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Discussion Starter #1
disclaimer: i know this is a topic discussed many times, and yes, i did read a LOT of the threads already posted and am posting this new one, because i could find a surefire solution. if i did miss something in my searches, and this is redundant, please forgive me :)

i'm trying to fit an aftermarket radio in my '06 R5 TDI. bought the connects2 steering wheel control adapter. (bad choice, read on!) while volume up/down controls work fine, the switched 12v lead from the adapter is controlled by IGNITION, meaning the unit turns OFF when the engine is cut and NOT of when the key is REMOVED. this [email protected]#$s! (and is as-designed: i had an exchange of messages with connects2)

i naturally want the power off on key REMOVAL behavior (like everybody else). i did read a lot of threads. i checked the fuses. none provide this behavior. the closest i could easily get is tapping into the sunroof actuator (i'm already "there" with the microphone wire), but power to that is cut (after ignition off) when EITHER front door is opened. that again seems sub-optimal.

in one thread someone suggested splicing one of the wires from the steering lock actuator, but i didn't find a follow up. the person there says there is a shorter pulse on key insertion and a longer on key removal on one of the wires, but he doesn't say which.

the connection in question: three wires in 4-pin connector (from J518 to N360), "easy" to access after removing driver side footwell trim.

i'm thinking of a set/reset switching circuit, where the SET would be ignition low-to-high (from the connects2 adapter) and RESET would be one of the wires from the lock actuator.

now the question: which of the three wires? the person in "that" thread did not ellaborate. does anyone know if kind of signals these wires carry? analog level? digital? modulated pulse? (from the wiring documentation i'm guessing/hoping they're not CAN) would it be safe to drive the switching side of a relay or transistor from it? i'd like to know as much theory as possible before testing/cutting around the N360 (i've read of all the dreaded steering lock issues, and wouldn't want to cause one myself).

would prefer to go with this - seems more old-school -, before building a can adapter.

thanks for any advice in advance!
 
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