T3 Transmission flush idea, with wonderful drawings.
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Thanks for all the great info you guys posted above! I am planning on doing the filter change and full flush on my '14 T3 TDI. In the process of pricing out the different fluids and parts, I found a filter kit made by ATP part number B-425. It's sold on Amazon ($64), Ebay ($57), and listed on the ATP's website catalog. This seems like a great deal for both a filter and pan gasket. Has anyone had any experience with this kit on their Aisin trans? TIA
Seems like even the manufacturer is confused about what kind of transmission this kit is for. On their respective product page in the header they mention a part number with 0C8 in it, which is the correct designation for second generation Touareg transmission, but then in the specifications section they say that it's for 09D transmissions, which is the one used in first generation Touaregs. "Application" tab then lists 2011-2013 Touaregs (but missing later model years, even though those are also using the same transmission).
If going by the looks, the kit definitely looks like it's intended for second generation Touareg 0C8 transmissions, but one must wonder that if the manufacturer can't even get their product detail page right, then what else might they be mistaken about in their products. I personally would not want to skimp and cheap out on this one (ie. the transmission filter and gasket).
I agree about the questionable application of their website. Amazon Prime has free returns, so it's not a big issue if the kit doesn't fit. What I wonder about is the quality of the product. Is it comparable to the Vaico stuff that some folks are using? Or even the OEM filter that is made by Roki, Co.? Who knows?!
8-Speed Automatic Transmission Filter Service Kit
A complete service kit for your transmission
www.ecstuning.com
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This has been an excellent thread and the level of detail has been very helpful. I have not worked on my own cars for over 30 years and now that I am returning to doing simple servicing jobs I am easily confused by the level of complexity that faces me. So, I am still confused about a couple of things:
1. I understand that the ATF flows in one direction from the transmission to the cooler via one line and returns via another. I am under the impression that both lines are being disconnected in order to complete the flush. However, does this not mean that only the transmission (or the cooler, if the wrong direction is chosen) will be flushed? If I disconnect only one line, and pump the ATF into the transmission, won't the old fluid be pushed out of the tranny, into the cooler, and then out of the other end of the disconnected line, thus flushing all fluid?
2. There has been some discussion about the need to reset the transmission responses held in memory, once the new ATF is in place. A step in this process is "turn the ignition on but don't start the engine". How do I achieve this with my Australian 2012 3.0 TDI? When I turn my key (in either direction), the engine starts. There does not seem to be an "accessories" or other position.
TIA
1. I understand that the ATF flows in one direction from the transmission to the cooler via one line and returns via another. I am under the impression that both lines are being disconnected in order to complete the flush. However, does this not mean that only the transmission (or the cooler, if the wrong direction is chosen) will be flushed? If I disconnect only one line, and pump the ATF into the transmission, won't the old fluid be pushed out of the tranny, into the cooler, and then out of the other end of the disconnected line, thus flushing all fluid?
2. There has been some discussion about the need to reset the transmission responses held in memory, once the new ATF is in place. A step in this process is "turn the ignition on but don't start the engine". How do I achieve this with my Australian 2012 3.0 TDI? When I turn my key (in either direction), the engine starts. There does not seem to be an "accessories" or other position.
TIA
If you try and pump fluid into the tranny with the engine off the thermostat won’t open and the fluid won’t move through those parts. The method in this thread is disconnecting both lines and then using gravity to pull new fluid into the system while old fluid comes out into the bucket so you don’t need expensive flush equipment.
I have a keyless system so I push the button without holding down the accelerator and the vehicle won’t start. I don’t know how yours is set up but it sounds like you need to make sure your foot is not pressing the accelerator or your key assembly might be faulty.
I have a keyless system so I push the button without holding down the accelerator and the vehicle won’t start. I don’t know how yours is set up but it sounds like you need to make sure your foot is not pressing the accelerator or your key assembly might be faulty.
Thanks for the swift reply bizzle!
If I disconnect both lines and then plug my hoses into the lines that go to and from the tranny, won't I need to plug up the lines coming from the cooler?
If I only disconnect one line (say, the lines going from cooler to tranny) then I can run my new ATF into the end going to the tranny and expel the ATF coming from the cooler out into a bucket. This would mean that I can flush the ATF from both tranny and cooler.
Is there something I'm missing with this?
I understand that the engine needs to be on while doing the flush, and I understand that gravity plays a role in getting the new ATF into the system. What I am confused over is why I need to disconnect both lines.
If I disconnect both lines and then plug my hoses into the lines that go to and from the tranny, won't I need to plug up the lines coming from the cooler?
If I only disconnect one line (say, the lines going from cooler to tranny) then I can run my new ATF into the end going to the tranny and expel the ATF coming from the cooler out into a bucket. This would mean that I can flush the ATF from both tranny and cooler.
Is there something I'm missing with this?
I’m on the road and answering from the phone, but if I remember correctly the problem with the plan you’re considering is you need to bypass the cooler because of that thermostat. It won’t open so the fluid won’t flow through it. You need a special machine to get the fluid up to temp or otherwise force it open to get flow through the cooler.
Thank you bizzle, that was what I needed to be reminded about. Now I understand why both lines need to be disconnected. With the thermostat closed I expect there will be very little that will drain from those open lines during the flush. Thanks for your help! 
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Thank you --- great information. I think your diagram answered the fluid flow direction also.Sigh. Listen to drag. Yes Virginia, I believe there is a thermostat.
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It appears in your included diagram that the TOP LINE (upper) is fluid from the transmission into the Cooler.
What is the "vehicle Diagnostic checker" device referenced in the 'level check.jpg instructions in post #35?
Full name:
GULFPRIDE® SYNTHETIC Multi-Vehicle DEXRON® VI ATF
blowing dust on this.
I am looking to do that, but I would like to change the O-ring at the same time to ensure there are no leaks.
looks like 2x N90666003
I am looking to do that, but I would like to change the O-ring at the same time to ensure there are no leaks.
TRANS OIL COOLER.. 2014 Volkswagen Touareg 3.0L TDI V6 DIESEL A/T TDI R-Line Sport Utility | Scott Volkswagen, East Providence RI
2014 Volkswagen Touareg 3.0L TDI V6 DIESEL A/T TDI R-Line Sport Utility TRANS OIL COOLER. 2013-16.
parts.scottvw.com
looks like 2x N90666003
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