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Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
before


I am not too happy about the rear camber.
Um something's not right there. Mine went back to within spec at 2 times the drop and we have the same vehicle. The before and after camber didn't change on the rear at all, only the toe, caster and camber on the front. Speaking of caster how did they make that worse? Are you sure that shop knows what they are doing? I dont have a before unfortunately but I can tell you that in the rear my outer most tread blocks were not touching the ground at all. Whereas now they are. So I know the camber has been moved a good degree or two. The fact that they are writing on the paper kind of tells me they didn't know how to adjust it. I dunno. I do know that I marked with a punch the location of the 4 lower control arm cam bolts before alignment so I know how far the tech moved them. And he pulled the arms in almost to max. Just my .02
 

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The shop that did the alignment is not the same that installed the suspension. Apparently the bolts/sleeves were jammed so they couldn't adjust the rear camber. I can understand that.

what pisses me off is that they didn't provided me the alignement sheet, even if I asked. The machine ran out of paper, cannot be printed again. So I told them fine, bring the car back I want to see it... and oh sweet baby Jesus there is a miracle they found it. and only THEN I realize the camber is off in the back, things are apparently seized. (I haven't check myself yet)

Now I am torn between getting back there and tell them to do their job, or never going back at all and get it fixed elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
The shop that did the alignment is not the same that installed the suspension. Apparently the bolts/sleeves were jammed so they couldn't adjust the rear camber. I can understand that.

what pisses me off is that they didn't provided me the alignement sheet, even if I asked. The machine ran out of paper, cannot be printed again. So I told them fine, bring the car back I want to see it... and oh sweet baby Jesus there is a miracle they found it. and only THEN I realize the camber is off in the back, things are apparently seized. (I haven't check myself yet)

Now I am torn between getting back there and tell them to do their job, or never going back at all and get it fixed elsewhere.
Ok that makes sense. Personally I would break the 4 lower bolts loose yourself. Just soak the crap out of them for a day or two then see if you can move them. If you can then you can talk to the same shot and have them do it or go somewhere else amd have another shop do it.
 

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The rear adjustments commonly seize on these, but I wouldn't accept that for being okay
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)

So I need
2x bushings #2 7L0407183A
2x bolts #3 WHT004887
2x nut #4 WHT006410

Do I need bolt #24? (WHT001834)
or bolt #8? WHT001833
The rear camber is adjusted with the lower bolts only. If you look at #9 in the diagram above it is the cam that moves the lower arm in or out. When it comes to correcting the camber back there they need to be pulled in towards the center of the vehicle. So before ordering I would soak them in pb blaster or some penetrating oil and see it you can get them to move. I would assume that if you van get all 4 to move you should be able to pull the lower half of the tire in towards the center. That way the toe won't be altered. See the pictures below from my passenger side. The front lower arm has punch marks and the rear has paint marks.

246258
246259
246257
 

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So from that I only need the eccentric bolt #8, cam #9 and nut #10. 4 of each, 2 per side.

but first I'll do pen marks and soak them out to see if they can move. What I don't understand then is what sleeve is the mechanic referring to? if it is sleeve #2, then the nut isn't even eccentric and can't change the alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
So from that I only need the eccentric bolt #8, cam #9 and nut #10. 4 of each, 2 per side.

but first I'll do pen marks and soak them out to see if they can move. What I don't understand then is what sleeve is the mechanic referring to? if it is sleeve #2, then the nut isn't even eccentric and can't change the alignment.
Just back off the nut on 1 side till its flush with the end of the bolt. That will leave a gap on the nut side. Then take a BFH and hit it square on the nut side and knock it loose. Once loose take the BFH and knock it back in from the bolt side being careful not to round off the bolt. It should then turn. The bolt side controls the eccentric, the nut just locks it in place. I would be surprised of it didn't turn once loosened honestly.
 

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update after a few weeks with the new setup. The suspension is definitely stiffer, comfort level is still very acceptable but not as comfy as OEM on older damper.

The suspension settle a bit, final height is approx 2 5/8in between tire and fender (tires are at wear limit), dead even on all 4 corners.That same measurement on the same tire was 4 1/4in before, so drop approx 1 5/8in.To each is own, but to me this is the best compromise between comfort/look/performance considering the Touareg size.

In a perfect world I would take an extra 5mm for spacers (15mm F, 20mm R); but it is not worth replacing. I got a new set of Pirelli scorpion verde 275/45r20 ready to get mounted, looking forward for that. I am still debating if I should re-paint the wheels (still in black) as 2 of them have some light curb rash.

