[renjean1]

thats correct Renjean1. You could use the above method but requires more pieces.
1-M14 fitting JIC adaptor
1-½” JIC reducer adaptor
1-coupling
1-hose clamp

With the VAS fill adapter
Remove sump plug, screw in fill adapter, fit plastic hose to fill adapter, its a snug fit so hose clamp is optional.

If you have the parts to do it without the VAS filler tube, then by all means use it.

ok but I though the filling was through the intercooler pipe( one in and one out ) ?
thanks for your answer !

 

[gazaflash]

Oh yah, Forget about that, sorry!. went off on a tangent. Yes, Fill is best done through cooler in/out pipes 12 or 13 litres and then going underneath, warm car up, shifting through D, N, R. slightly overfill through sump, 200-500ml and when temp is at 35deg C drain the excess out the sump until it stops and fit plug.
You could just refill what you took out but thats assuming that the OC8 was filled to the correct amount prior.

 

[renjean1]

Oh yah, Forget about that, sorry!. went off on a tangent. Yes, Fill is best done through cooler in/out pipes 12 or 13 litres and then going underneath, warm car up, shifting through D, N, R. slightly overfill through sump, 200-500ml and when temp is at 35deg C drain the excess out the sump until it stops and fit plug.
You could just refill what you took out but thats assuming that the OC8 was filled to the correct amount prior.

yeah thats what i was planning on doing!

 

[Sideskraft]

For sure drain the pan and check and clean your magnet and pan. Spray brake clean on the valving to clean off black oil then air pressure to dry. The magnets will tell you the health of your powertrain. Change the filter too, it is a fibre media filter (not a metal screen)... Measure the oil you take out from dropping the pan and refill with fresh oil of the same measurement.

During your flush you will see the dirty oil turn clean at around 13 liters. Once it turns clean that is as good as you will get. Do the level check at 35 deg celcius and your done. It is very easy with proper planning...

You will not get all the dirty oil out. You never will. There is around 0.7 liters in trans cooler and residual in clutch packs and solenoids. Your transmission will be happy after.

Perform a transmission adaptive learned values reset once complete through VCDS or. :. Get in car close door, ignition on (not engine running), hold accelerator pedal down for at least 10 second, ignition off, then open and close door...

Cheers

Did the flush last night and it went well excepting for the drill pump leaking from the start Performance Tool Drill Pump - W1143 | Blain's Farm & Fleet I think it leaked about a half cup through the process. As you said, the drill pump did help to speed things up rather than waiting for gravity. Tomorrow I plan to drive it a bit and then pull it in the garage to drop and clean the pan and replace the filter. The old oil was a very dark brown, one shade from black, so I'm definitely glad I made the effort (has 76K miles with unknown history).

 

[renjean1]

one more thing guys, I just wanted to make sure if the toyota oil is good ?

 

[Sideskraft]

Well I finished up with the transmission fluid service, but I ran into a major snafu. Two of the pan bolts broke off while removing the pan. The first happened much quicker than I expected, so I took my time (45 minutes) on the second one. I was able to back it out from "full tight" about five revolutions after working on it in and out and squirting PB Blaster into it at least 15 times. Once I realized that the bolt wasn't even 1/4 way out, I lost patience and ramped up the torque, and sure enough, snap. I pulled out my bolt removal kit and started drilling into the first broken bolt. It didn't take long for that bit to break off inside the bolt (major ugh), so now I was really pissed and went into it with the next side larger bit, and sure enough, that one snapped off inside too. After buying a set of Dewalt cobalt bits I pushed as hard as I could but made almost zero headway -- those are about the least aggressive bits I've ever used (returned them next day). I decided to give up on that bolt and moved to the other one, but was very careful about using a good fine punch and hitting the center of the bolt, and then very carefully (and vertically) drilling into the bolt with a very small bit, and working up four more sizes until I got to the correct diameter hole for the proper easy-out. I thanked God many times when that bolt (what was left of it) finally made it's way out. I chased the threads a few times, bought a new bolt, cleaned the pan and magnets, mounted the new gasket very carefully (everything was very carefully at this point), and slowly tightened all bolts in a criss-cross pattern and torqued them down. Remember, one of the holes still has the broken bolt so it's not pulling in the pan at that point. After following the filling instructions and checking the level at 40C, I drove it about 10 miles, and no leaks. After I've ran it another 20 miles, still no sign of leaks. This is a testament to the gasket quality and the rigidity of the oil pan (thanks VW). Changing out the front & rear diffs (Supertech synthetic 75W90) and transfer case (Rock Oil Gearaxl TF0870) fluids was a complete walk in the park by comparison. I did notice the front diff was slightly low after draining, both diff oils were pretty clean, but the transfer case oil was pretty dark. Lesson learned? Be very patient and careful when drilling the "starter hole" during a bolt extraction process. Again, big thanks to everyone who posted about their experiences with fluid changes, especially transmission. I'd do the flush again in a heartbeat -- very straightforward and actually fun! If it weren't for the broken pan bolts, that would have been quite enjoyable as well. ?

