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2013 VW Touareg TDI Sport w/tech
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What is the "vehicle Diagnostic checker" device referenced in the 'level check.jpg instructions in post #35?
VCDS cable and software, or the Volkswagen service department. You can see the temperature of the transmission fluid using VCDS, and check the fill level when it's at the specified temp (can't remember the number).
 

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Got my O-rings, 12x liter of oil, buckets and lines. Ready to attack this work this week. Since I have +207k km, I intend to replace the filter AFTERWARD. I also have a manual transfer pump in order to accelerate gravity.

This is the pump I have. Worked VERY well for the diff. the hose is 3/8 and not 1/2'', I was thinking of adapting it to fit.


what is the adapter needed to fill the transmission oil pan from the bottom? VAS6262/2 ? I only need to thread in the port and push the oil through with my manual hand pump.
 

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Hi all, the genuine filter installed is a wire mesh filter correct? Any reason these cannot be cleaned and reused if there is no visible signs of material caught that cannot be cleaned? Of course would replace the filter pick up oring in this scenario.

I have purchased a Ryco transmission filter kit however this is a paper filter element, it will likely provide better filtration however higher restriction. Would rather keep it all as per OEM if the wire mesh filter is adequate.

For the aftermarket filters you have installed, are they paper element or wire mesh?
 

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OEM Part number for the 8 speed tranny is G 055540A2 => 1L => around 43€ a bottle.
I wouldl just drop the pan, replace filter, clean and refill. and make sure fill level is good.
2014 is not that old and 3L of old oil will not harm that much.
If you want to flush and refill you will need to flush first => 12L of oil, then drop the pan and clean/replace filter then refill => maybe 8 or 9 Liters again so that's gonna be some work and money.
I plan to flush then drop the pan but I have a 2004 tranny.
How many L did you use finally?
 

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So it takes quite a long time. Almost 2 hours for the fill/reservoir bucket to catch up. I used 12 liters of Ravenol T-WS Lifetime Full synthetic.

I have advice for future DIYers of the T3. First, wear crap clothes, I did, haha.. Threw them away afterwards.

Second, somehow put a siphon bulb in the 1/2 inch vinyl tubing between the supply bucket and the in-feed line of the transmission line. This would EXTREMELY speed the "fluid charging" process!! After every start cycle of the engine, pump about 2 liters, then kill the engine. Then a siphon bulb would be great at pumping 2 liter back into the transmission. The 12 liter change would be done in 20 minutes TOPS.

As I can now attest, the fluid can only gravity feed, period, there is no suction whatsoever on that transmission line. The output side absolutely gushes quickly, have a helper and don't pump out more than 2 liters at a time. This is how I did it.

I got exactly 12 liters into my used bucket, and 12 liters in. For whatever reason, it NEVER ran "new" fluid in the outflow tube. I suspect because my helper was rowing through R-N-D-N-R-P and shutdown , we may have gotten a lot of fluid out of the torque converter as well. I recommend 14 L of tranny fluid to be sure of a full change. Next time, I will do a pan drop at about 160,000 miles and also change the plastic filter and gasket, clean the pan and magnets, and pre-fill the pan with the old fluid, then perform the complete system flush.


I will have to source the VAS fill tube tool, just to be sure at later date, because there is no way for me to fill without it. I have to know if the level is safe.
would a small amount of air get into the system when detaching and attaching the lines from cooler?
 

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Hey all,
I would love to do this two bucket flush on my '11, but can't due to apartment complex "rules" where I live. So I've got an appt. with the local dealership to have them drop the trans pan, change the fluid/filter/gasket and clean the magnets and pan. The service guy initially said that with just over 96k on it that he wouldn't recommend doing it. He said doing it could cause the trans to fail prematurely/slippage etc. but also that it doesn't always happen.
Has anyone done it with similar high mileage, and did you have any premature failure of the trans?
 

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Here's a You Tube video I bumped into that may ease some minds on the tranny fluid flush, it's for a 2009, but the procedure will be similar. When replacing the pan and gasket, I screwed 4 - 3'' long bolts (heads cut off) with the same thread as the pan bolts into each corner of the tranny to guide the pan straight up and not disturb the alignment of the gasket. This is also a good aid for when you're doing sumps or manifolds and using a silicon like sealer.

