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Can anyone confirm anything about the heated part of the steering wheel? I too have a Lux with no heated steering wheel looking to upgrade to paddle/heated wheel, and am wondering if its possible to enable it or not.
Thanks
first of all, thanks for OP and everyone contributed here. You guys are awesome!

Now, I can confirm you that it is not plug n play.

Mine is Lux too, I purchased a heated one thinking even if my car does not support it, it will have a higher resale value. I installed it today, and unfortunately there isn't a socket for the heater cable on the steering column.

Retrofitting might need some work like it used to be on the T1 and T2. We might need a different control module and some steering and information center tweaks and some calibration for ABS in VCDS, I'd also check swivel headlight after change of that control module... seems like too much work. I will just keep using my gloves for now.

Also for people who are looking for a brown steering wheel, you may be disappointed to hear this. Since paddle shifter only comes with R Line, and R Line only comes with black interior. It is very likely that there simply isn't a brown&shifter combination. (Pure speculation, not confirm by VW or knowledgeable people) I'm using a black steering wheel with brown airbag. I will post some pictures in the next few days, it doesn't look too bad IMO.

FYI, for cars without heated socket, the new code I used is "000035".
 

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Here's the photo, haven't had a sunny day yet... looks a little bit odd, but acceptable :D
I can trade this look with the paddles;) Coming from a manual car, that delayed kickdown always turns me off. 3 quick tap to get into the power band is just so much better.
 

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Love the idea of paddle shifters...enjoy them on my Citroen (probably need them given how their diesel engines are built). But really doubt I would use them on a 8-speed settings + Sports mode.
Maybe when time and money decide to ring some bells in me ;)
The shifting logic of S Mode is decent on merging lanes, etc, I still use it now when I'm super lazy at the end of the day.

But 8 speed on paddles is manageable, still a lot less work than a 6mt. It's amazing how far auto transmissions have improved on both response and economy.

The thing that made the decision to install the paddles is driving on snow when a slight touch on the brake would lock the wheels. I find myself constantly shifting up using the shift lever whenever I wanted to go down a gear for some engine brake...
 

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So after some patience, I found a used OEM wheel with paddles. It is black, and just a normal wheel, no r-line, no heating, etc. Only paddles.

I ended up winning the bid on ebay for... $10... :eek:
But $32 for shipping due to it being from Sweden and it should be here a few weeks. I am very excited and still surprised I actually won the auction. I will post up pics of mine installed once it arrives.
wut, I cannot believe this!
But good job! Even with shipping, the price is fantastic!
 

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Finally got mine in and just finished the install. My wheel ended up having the heating function too, didn't realize it until I got it. Nowhere for the heated harness to plug into though as someone else had said.

Install went well. I broke a little tab on the back of the airbag, one of the spring things, but I was able to push the white clip into the wheel and get the spring part to stay on airbag so it went back together perfect. Airbag did not want to come off the old wheel. Oh well, minor incident and it still works properly.

One quick check mark in the steering wheel section of vag com and they were enabled.

Now to get paddle extensions...
congrats! You got a very good deal! The white tab on the back of the airbag is probably the horn switch, but you still get other 3 keeping the contacts separated, so might not be a big issue.
 

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1. Click once

2. Leave the gear lever in d/s, the transmission will go back to auto if the car thinks you are cruising thus don't need fast acceleration after a set time, which has different algorithms in D or S. It goes back to auto quicker in D than in S. It also stays in "manual" mode while braking, even past that set time, anticipating acceleration. To manually get back to auto mode, just flip the gear lever to the manual side then back.
 

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Found another way to tell the car go back to automatic. Hold + for 3 seconds, it will return to auto. It's slower than using the shift knob, but this is more subtle.

Also, I'm trying to retrofit heated steering wheel on my Lux. I bought my steering wheel with heating elements. But the clock spring does not have a port to plug into. I'm wondering if I can change just the clock spring from 4H0953568F to 4H0953568H since I don't want to change the steering module 7P6953507L, which may involve re-calibrating the ABS module.

A new clock spring would give me the pins the heater needs and I would just need to bypass factory wires and get the power directly from fuse #11.

I'm going to test if module 7P6953507L is capable of showing the steering wheel heating icon on RNS850. This may allow me to control fuse slot #11, which is the power to the heated steering wheel in a "factory like" fashion even it's getting power directly from fuse box. If 7P6953507L cannot be coded this way, then I will just put an external button to control the heater...

more to come...
 

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So coded HVAC, RNS850 does let me put an icon on there, but I'm not sure if it can control current at fuse #11 on Lux models. Don't have a multimeter with me at work, will do a test tonight.

Apparently VCDS tells me coding is out of range when I changed coding on Channel 16, as expected. Will see how it reacts with a new clock spring.

But looking at owners with heated steering wheels complaining how slow the climate menu pops up in the morning, I'm open to the idea of hardwiring it to the car and putting an SPST switch somewhere on the dash then call it a day.

Will start another thread.
 

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yuyueyuyue Did you ever figure out how to get the heated wheel to work. I have just installed the DSG and Heated wheel along with the clock spring ending in H which should add the power to the wheel for heat. I have activated Heated Steering wheel with VAG-COM on both steering wheel -16 module and Auto HVAC. This brings up the Heated Wheel Button on the Climate control in the RNS. This is my problem: As soon as I turn on the heated wheel I blow fuse # 8 (Tire pressure monitoring control module -J502- Electronic steering column lock control module -J764- Steering column electronics control module -J527-) on the Drivers side panel. It came from the factory with a 5 AMP fuse, however I looked at this diagram and it says fuse # 8 should be a 10 AMP. Also, I do not have a fuse # 11, it is missing. What have you determined needs to be done after installing the right parts and coded correctly? ANy help will be much appreciated. -Chris
Hi Chris,

Sorry to hear this. But you are quick :)

No, I haven't installed mine. Just moved into a new house, spending every second doing remodeling. I find this is a great way to stop me from spending more money on the treg, lol.

I bought the H clock spring too, it's hiding in one of the moving boxes...

With that being said, I think I know the solution to this. You will need to run external power to the heater pins on the back of the clock spring. Hardwire to fuse #11. Without power going to the heater pins, it will just draw power from the wrong place. I did some continuity tests on the leads and turns out the heater pins on the back and the front of the clock spring are not directly connected. They are controlled by IC boards. This explains the blown fuse on other modules, and proves that I can't simply put a SPST switch on the dashboard as I won't be able to control the heater that way.

Not sure if I explained myself clearly. Simply put, connect the 2 pins on the back of the clock spring. Positive to fuse 11, negative to chassis.

I will post some pics to better explain myself, you might also need to buy some connector for a "factory "look.

Btw, did you need to re-calibrate you steering angle sensor for the new clock spring?
 

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In regards to your question, yes the clock spring has to be recalibrated.

I used the Ross Tech wiki instructions.

Very easy, let me know if you need help.
Thanks Chris

The fuse diagram I'm looking at shows 10a for #8, 15a for #11.

But on my car, I also have 5a for #8.

I'm not 100% sure on the size of the connector pins, let me check
 

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Are you sure you're looking at the correct specs? Every VW reference points to 50nm or 37lb/ft.
I do see 50nm being mentioned in the doc, but that's referring to the minimum spec of the torque wrench that should be used.

I'm not sure if I can post the pdf here for copy right concerns, so I'm attaching a screenshot.

I just swapped my slip ring today adding heating function to my LUX. Tested 30nm, then a quarter turn on top on that. I did not know how much 30nm+90degree will be before the swap, but it turns out that's about 47nm.
 

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