 

[gazaflash]

Sidescraft
I feel your pain.
I also broke the first bolt when I removed the transmission pan. It was not a blind hole so I drilled out the bolt and using a fluted easy out and removed the remnants of the bolt. I drilled the hole all the way through on the case and used a M8 nylon SS nut on the other side. I used SS bolts when I reinstalled the pan.

 

[Sbalutow]

Well.... here is my question. I have 105k miles on my 2013 exec 3.6 t’reg. Everything is running fine but I wanted to change the tranny fluid. I do minimal towing and mostly highway driving. I read through all of the posts and decided to check my fluid before dropping the pan.

Here is a sample of the fluid that dropped out. The specs are some dirt from taking out the plug. the fluid is clean but definitely dark and I can smell some varnish like smell.
Would you guys leave it alone or maybe drop the filter and change a few liters. I have the Fabi fluid and filter already but don’t know if it worth the risk. Thoughts?

 

[gazaflash]

Change it, but change the full amount (12L). If you haven’t done it before, then read up first, it’s not just a case of drain and refill. Best to go through the cooler pipes.

 

[Sideskraft]

Change it, but change the full amount (12L). If you haven’t done it before, then read up first, it’s not just a case of drain and refill. Best to go through the cooler pipes.

I agree, as it's really not that difficult. Personally I think a "fluid exchange" does more than dropping the pan and replacing the filter, especially when you consider the risk of pan bolts shearing off like happened to me. Doing both is obviously the best, but each owner has to make their own decision based on their comfort level.

 

[Sbalutow]

I agree, as it's really not that difficult. Personally I think a "fluid exchange" does more than dropping the pan and replacing the filter, especially when you consider the risk of pan bolts shearing off like happened to me. Doing both is obviously the best, but each owner has to make their own decision based on their comfort level.

I guess I am not as concerned about the actual changing of the fluid. I think I can handle that. I am more concerned about the damage it could cause. I have read a couple of posts where there is a concern about changing old fluid or fluid that is varnished and it leads to clutch pack or valve body failure. I think the concern is greater in a flush vs. dropping the pan and changing the filter.

 

[renjean1]

Hi everyone,
So from this webiste : TR80SD Transmission parts, repair guidelines, problems, manuals
We can see toyota and vw share the same vw.

"This transmission was installed on Audi Q7 equipped with diesel engines V6-V8 from 3 liter capacity, and the torque capacity over 700 Nm. The same trasnmission design adapted for off-road Lexus cars has been used since 2007 under the name AA80E\F. "

So I think I'll go with Toyota ATF WS
Unless you guys know something I'm not aware !
The problem is here in quebec , the dealer charge 56$ per liter so I need to find an alternative

Volkswagen/Audi Pièce nº G 055 540 (A2) and Toyota/Lexus Type WS always show in the same oil

Thank you all !

 

[Gabs14Trg]

I went with the Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 20 liter pail from Rock Auto (German Made VW pn# G 055 540 A2 Spec).

