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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It was the information in these threads that convinced me to do all 4 brakes on my 2012 T3 TDI.

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/replaced-front-brakes-on-my-t3-204649.html

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f44/2013-tdi-execline-rear-brakes-202105-2.html



I got the brake rotors and pads as a kit from IDparts.com and the wear sensors and the hardware kit (new pins, new spring clips) from RockAuto. All in all well under $500 in parts. I re-used the caliper bolts when two dealerships had none in stock (indicating that this is what THEY do...)

I am not talking about how to safely jack up your Touareg - you need to know this before attempting to work under it....

The fronts are straightforward.

Turn wheel your way. Remove pins with suitable punch and hammer, remove spring clip, use big screwdriver on the old pads to fully compress pistons, take old pads out, remove allen screw that holds the rigid and flexible brake lines, remove rotor screw, remove caliper bolts and hang caliper out of the way, remove rotor (hit it with a steel hammer to bounce it loose if it does not want to budge; hit both sides and around the hub).
Spray clean caliper with brake clean, use drill and wire brush to thorougly clean hub from rust and dirt and mount new rotor (after cleaning and wiping its friction surfaces with brake cleaner; I use anti seize on the little rotor bolt). Put caliper back on (I put anti-seize on the end of the thread), insert new pads (I put anti seize on the back plate where the pistons will contact the back plate), insert new upper pin, insert new spring clip, insert new lower pin. Hammer pins into place. Connect new wear sensor to pad(s) (the thick part of the little wear sensor end is on the same side as the friction material on the pad). My old wear sensors had only one pad end, the new ones had two - no drama, they all fit and are easy to figure out. Either one will work. Put allen screw back to attach brake line/hose. Torque caliper bolts to 270Nm if not done already. Wire brush inside of rim where it contacts the rotor. Put wheel back on and torque wheel bolts to 154 Nm (133 ft lbs). Pump brake pedal to settle pads and move to the other side. Easy-peasy!

Go check the brake fluid reservoir...if it is close to full already, you may have to turkey-baste some fluid out before doing the rears. Do not tell the wife that you used her turkey baster. Buy a new one later and secretly.

The rears:
Parking brake OFF, key in the ignition, transmission in Park, "auto hold" off (if equipped), front wheels chocked. You do NOT want the parking brake to come on while you have the rotors/drums off. Pulling the key out of the ignition can cause this.
You should have a M14 triple square male bit and ought to use that one. The *******-McGyver method that also worked for me in a pinch is a good (!!) sharp (!!) set of locking pliers with a half round cut out to grab bolts/nuts. The smooth heads of the M14 caliper bolts stick out far enough to be grasped by a sharp set of locking pliers and loosened. Loosen, do not remove caliper bolts. Use big screwdriver on the old pads to fully compress pistons. Unplug wear sensor connector (destroy the bigger female end if you have to; you replace it anyway; mine were ape-tight and would not come apart until I split the female connector with a screwdriver). Remove caliper bolts fully. They are crazy long and you will turn them for a while. Set caliper onto the suspension arm that is right next to it. You can hang it, whatever - just be sensible. Remove old pads. Just cut (or rip apart) the old wear sensor cable. Remove the spring clip (use a hammer from the outside of the caliper to pop the clip right out). Thoroughly clean caliper with brake clean and scrape/wipe the pins the pads slide on. Remove rotor bolt and rotor. Use drill and wire brush to clean wheel hub and wash with brake cleaner. I washed the parking brake assembly as well, for good measure. Put new rotor on (after washing friction surfaces wih brake cleaner) and put rotor bolt in (with anti seize).

Put new spring clip in. I found that placing one end into its groove and then using a large screwdriver and a hammer to drive the other end into place worked really well. Use anti-seize on the slide pins and the inside of the holes of the new pads. Insert new pads, attach caliper, attach sensor wire and make the connection, torque caliper bolts. I used locking pliers and had no way of accurately measuring torque but I put them easily as tight as they were when they came off.
Wire brush hub surface of rim and put rim back on. Torque wheel bolts. Push brake pedal a few times to settle pads.

Re-check brake fluid. Clean up and go for a test drive and do the recommended setting procedure for your pads. Usually it is a few moderate hard stops from 100 km/h or so and a few more from a slower speed. Read up on it.

Go home, park the Touareg and haver a couple of beverages. You spent $500 in material and saved $1000 compared to the dealership....

I was slow about it, had to figure some things out and spent the better part of the day doing this job. If you have everything on hand and are organized, you can probably do fronts in 1.5 h and rears in an hour. I rather have a beverage and take a break in between.

No pics, but I hope this writeup is useful to someone.
 

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Very useful! Thanks for sharing.
The only thing I want to clarify on before I do my rear brakes is the parking brake thing.
Obviously leave it off but do I leave the key in the ignition? Turned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very useful! Thanks for sharing.
The only thing I want to clarify on before I do my rear brakes is the parking brake thing.
Obviously leave it off but do I leave the key in the ignition? Turned?
Ignition off, but key in the slot. Not sure re EX line with button start. Maybe key in range. Alternatively, you can disconnect the connector for the parking brake motor on each rear wheel.
 

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Ignition off, but key in the slot. Not sure re EX line with button start. Maybe key in range. Alternatively, you can disconnect the connector for the parking brake motor on each rear wheel.
Looking to do my own rear brakes and pads soon on my 2011 Touareg. I did the fronts and they were easy. What tools do I need? I know I need a male M14 triple square socket for the caliper bolts, but what tool is needed for the bolts shown in the picture below?

Also, I'm assuming I need a T50 torx for the rotor screw, but is there another screw for the parking brake adjuster (or whatever that 7th hole is on the rotors)?

Thanks,
Brett
 

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BEWARE the electric parking brake or you will wish you had got the dealer to do the job.

This guy knows his stuff but still got the EPB bit wrong!

How to change the rear pads - myTreg forums
Trust Nooby on this one. I was going to put in a warning, but Nooby beat me to it.

The last time I checked, the electronic parking brake motor was $500 per side and the fracking things are way too easy to break. Think of it as a $500 dollar part made out of glass stuck in the middle of your brake rotor.

The electronic parking brake was a VW solution to a problem that did not exist. But, selling you the replacement motors are soooooo profitable.
 

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You guys are still talking about previous generation Touaregs... The Touareg 2011+ has a different system.
this!

I just did my T3 brakes, and did not have to do anything at all with VagCom or electric brake - just make sure the parking brake is off.

I like that the T3's have been simplified over previous generations, it is rare especially for a german manufacturer to simplify and reduce technology/complexity to increase reliability and maintainability.

The T3 has been great to work on and maintain, think it is easier than a B5.5 Passat.
 

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You guys are still talking about previous generation Touaregs... The Touareg 2011+ has a different system.
The Generation 1 [T1 and T2] cars have mechanical parking brakes.

The Generation 2 [T3 and T4] cars have electric.

Across the board, complex electric parking brakes are throwing up expensive faults people did not suffer with the "old-fashioned", simple, wire operated brakes.
 

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The Generation 1 [T1 and T2] cars have mechanical parking brakes.

The Generation 2 [T3 and T4] cars have electric.

Across the board, complex electric parking brakes are throwing up expensive faults people did not suffer with the "old-fashioned", simple, wire operated brakes.
Which model do you have or what model have you replaced the rear brakes on?
 
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