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So it takes quite a long time. Almost 2 hours for the fill/reservoir bucket to catch up. I used 12 liters of Ravenol T-WS Lifetime Full synthetic.

I have advice for future DIYers of the T3. First, wear crap clothes, I did, haha.. Threw them away afterwards.

Second, somehow put a siphon bulb in the 1/2 inch vinyl tubing between the supply bucket and the in-feed line of the transmission line. This would EXTREMELY speed the "fluid charging" process!! After every start cycle of the engine, pump about 2 liters, then kill the engine. Then a siphon bulb would be great at pumping 2 liter back into the transmission. The 12 liter change would be done in 20 minutes TOPS.

As I can now attest, the fluid can only gravity feed, period, there is no suction whatsoever on that transmission line. The output side absolutely gushes quickly, have a helper and don't pump out more than 2 liters at a time. This is how I did it.

I got exactly 12 liters into my used bucket, and 12 liters in. For whatever reason, it NEVER ran "new" fluid in the outflow tube. I suspect because my helper was rowing through R-N-D-N-R-P and shutdown , we may have gotten a lot of fluid out of the torque converter as well. I recommend 14 L of tranny fluid to be sure of a full change. Next time, I will do a pan drop at about 160,000 miles and also change the plastic filter and gasket, clean the pan and magnets, and pre-fill the pan with the old fluid, then perform the complete system flush.


I will have to source the VAS fill tube tool, just to be sure at later date, because there is no way for me to fill without it. I
I just done this with Ravenol T-WS lifetime, works great.
 

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New T3 owner here, posting to say THANK YOU to everyone who contributed to this thread; all the various takes, layouts, input, and feedback on this transmission fluid change procedure were very helpful. You can see my intro post here with details on my recent purchase of a 2013 Lux TDI: https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/new-owner-of-a-2013-t3-tdi-in-ohio.290684/

With 92,xxx miles on my recently acquired 2013 TDI, I knew it needed a trans fluid swap. No hitch on this T3 (yet, I'll be installing one), so at least the "lifetime" factory fluid likely didn't see heavy load conditions. I used the VW factory fluid (G 055 540 A2), which hurt the wallet to the tune of ~$25/L for 13L, or roughly $350 after tax, but I needed the do the change before a 1200mi road trip and the VW fluid was readily available, vs unknown time for the Ravenol ATF T-WS. Presuming I do another fluid change, I'll probably plan ahead and use Ravenol.

I put the new fluid bucket on my ~4' tall workbench, connected the 1/2" PVC tubing to the cooler lines, and put the discharge into an empty bucket. Here's where I made a stupid decision, and hopefully others can learn from my mistake: I hooked everything up, filled the new bucket with 13L of new fluid while it was sitting on my workbench, then realized it was mid-day and I wanted to eat something before starting the exchange process; I didn't close off the feed line, didn't think about physics of fluid, and went into my house for about 45 minutes to eat some lunch. Came out to find the NEW bucket was down to 3L left in it and NOTHING in the waste bucket, meaning 10L excess had filled into the trans and fluid was pouring out from under the vehicle covering my garage floor. Amidst the shock and panic, I clamped the line and had my wife start the engine to evacuate fluid; pumped out 9L, shut it off, then started the arduous clean-up process while cursing myself into oblivion for being so foolish. What a mess it was; after mopping up all the fluid on the floor and getting a catch pan under it, I spent HOURS wiping everything down on the transmission, trying to clean off as much as possible. My best assessment is that ~1L of excess fluid escaped the transmission housing through what appears to be a breather tube at the top, then proceeded to seep down the driver's side of the transmission housing, creating a royal mess.

Lesson is that the transmission housing has lots of open volume, therefore if you put 13L of fluid in a bucket connected to the system and have that bucket higher than the transmission, the fluid will indeed behave according to simply physics and fill the open space. Don't do what I did; once you have everything hooked up, either do the fluid exchange right away, or clamp the line. My recommendation would definitely be to NOT leave the setup unattended, I certainly won't make that mistake again.

Anyway, after cleaning, we finished the fluid change with the remaining new fluid. After finishing everything up, I did a short test drive and it appeared to be functioning normally, but to be safe and to ensure the level was correct, I took it to a local independent VW shop. They checked everything out, said they didn't see any issues, checked the trans fluid level in accordance with VW procedure and ended up adding ~1L, then test drove and found no issues. Since the change, we took the vehicle on a 1200mi road trip to NJ & back, plus a few day trips over 100mi each, and all seems well.
 

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Lots of good information. Thanks to everyone that contributed. I have one question. For checking the oil level after the flush/fill the standpipe that was originally in the oil pan is the correct one to gauge the correct level? Where do you use the VAS6262-2? How do you push the oil into the pan?
 

