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Discussion Starter #1
Noob here! I am having difficulty in finding a good DIY in checking / testing my vacuum system. Are there any good guides and / or diagrams? If so, how do I effectively search the forum. (Sorry).

My problem is that the vehicle RPM dips 100-200 every 10-20 seconds, while idling. No stalling, but very annoying shudder. Any help appreciated. EGR valve? PCV valve?

Vehicle has 205 000Mi and running well otherwise
 

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The plastic vacuum lines develop micro fractures that can not be see by your eyes.

Best bet is to get a smoke machine and feed smoke into the vacuum system. You will find your leaks quickly and easily.

Your other option is to just buy all the vacuum lines from VW... and replace all of them.

Your choice.
 

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One more option, Google - how to run smoke test to find vacuum leaks. DIY without smoke machine.
 

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Good eye Drag, I like to call mine a T2 also but it’s probably more like a T 1 1/2 T1 body with BAR engine, T1 headlight buckets but AFS lights etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oops, I assumed T2 (had updated Xe headlights etc. ). Anyway, it is AXQ engine as far as I know. Remember, “Noob here” 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I did a DIY smoke leak test. What I found was some some leaking / coming up from the bottom of engine area on drivers side. There is one small diameter vacuum hose diving down and disappearing on drivers side. There is no way I could see exactly where smoke comes from. Looking at diagram located in engine bay, only vacuum components located even close to that area, is the hose referenced and a “vacuum reservoir “. I cannot see anything resembling that, looking from above or below....... No clue how to find implicated area. Any advice?
 

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You might have to get the vehicle on a lift to find and fix the problem.

Yes, if there is a leak before the vacuum reservoir, you are going to have problems.

If we were talking air pressure, the vacuum reservoir equals the air tank. You could call it a vacuum tank as it serves the same purpose.

When it is not working, the vacuum will be too low at all times and the system will not work correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks! Now a bigger question. I have repaired the “stuck intake manifold flaps” in the past, but they are stuck again. In addition, I am considering taking the manifold off, and replace the two oil drainage check valves in the valley pan. Should I consider replacing the manifold with a refurbished one?? Or are the manifolds good if flaps are freed up. If this is right course of action, what else should be done / cleaned / serviced while I am in there??

Any leads as to where I could purchase a rebuilt intake manifold?

Thanks!!
 
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