2009 VW Touareg Transmission Flush -
 

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Even tough the video is on an '09 is is good to see that doing a flush is possible, it doesn't say if the transmission developed any negative effects afterwards.
Unfortunately for me I think the dealership may not be familiar with doing a service, no full flush, as they have probably been told and adhere to the "sealed for life" mentality. I will question them more when I go in and if necessary provide them with a procedure I grabbed from the BlauParts website which was pretty detailed on doing just a service not a full flush on my '11.
Being an electronic/mechanical tech. for 37 years I'd love to be able to get involved in doing it but I know they'll give the "for insurance reasons" quote on why I can't.
 

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Just did this on my '16 with 62k. Went through every bit of 5 gallons of fluid (TopTec1800) and even still the incoming was a noticeably different color than the outgoing. Filled it back up with the engine off and waited until the fluid started to drip out of the overflow hole. Didn't realize that (like every other car, duh) the engine needs to be running while doing this to accomplish the proper fill level. Ordered the tool for $8 on Amazon so I'll top it off properly when I get the chance.
 

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Just did this on my '16 with 62k. Went through every bit of 5 gallons of fluid (TopTec1800) and even still the incoming was a noticeably different color than the outgoing. Filled it back up with the engine off and waited until the fluid started to drip out of the overflow hole. Didn't realize that (like every other car, duh) the engine needs to be running while doing this to accomplish the proper fill level. Ordered the tool for $8 on Amazon so I'll top it off properly when I get the chance.
Matthew, one more thing to remember is that the oil level should be checked at 30 degrees celsius. This is the temperature of the transmission fluid. So ideally you need a scan tool (or a Ross Tech) to measure the fluid temperature. So to be clear, the process is to open the fill plug, top up (if needed) then leave it open while the engine is running and keeping an eye on the transmission fluid temperature. When the temperature hits 30 degrees celsius, you need to close the fill plug. I live in Melbourne and I did this during autumn and the transmission fluid temperature got to 30 degrees celsius pretty quicky, I think within about 7 minutes.
 

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Just adding few notes about how I did it. I did not use the 2 bucket method. Instead it was a single bucket method. I only removed the inlet to the oil cooler then collected the oil coming out of the transmission (to the cooler). I also did the filter change at the same time so I had the pan off, replaced filter and the gasket. There were bit of 'dust' on the magnets so cleaned them as well. Then I filled the transmission first. Then removed the oil cooler inlet (in the radiator). So the sequence of steps were:
1. Drained transmission oil.
2 Then removed transmission sump, cleaned, replaced the filter and gasket and then put the sump back.
3. Filled the same amount of fluid that came out from.
4. Removed both the lines to the oil cooler as I could not figure out which one was the inlet (to the oil cooler). Once I identified the correct line, I re-connected the other. I also replaced the o-rings.
5. Then started the engine and collected 2 litres from the inlet (oil cooler). Then re-filled the same amount from the fill plug in the transmission sump.
6 Repeated this until I could see fresh oil come out from the inlet (oil cooler). I think I used about 12 litres of transmission oil.
It may have been the long way of doing it but I felt comfortable filling it from the filler plug instead getting the transmission pump to do the work. The other advantage is that I could measure volume out and then fill exactly the same amount.
My car had 160,000 kms on the clock. Transmission works great now. No issues. I do not believe anyone saying that the transmission may start slipping, etc. after an oil change.
 

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So I ended up filling a 5 gallon bucket as I thought the fluid still looked dark. I had a TopTec1800 container with a dab more than 5g in it, so I thought I would be ok on fluid. In attempting the top up procedure today I was unable to inject enough fluid to make it run out of the drip tube. So I'm a quart or two low. I ran around looking for a compatible fluid and found that Valvoline MaxLife Multi Vehicle has the G055 540 A2 number: US_Val_MLMultiVehicle_ATF_EN.pdf - DocuSign CLM

Unless NAPA happens to have a quart of TopTec1800 tomorrow AM I'll be topping off with the Valvoline.
 

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Hey sorry to bring this up again just want to clarify which tube in the cooler you put the clean fluid in and which one the engine will pump out the old?

The top hose is for clean fluid right?

The bottom is the old stuff?
Bottom is where you push or gravity feed fresh fluid and top is the dirty fluid that is pumped by the vehicle. The OP photo is in reverse.

I dropped the pan and changed the filter put it all back and feed 5.5L which is what came out through the cooler line. Then ran the vehicle in 12-18sec intervals pumping out 1-1.5L then used a fluid pump to pump the same amount back in, to flush 6.5L of fluid out in total. It didn't run gold like the top tec 1800 put in but was way way better looking. First service on tranny at 263,000km it was brown almost black....
 
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