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1) Unscrew the plug in the bottom of the pan.
2) Screw in the VAS6262-2 in the inner hole where you took the plug out of.
3) start the car and let it idle. Tranny temp should be around 35 deg C to get the correct level.
4) connect soft hose to VAS6262-2 and fill slowly.
5) remove soft hose and let any excess fluid drain out of the VAS6262-2
6) when no more excess fluid drains out, the fluid level is correct.
7) shut engine off
8) remove VAS6262-2
9) fit plug and torque to correct spec
Note: if tranny temp exceeds 40deg C, stop the engine and let it cool enough.
 

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One quick note about fluids.
I opted for Ravenol T-WS Lifetime fluid. It works great but I suspect that the viscosity is slightly thicker. Possibly good in a European environment or Southen states. At -20 deg C as it is where I live the tranny does seem a bit sluggish on when moving off from cold. Once it warms slightly, it shifts like it should. I can’t find any info on what the centistokes is compared to OEM.
 

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I can get Pentosin synthetic ATF which is G055540A2 spec shipped to Canada through Rock Auto at not a bad price. The specs are below... Does it have a better cold weather viscosity than Ravenol?:
Size5 Liter
Density at 20C845 kg/m³
Dynamic Viscosity at 40C"6,800 mPa*s"
Flash Point>206°C/>402°F
Kinematic Viscosity at 100C5.6 mm²/s
Kinematic Viscosity at 20C64 mm²/s
Kinematic Viscosity at 40C25.3 mm²/s
Pour Point-54°C/-65.2°F
ColorRED AND CLEAR
HazardousNo
PackagingBottle
Keep from FreezingNo
 

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I completed the trans flush yesterday. There was lots of great info from all the contributors over the past years and I wanted to help by summarizing the job. I changed the oil at 185,000 km and the oil needed to be replaced. I tow a trailer every once and while but most of the driving was highway. From now on I will stick with a 160,000 km interval.
I went with the Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 20 liter pail from Rock Auto (German Made VW pn# G 055 540 A2 Spec). To start drain the pan and clean the magnets first. Go with the Vaico V102284 filter from Rock Auto (the Wix WL10381 I bought did not fit, and I had to buy a VW one from the dealership for $205) The OEM trans filter is a Roki Co Ltd PA66-GF33 made in Japan (VW pn# 0C8325435) and is a fiber media/metal screen filter. Definitely change the filter... The magnets had a bit of fine metallic and needed to be cleaned. The pan gasket is high quality nitrile and can be re-used. Just clean it 100% and put a small amount of high temp RTV silicone to help the seal. This saved me $175 CDN Measure in vs out oil and fill the pan with fresh oil (5.5 liters came out for me) and then start the flush on the front end.
235609


Confirmed that the PVC hoses needed are 1/2" with the help of some hose clamps and that the top trans cooler hose is dirty oil out and bottom hose is for clean oil going in. Very little oil will come out of the hoses when you open them. Have some cardboard ready as a deflector so you dont get all your panelling full of oil. If you are Canadian, Princess Auto has metered 5 gallon pails (found this out after I made my own). They also have a SS drill pump that worked very well. I completed the trans flush in a few minutes and had in vs. out oil stay very consistent. Clean oil started to flush out at around 12-13 liters.
235606

235608
Amazon and Ebay have the VAS-6262/2 trans fill adaptor for cheap. You will need this to final check the oil level.
Final oil check. If you have VCDS you need to get your trans oil temp to 35 C to check. Start T-reg and cycle between P/R/N/D fr 2 seconds each to make sure all the clutch packs and solenoids fill. Then when your vehicle is completely LEVEL and trans oil is at 35 degrees Celsius pull out the trans pan drain plug. A bit of oil in the tube will come out. If no more comes out add about 0.5 liter till there is a bit of overflow from the pan stand pipe. If still no oil add another 0.5 liter. After the oil comes out of the standpipe to a drip the level is correct.
235610

It is very easy to complete this job and with the right planning you can do it. The VW dealership quoted $1200 CDN to drop the pan and change the filter and oil. That is only changing 1/3 of the oil. I hate dealerships.
 

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Thanks for all of the great detailed explanations everyone. Funbard, did you use the drill pump to "pressure flush" the transmission while the engine was off, or did you start the engine and use the drill pump only to speed up the incoming fluid flow? I just purchased this pump thinking that I might be able to "power flush" the trans fluid w/o the starting the engine. If the engine must be running, I'm sure it would be able to keep up with the trans pump. https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pumps-tanks/utility-sump-pumps/barracuda-pumps-reg-12-volt-battery-powered-transfer-pump/90047/p-1504247253410.htm

Also, I don't get the purpose of the VAS 6262/2 Trans Fill Adapter. I was planning to put a piece of that stiff nylon tubing up through the hole in the fluid level insert and use a 1 gallon pump sprayer to get the fluid up there. If that won't work, I guess I'm not understanding things.
 

