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Discussion Starter #1


Needs done in 2k, last time the p/o did just the belt. Some other thread this might be normal even new in certain positions?


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I have the AXQ V8 and I have never managed to have enough slack to do that. There is a procedure to replace the 40V V8 thermostat, by stopping the engine in a certain point of the cycle so you have a lot of top end timing belt slack, but even those DIY do not show that much slack.

Check the engine for belt slack at least 4 times, with running the engine between each. The engine should stop at a different point each time the engine is shutdown. If all four stops are loose, then 99.8% chance you have a serious problem about to occur. I know that in some spots, the timing belt is tight with no slack along the top and you should be looking for that to happen.

If the timing belt is always that loose, I would severly restrict driving and set it up for a full belt replacement, scheduled to be done yesterday!

Since it only had the belt last time, do NOT skip or skimp or anything. Full belt with all tensioners, guides, water pump, and thermostat is indicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh that’s interesting thanks about the t stat.
I actually went through that on my 2.7t, didn’t know about that procedure.

As soon as I turned the belt by hand it got tight like normal:


So I turned it by hand 2x a few times and it just seemed fine as can be. So I set it at TDC and the cam wings didn’t seem perfect to my eye? Maybe this has to do with adjuster?

Broke out the bar to double check and its not perfect and slip in. I can get it in but it requires a bit of finesse. In my experience it should just slip in no resistance. So last guy probably didn’t use the bar, I see the white out marks. I also assume that it’s out a little bit the cam adjusters are picking up the slack. Or that’s how it is? I have no codes.











I got everything to do the full belt job and valve cover gaskets cam adjuster pads seals caps. I also ordered black oxide water pump bolts but got nervous about maybe them not being enough for aluminum and coolant and went with the updated oem bolts and oem crank pulley bolts, also some coolant. What a way to blow 50 bucks. They aren’t here yet so I’m not gonna dig in quite yet.

All seems fine. I guess it must have just stopped at that certain point to get thebbekt out or perhaps the tensioner or cam adjuster bleeds down?


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Yes, it sounds like you just accidently stopped at the point of most slack. Talk about the luck of the draw.

If the slack is only showing up at one certain point, that is a characteristic of the 40 valve V8. I was only worried that the belt was going to be loose thru all points.

Since you find that turning the engine over results in places where the top slack is gone, then that is also normal for this engine.

Sounds like you are probably ok. Good luck on the new timing belt. My experience is that you have a decent (80/20) chance of the tensioner and guides lasting one extra belt, but try to get by with that twice and the parts will almost always fail.

Glad to hear that you are not going to try reusing the parts for the third belt. It is just easier to replace the *&*$# parts while you are in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Germans said it was normal on 4.2 because of the location. Someone stateside points out tensioner bleeding down...


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Where did you read there was a slack point to remove the T stat? That’s pretty slick. Just removed my s4 2.7 and it was tight. It would have been nice to know more about this. Same belt, same part number.



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Where did you read there was a slack point to remove the T stat? That’s pretty slick. Just removed my s4 2.7 and it was tight. It would have been nice to know more about this. Same belt, same part number.
The Audi Guys are the knowledge base on the 40V V8 engine. Audi used that thing for over a decade. :D

audiworld.com/forums/a8-s8-d2-platform-discussion-8/changing-thermostat-without-removing-timing-belt

dognmonkey.com/audi/2000-a8-40v-thermostat-replacement-without-removing-t-belt
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I also found this nugget. Bar didnt just slip in like it’s supposed to I had to finesse it. Last guy didn’t use appropriate tools or methods I guess given the white out marks (lock bar - popping cams off taper)





With some very slight pressure and moving a bit:



But even with the naked eye the pass side is slightly off a hair. I guess with the cam adjuster there’s enough adjustment so I don’t get an out of phase code.
It runs great. Maybe it’ll be a bit better when that’s all lined up perfect.


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