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I have a 2005 VW touareg and i keep getting two dashboard error messages saying 'System fault workshop' and 'Brake assist workshop.'

Also the console for the 4 wheel drive is flashing also got diagnostic test which came up with fault code 02053 we reset but faults keep returning .

The pictures show the error messages.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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The first port of call with the Touareg is to put it on VCDS, record any faults and the fault codes, clear them, drive the car, and then put it back on VCDS to see what faults, if any, have come back.

The Touareg is also very sensitive to the slightest drop in voltage.

What is the voltage reading on your battery gauge? It should be a fraction over 14V.

Is you car still on its original battery? If so, then it's probably time to change it regardless.

There is also a UK site www.mytreg.com
 

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I know this thread was started sometime back. Right now im having the exact same problem with all the warning light as above..error codes says Transfer case module

All warning lights goes off whenever i switch off and restart ...I notice it appears again when i hit a bump or when i brake hard

My question should i change the transfer case module/motor (expensive!)

or is there any other sensors that i should look for which is faulty?

There is a grinding sound from rear wheel and looks like its coming from rear brakes, i just changed the pads, could it be the rear bearings instead? (left side). Does this problem causes the above warning lights to come up? ( system fault,brake assist - ABS and TRC lights comes up)

Any information will be great help

Thank You

P/s: a question to stephog. what was the actual problem and how did you fix it? thank you
 

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I have an 04 V8 Touareg that I just bought a couple months ago at a small dealership. I have since had to do some minor servicing,I had an engine light come on and last week I took my car to my friend who is a mechanic, and when I started it up to go there I got a warning on dash saying "System fault workshop" and what looks like an axle. My friend read the engine code and it says 'engine is running lean, using more fuel than necessary'. I try to start my car to go home and it will not turn over. It keeps cranking as long as I hold the key, the lights and radio work-not a dead battery issue (yet?), but the car does not turn over. I try a few more times, same result. I go back inside his house, come out 30 mins later and the car starts on first try. Car seems to start ok after that, then I drive to store and I have the same issue when trying to leave. Car will not turn over. Tried many times, still no turning over and I was stranded there. I've had this happen a few times since then, it doesn't happen every time, I've gotten that system fault workshop warning a couple times. I tried changing the battery in the key, still doing same thing. I'm hoping I can avoid Niello VW on this issue but I need more info! Anyone having these same problems? Car has 100k miles.
 

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It is very hard to read your mind about what part of the US you are in. I could recommend a decent dealer if you were in Beaverton OR but I won't because I don't know where you are.
Do you have a VCDS/VAGCOM - If you don't you should get one, particularly if you want to avoid dealers.
Some of us might be willing to help if we knew where you are but we can't because we don't.
 

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Adding to this Thread -
About 3 weeks back, on a lovely -15F Sunday morning, I used the remote-start to fire up the 2004 V6 Tourareg, base model. When I got in, there was a flashing brake light on the dash, a symbol for what looks like "drive train"? two axles, a tcase, wheels turned - "system workshop" and "brake fault stop" . AND - the transmission would not shift out of park.
Guessing it was the cold - and not having another option, I let it run a hour - and when I went outside to check it - it was fine. Took it on a trip to Anchorage - 50 miles each way - and it was no problem.
Next morning - same alarms, stuck in park - the shift interlock won't release and let me shift.
Lots of internet searching - maybe corrosion under the carpet at the driver's side?
Seems ok:


Car stuck a week at this point :( . Lots of internet searching for the source (this is when you BUY THE VCDS FROM ROSS-TECH - DO NOT WAIT like I did) - I tried charging the battery to make sure it was topped off - and threw a part at it (which I hate doing - but now it's another weekend coming up - I can't even give up and take it to a shop (I have a bachelors in Auto and 5 years in a Ford dealership - usually I can fix whatever is wrong in my cars and I find that most mechanics know less than I do, and - throw parts it it )) - so I tried the Brake Thrust Sensor note cool custom-bent wrench


No change.

Came to my senses - I've known I'd need the VCDS should have bought it when I found out about it back when I was messing with the blower motor....
anyway - bought the Ross-Tech cable - yay ... ran outside....NOTHING - it won't recognize being connected to the car....waited till I could try my 2000 TDI Bug....nothing - like it's not plugged in :( I had to get up at 4:50am to get out to the car at 5-ish to be able to call Ross-Tech at 9-ish am....
They were very helpful - suggested I try my OTHER car - a Jeep Liberty (really my daughter's car while my wife borrows the Jeep - long story) - and it LIGHTS UP!!! This is an important feature of the Ross-Tech VCDS - there is an LED that indicates the power and ground on the OBDII port is working.