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Use the drill pump to feed clean oil into the T-reg. You can watch the dirty oil outflow to match the rate of in vs out. Your transmission pump is actually fairly slow to discharge into bucket, you will get the hang of the speed you need to pump in clean oil by watching your buckets (trust me)

You will need to have engine started and running to have your transmission oil flowing through the pump, valving, torque converter, etc

Your drill pump also works great for pumping in the clean oil into your pan for getting the proper level. The VAS 6262/2 is very cheap online and I recommend it. I put a piece of 3/8 (10mm) PVC inside my 1/2 (12mm) PVC on my drill pump and connected the 3/8 PVC right on the VAS 6262/2 adapter. There was no mess and all you have to do is reverse drill pump to see if oil will come into hose from the overlow. You can go with pvc hose or whatever you want. If you dont have the adapter it will be messier than having the right fill tool...

One note is that make sure you have your transmission pan plug is in if you shut off the vehicle. You will have a proper pan level with the engine running but if you turn off the engine and have plug out you will have oil coming out of the overflow tube in pan and on the floor. ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING FOR FILL CHECKING AND FLUSHING THE OIL...
 

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Thanks a bunch funbard -- what you explained makes perfect sense. I went ahead and ordered the VAS 6262/2 from Ebay. I do have one question about the oil exchange process. Is there any advantage to dropping the pan before the flush as opposed to dropping the pan after the flush? I'm thinking that if there is new fluid in the pan, it will need to be flushed out with the old fluid to get it all out. I can see there being old fluid "behind" the new pan fluid. If this is true, it would make more sense to drop the pan AFTER the flush, then reuse the new fluid that is in the pan. I'm suggesting this assuming that the trans filter will be changed and the pan and magnets cleaned. Otherwise there would be no reason to drop the pan -- a flush would suffice. What say you?
 

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For anyone who don't want to spend the money for a fill tool. You could fill 1 liter more than what came out, then put everything back. Then do the level check procedure - when the temperature is at 35C and engine running, open the level check bolt, once oil start to become a tiny stream, screw back the bolt.

put a bucket underneath to catch the overflow.
 

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Thanks a bunch funbard -- what you explained makes perfect sense. I went ahead and ordered the VAS 6262/2 from Ebay. I do have one question about the oil exchange process. Is there any advantage to dropping the pan before the flush as opposed to dropping the pan after the flush? I'm thinking that if there is new fluid in the pan, it will need to be flushed out with the old fluid to get it all out. I can see there being old fluid "behind" the new pan fluid. If this is true, it would make more sense to drop the pan AFTER the flush, then reuse the new fluid that is in the pan. I'm suggesting this assuming that the trans filter will be changed and the pan and magnets cleaned. Otherwise there would be no reason to drop the pan -- a flush would suffice. What say you?

For sure drain the pan and check and clean your magnet and pan. Spray brake clean on the valving to clean off black oil then air pressure to dry. The magnets will tell you the health of your powertrain. Change the filter too, it is a fibre media filter (not a metal screen)... Measure the oil you take out from dropping the pan and refill with fresh oil of the same measurement.

During your flush you will see the dirty oil turn clean at around 13 liters. Once it turns clean that is as good as you will get. Do the level check at 35 deg celcius and your done. It is very easy with proper planning...

You will not get all the dirty oil out. You never will. There is around 0.7 liters in trans cooler and residual in clutch packs and solenoids. Your transmission will be happy after.

Perform a transmission adaptive learned values reset once complete through VCDS or. :. Get in car close door, ignition on (not engine running), hold accelerator pedal down for at least 10 second, ignition off, then open and close door...

Cheers
 

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Amazon and Ebay have the VAS-6262/2 trans fill adaptor for cheap. You will need this to final check the oil level.
I though it was already install in the pan ? so we need to install the adaptor before doing everything, meaning that we need to drop the pan ?
 

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Nope. Take the sump plug out and screw in the fill adaptor in a smaller internal thread. the green tube sticking up in a previous picture stays there. I made a sketch but can’t seem to get it to my laptop!
 

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OK, have a look at the sketch. This might explain why there is a filler required, the level of fluid, sump plug, etc...
Ok from what I understand its only a tool to help to fill through the plug ?
like this post ?
Preparations are underway. Couple clean buckets with measurements and for $26 I made myself a VAG6262 to top off the tranny and check the level.
236313
 

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thats correct Renjean1. You could use the above method but requires more pieces.
1-M14 fitting JIC adaptor
1-½” JIC reducer adaptor
1-coupling
1-hose clamp

With the VAS fill adapter
Remove sump plug, screw in fill adapter, fit plastic hose to fill adapter, its a snug fit so hose clamp is optional.

If you have the parts to do it without the VAS filler tube, then by all means use it.
 
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