Mine has 160.000km on the clock and I am planning to flush it too.
How is your tranny operating with the Top Tec atf? I am considering using either Ravenol WS-T or LiquiMoly Toptec 1800.

Gabriel

 

[funbard]

Mine has 160.000km on the clock and I am planning to flush it too.
How is your tranny operating with the Top Tec atf? I am considering using either Ravenol WS-T or LiquiMoly Toptec 1800.

Gabriel

The Top Tec 1800 is quality OE synthetic oil and is working great in my T-reg. Remember to do a transmission learned parameter reset after the flush.

 

[Gabs14Trg]

Yesterday I ordered all the parts: Liquimoly TopTec 1800 plus Vaico filter gasket and o-ring kit. It is meant to arrive sometime next week.
With regards to dropping the pan, is there enough room to work underneath the touareg with the suspension raised to the uppermost position or is it advisable to lift it on ramps or even on a proper lift?
As for replenishing the ATF, I have got a M10x1 fitting handy. Is it the correct size for the filling plug thread?

 

[Gabs14Trg]

This morning I carried out the transmission flush using an atf pressure pump, VCDS and a VAS fitting. However, I used a different approach:
1) Drained the tranny through the drain hole in the pan, first without removing the riser tube, and later, removing it.
2) Removed the pan and poured away the fluid stored in the pan.
3) Removed the filter and poured away the fluid stored in the filter and valve body.
4) Cleaned the magnets and the pan and installed the new gasket.
5) Installed the new filter.
6) Reassembled the pan with the riser tube hand tightened.
7) Filled the transmission with 7 liters of atf through the drain hole using the VAS fitting and the pump.
8) Undid the atf cooler lines at the front.
9) Started the engine, flushed 2 liters of atf, stoped the engine and refilled 2 liters through the drain hole at a time until clear atf came out. It took aproximately 9 liters.
10) Refited the front lines with new o-rings.
11) Started the engine and shifted through all the gears. Then I waited ultil the atf temperature reached 35ºC.
12) Removed the quick connect coupling of the atf pump and as no atf was dripping out of the pan, I added 1 more liter to top the transmission up. Again, no atf was dripping so added 1 more liter.
13) Undid the quick connect coupling and, that time, atf was backflowing, so I removed the VAS filling tool, let the atf drain until it was dripping and refited the drain plug with a new seal.
All in all, it took me about four hours without rushing and used 17l of Liqui Moly Toptec 1800 atf. Both the gasket and filter were Vaico.
After 155.000km on the clock, the magnets and the filter were dirty, so I would advise anyone with this mileage not only to flush, but to replace the filter and clean the magnets. The atf was as dark as black coffee, so obviously it needed replacing.
Working underneath the Touareg is tight, but doable at home without ramps setting the suspension to the highest level. The filling pump was very convenient and other than when removing the pan, the process was not messy at all.
Thanks everybody for your contribution!

Gabriel

 

[Gnits]

Working underneath the Touareg is tight, but doable at home without ramps setting the suspension to the highest level.

Just make sure you put jacks under the body, because theoretically the suspension could fail any time, especially if you're messing around on the underside of the body near the compressor, and might inadvertedly damage something or cause a short circuit or whatever - and when that happens you don't want to be under the car with no jacks holding it up.

 

[Gabs14Trg]

Just make sure you put jacks under the body, because theoretically the suspension could fail any time

Indeed. Your remark is greatly appreciated.
I forgot to mention that I placed four jack stands, one on each corner of the longitudinal members of the chassis.

 

[renjean1]

For checking the level , I just want to make sure that when I’ll twist the drain plug, it won’t empty the pan . Does all tranny come with the tube inside for the level ? Thanks !
btw I did it trough the inter cooler and it took 15 liters before the oil became red like the new one . So, I put 15 liters in and had 15 liters out

 

[Gabs14Trg]

I think they all come with the raiser.
If the tranny is not topped up, just a little amount would come out, whereas if it is properly filled you will see a continous flow of atf. In any case remember to check the level at aproximately 35°C.