So - check fuses that night. Found a blown fuse - VCDS works!
I was hoping the main problem would be magically fixed too - but no.

Codes for ABS and Transmission module not communicating.

No power to the three big fuses under the hood.....not blown, just no power.



So far I can't find what those do - are they powered by relays in the Trans and ABS module?....

The fun continues. I may have to flat-bed this thing and take it to the local VW specialist and pray they don't throw parts at it - it's way more expensive for them to do that than me.....I think the battery is original...it SEEMS fine, with correct voltage at idle etc...but it's a another "throw parts at it" thing and sometimes it makes sense to pre-empt that....it would cost me less than 200 to do it and more than 300 if a shop wants to....
 

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Further details - the large fuses underhood ARE powered - my circuit tester needs the point ground finer - it wasn't reaching the test points on the larger fuses.

I found that there are at least 3 fuse panels - both drivers and passenger sides. I got into the passenger side - no power at all to the lower section of fuses.


So - is there a relay? or a fusable link that feeds this section of fuseblocks?
 

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better thread on this : http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/stuck-in-park-brake-fault-61788.html

The relay - "Terminal 15" relay, is under the driver's seat - I jumped the power with a wire, and this provides power to the section of fuses on the RH side - and when I start the car, I can get it out of park, the alarms aren't on anymore.

I still have to resolve what I found when I dug farther up into the harnes on the driver's side - seems this trouble has happened before to this car - I found a big kludge of wires for ground, and two small, teeny wires (that go to the relay Terminal 15) spliced with crimp connectors with shrink-seal covers. One goes to terminal "K" on relay - not sure that it does but the wires are blackish/corroded even when I strip it back an inch. A cluster 3 wires that reach waaaa up under the dash are 12 volts w/ key on - and seem like they maybe were fine from the previous repair - I note there is are 4 wires ( all yellow w/ red stripe) in the pics in the link (above) while my car has 3 wires only....

I think I may have the trouble isolated - resolution? yet to be determined.
 

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So I cut out these two splices - one provides 12v, the other is a ground-side switch to the Terminal 15 Relay. I ground them in half, looking for my Gremlin....



Really - seems ok. In all 4 crimps, it looks like just the tip of the blue wire was in the crimp - but it was still a firm crimp and no corrosion got in. It looks like a "factory repair" to me - I bought the car in 2011 from the original owner at 38,000 miles so sometime in the past it was worked on. I really don't like the ground clamp they used ( you can see it off the tip of my finger in the pic - it's a hose clamp.) - the copper was too dirty for me to get any hope of good soldering tho' - I did try :( and just ended up cutting the mess away. I used a tinned split bolt - available at Home Depot - and some NoOx grease. Can't be worse. I didn't get a picture of the split bolt in place, sorry - it's damned cold up here in Alaska and I was hurrying to try to test it.

Blackburn Type HPS Split Bolt Connector-10HPS-B1-5 - The Home Depot

While messing with the ends of the "formerly spliced" wires, just twisted together to see if things would work - the "red/tan" wire, to the right in the pic - just fell apart about 6 inches below the splice.

 

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The car is still torn apart - I need to know the proper stack of washer/spacer/cone-insert on the passenger wiper if anyone knows it - pics/searches aren't showing me and I don't remember it correctly from 2 weeks ago when I took it apart. It IS running, and I can reach in and shift out park now - but with the seat out it's hard to drive :D

I figure a couple hours out in the cold with fix it - I have to start and warm the interior an hour at least before risking the plastics in installing them again.
 

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http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/terminal-15-relay-18846.html

good thread on terminal 15 relay

And - pretty much ANY "runs weird/dies/stop/fault/alarms" thread should have the advice - "check all 3 sets of fuses" first - I know it seems stupid but I had thought "there must be Rh and Lh version with fuses on opposite sides" - I had never run into a car with 3 sets of fuses before.
 

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with the seat out it's hard to drive :D

.
Being pedantic, my recollection is that the seat bolts are one-time use and are supposed to be replaced each time . . . !
 
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