view
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Next step is the rear timing cover. This involved putting the engine to TDC and putting in your timing kit. There are 2 pins one for each camshaft, one for the balance shaft/fuel pump pulley, and a locking pin for the crank.
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Top Covers removed & pins in
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So this cover comes off but apparently, I don't have a picture of it off w/ the old timing set, but don't worry! I have one with the new one.

Cams, This car had been very well taken care off with a long service history from the dealer on its car fax, this picture proves that.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Cam gears
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It should go without saying each side is identical pretty much.

Cams removed
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Head 1 off
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Other head off
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Front View
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Rear view
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Nasty looking injector
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I also did not take a picture of these finished but keep them in order, they are calibrated specifically to their cylinder. I have an ultrasonic cleaning machine and I let them soak for about an hour at about 40 degrees Celcius, carbon melted right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is the part of the project where I start refreshing and reassembling

Cylinder head before
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Cylinder head after. Ultrasonic cleaned, valves cleaned & lapped, new valve seals. Lifters ultrasonically primed/cleaned in ATF
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On the car
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Other side
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Front view
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I used white-out to mark where the gears met up at TDC, this day I was exhasuted and flipped the exhaust and intake cam on the right side. yikes... Decided to correct them and call it a day.

NOTE* There are two plastic coolant pipes that sit within the V of the engine. Someone I know who works on these regularly works on the clued me in that they leak after a while. I searched around in my seal kit I ordered and it had both flange seals as well as the oil cooler seal. There was another seal for the oil cooler plate but I didn't change it as the oil cooler seal was in good condition. The two flange seals were starting to harden.

Numbers 5 & 7 are the two plastic flanges and I replaced seals 2 & 9.
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Oil cooler seal is number 4 in this diagram.
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That's quite an undertaking. Props to you for doing it yourself.
Post up more as you go along and also a video of it running with sound at the end of the project.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
It's timing time! When I pulled the old timing off, the main chain that connects to the cam gears was the problem child. The tensioner I could easily squeeze with my hand, so no wonder it rattled like hell on startup. Disaster waiting to happen. Other than this the guides and rear tensioner were in amazing condition.

First chain on, this is for the Balance shaft and oil pump.
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Second chain
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Spinning

Covers on w/ new sealant and rear main seal, loctight on flywheel bolts
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Valve covers & injectors installed, Both ultrasonically cleaned. When installing injectors make sure you get all the copper washer seals in first. These things are pesky, I found best is to get a long clean wire and slide them down, taking away the chance for them to fall into the engine and having to take the valve cover off (I checked in paranoia and ended up dropping one :)) The injectors also have 2 rubber o-rings one for the shaft and one for the little nipple on top. Oil both before installing injectors and return line because YOU WILL knick the seal and have a oil and/or fuel leak.
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Manifolds, ac compressor and power steering pump installed. (I didn't plug the ac compressor, had to evacuate the system again because trash got in. Cover it up don’t be lazy)
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Other side
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At this point I put the fuel rails/lines back in, put the coolant lines on in the V of the motor and started routing the wiring around.

Trans back in place
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More wiring stuff
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Everything routed back mostly
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You might notice the oil filter housing isn't on. I tried replacing the seal behind the thermostat and I yanked out the wiring because it was connected to the thermostat. So that was replaced.

Circled is where the plug connection is on the oil filter housing
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Intake manifold on and more wire routing
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More pieces on, oil filter housing on, turbo and downpipe on, all wiring ready to drop in
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Side view
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This is the last picture of everything out of the car. Up to this point everything went pretty smoothly. Getting everything back in wasn't bad I had some help as doing this by myself would of taken forever.

Video of it running


In all this took me about 5 10-12 hour days. I WOULD NOT recommend doing this if you are looking for a weekend project. I'm fortunate to have access to a mechanic shop in my family and have been able to work on these type of cars for a number of years. However, if you do have the resources, know how, time, and money if you mess something up go for it. These cars are an absolute joy to work on, there's a lot of room, you can find the VW service manual for them online and it tells you how to do literally everything.

It has been about two weeks since I finished this project and the egg runs SWEET. No more rattling, feels and sounds strong. I have the malone stage 2 w/ the deletes as well as the GTB2260vzk and the car is so much smoother than before with its power delivery. What amazes me is that previously besides the tensioner this car ran great and I didn't think it could get much better. It’s crazy what cleaning can do and I cleaned everything from the throttle body, the intake manifold to the heads. Gas mileage is noticeably better about 3-4 mpg around town. Highway is relatively the same I usually hover around 35mpg @70mph on average. Sometime tomorrow I'll see if I can get a video of driving.

A picture of the beauty
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Thank you for your read.
 

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Everything routed back mostly
View attachment 250833

You might notice the oil filter housing isn't on. I tried replacing the seal behind the thermostat and I yanked out the wiring because it was connected to the thermostat. So that was replaced.

Circled is where the plug connection is on the oil filter housing
View attachment 250834

Intake manifold on and more wire routing
View attachment 250835

More pieces on, oil filter housing on, turbo and downpipe on, all wiring ready to drop in
View attachment 250836

Side view
View attachment 250837

This is the last picture of everything out of the car. Up to this point everything went pretty smoothly. Getting everything back in wasn't bad I had some help as doing this by myself would of taken forever.

Video of it running


In all this took me about 5 10-12 hour days. I WOULD NOT recommend doing this if you are looking for a weekend project. I'm fortunate to have access to a mechanic shop in my family and have been able to work on these type of cars for a number of years. However, if you do have the resources, know how, time, and money if you mess something up go for it. These cars are an absolute joy to work on, there's a lot of room, you can find the VW service manual for them online and it tells you how to do literally everything.

It has been about two weeks since I finished this project and the egg runs SWEET. No more rattling, feels and sounds strong. I have the malone stage 2 w/ the deletes as well as the GTB2260vzk and the car is so much smoother than before with its power delivery. What amazes me is that previously besides the tensioner this car ran great and I didn't think it could get much better. It’s crazy what cleaning can do and I cleaned everything from the throttle body, the intake manifold to the heads. Gas mileage is noticeably better about 3-4 mpg around town. Highway is relatively the same I usually hover around 35mpg @70mph on average. Sometime tomorrow I'll see if I can get a video of driving.

A picture of the beauty
View attachment 250838

Thank you for your read.
Fantastic.
 
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