All in all, I recommend the B12 kit. About the same price of the Ceika if you add the top plates.

however, with the Ceika Sport you can change ride height/damping and on top you can order it to your likings.
I am very curious to see how the Ceika twin springs compares to the Eibach progressive springs.
 

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I have H&Rs with Bilstein B6s on my 2014 R-Line. The Spring/Strut combo improved the ride significantly. Dropped it a pretty significant amount over stock.

If you want coilovers, I would look at more reputable brands such as KW, Bilstein, etc. I believe, someone needs to correct me though, that Cayenne 2011-2018 suspension parts should fit. The Bilstein B6s were universal across Cayenne (2011-2018) & Touareg (2011-2017). I'm not sure if the strut top hats/plates are different across the platforms though.

Looking into it now, I may have tried BC Racing Coilovers.

View attachment 243706
Do you know if the lower front bumper of the R-Line touareg (your model) willl fit the non R-Line touareg of the same pre facelift year? if so, where could I get it
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
update after a few weeks with the new setup. The suspension is definitely stiffer, comfort level is still very acceptable but not as comfy as OEM on older damper.

The suspension settle a bit, final height is approx 2 5/8in between tire and fender (tires are at wear limit), dead even on all 4 corners.That same measurement on the same tire was 4 1/4in before, so drop approx 1 5/8in.To each is own, but to me this is the best compromise between comfort/look/performance considering the Touareg size.

In a perfect world I would take an extra 5mm for spacers (15mm F, 20mm R); but it is not worth replacing. I got a new set of Pirelli scorpion verde 275/45r20 ready to get mounted, looking forward for that. I am still debating if I should re-paint the wheels (still in black) as 2 of them have some light curb rash.

All in all, I recommend the B12 kit. About the same price of the Ceika if you add the top plates.

however, with the Ceika Sport you can change ride height/damping and on top you can order it to your likings.
I am very curious to see how the Ceika twin springs compares to the Eibach progressive springs.
With how heavy these things are I'm not sure we need the dual spring setup. I'd be surprised if they were doing anything TBH. Set the preload correctly and I doubt I'd notice the difference if I was on a single vs double. In saying that I'm glad I have the dual incase they are doing something. But as it sits the small spring is fully compressed. They only come into play at near full droop.
 

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Still happy with the setup? The Eibach has a progressive spring rate which has a comparable effect than the dual springs on yours.
Very happy with my ride. It feels & look perfect to my tastes, no issues with ground clearance in the snow so far too. In doubt, I am just a bit generous with the go pedal! haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Still happy with the setup? The Eibach has a progressive spring rate which has a comparable effect than the dual springs on yours.
Very happy with my ride. It feels & look perfect to my tastes, no issues with ground clearance in the snow so far too. In doubt, I am just a bit generous with the go pedal! haha
Yeah I'm happy so far. The ride is a bit bouncy when cold, and a bit clunky (rear is quite stiff for towing). But I haven't backed off the damper setting from this summer so I'd like to try that. Its not bad at all. Certainly stiffer than stock. I really notice over frost heaves or expansion joints where its a sharp bump. Other than that no complaints considering its a full fledged coilover in the Winter. In other words they're doing very well when not in they're element. For comparison my Son's mk6 GLI on an H&R cup kit which is not a full coilover with adjustable height, preload, and adjustable damping. Is worse over sharp bumps but not as bouncy. Still more than an acceptable ride IMO.
 

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Just an update on my B12 kit. This is how it sits at the moment. I would say approx 3/4in drop over R-line. Ride is marvelous. My ideal would have been 3/4 to 1in lower, but I am still pleased with the look considering the vehicle size and purpose. I would call it OEM+ fitment (except for the black wheels)

Less diving under cornering yet still very comfortable. My ride being a 2014, just a shock refresh (even OEM) would have make a difference. Combined with the lower springs and I think the Bilstein B6 are superior than OEM... I am very pleased with the result.
Looks great... Still holding up well? Has it settled any lower? Thanks
 

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As someone mentioned above, the big GTI look. Lowered with Scale Suspension Coilovers. I have been running these for about 17 months. They ride great. Wheels are 22"x10" with 295/35/22 tires. No off roading, but fun street driving!

You can find them here.

They are based in eastern Canada, so no border fees or wait times.

View attachment 244581
As someone mentioned above, the big GTI look. Lowered with Scale Suspension Coilovers. I have been running these for about 17 months. They ride great. Wheels are 22"x10" with 295/35/22 tires. No off roading, but fun street driving!

You can find them here.

They are based in eastern Canada, so no border fees or wait times.

View attachment 244581
Love the look of yours. Could you tell me where you bought the wheels and the specs? Thanks
 
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