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Jason, if your rear end is still squatting with a WD hitch, your hitch is not adjusted properly. Measure from the ground to the top of the wheel arch for front and back and capture before and after measurements. I was able to dial in my Touareg and large Airstream (approx 6800 dry, 850 tongue) with my WD hitch and get the touareg leveled back to 1/2 inch to 1" of original values. A little time down at the CAT scales would probably get it closer than that.
 

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An expensive but I think a very viable option is something I have used for a couple of years on my 31' Class C RV. It is called a Trailer-Toad. This is classified as a hitch extension. It is basically a 3500lb torsion axle. It uses a draw bar to connect to the receiver of the tow vehicle. The trailer connects to a weight distribution hitch mounted on the toad. It articulates up and down and the axle pivots side to side. I have towed several trailers with my RV using this unit and it is a godsend. No sway, no bounce from the trailer hitting bumps and dips and it pushes the pivot point back making it easier to navigate and such.

I have not used mine with my '06 V10 yet but anticipate doing so for a trip to Atlanta at the beginning of May. I will report back. I expect it to work perfectly. It wouldn't put any abnormal stress on the hitch like a WD hitch would. The only area it takes special steps is for backing up. You have to lock it from pivoting when backing up and then just unpin it to go forward again.

They are on the expensive end but not much different from a Hensley. Since it has a weight distribution hitch it controls sway fine. I don't anticipate using it for pulling the trailer to local events but it might be an awesome way to go for those who want to be extra prepared and safe.

I am not affiliated with Trailer-toad but have owned two of their units in the past 3 years with great success. The site is TrailerToad.com.

Keath
'06 V10 TDI (TV)
'02 Corvette Z06 (RC)
'06 Honda Element (WC)
'08 31' Forest River RV (RV)
'99 Ford F250 (TV) (For Sale (replaced by Touareg))
'99 Nissan Sentra (DD) (For Sale (replaced by Touareg))
 

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well i have purchased a 2006 touareg with air susp and a v8 to pull my rv that I am ready to buy. I am so confused on sway and WD hitches. I dont feel I need a WD hitch as well as the warning not to use on, but am curious as to sway control. my trailer is a 2011 Coachman freedom express 232rbs this is a lightweight aerodynamic trailer.
specs as follows:
hitch weight 363
unloaded weight 3847
carrying capacity 2705
exterior length including hitch 26'4"
i hope this is enough info to generate a few good responses. you guys here are amazing with some of the postings i read here concerning towing. i want to keep this simple and I think this is the place to get answers. thanks
 

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That is the most crazy thing i have ever seen , and yet very interesting. wow what setup. it seems as though it would work great.
 

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Hi NuttinButTDI,
I loved your last year (06-02-2010) calculations and references to the J2807 new towing parameters. I am interested to have details of your calculations for the Pounds/Torque in 1st gear: Pounds/HP in 6th gear: ratio.
My TV is an allroad 2003 and i have special hitch imported from Westfalia, Germany, rated for the AR at 5 070 lb (draw). THe engine is chipped to 305 hp and 355 lb-pi torque. the allroad has a very good final differential ratio (4,3) which should make it a very good TV. it also as an air suspension (which was standard on allroad). So with your held from your spreadsheets and my TV figures, i should be able to figure out what i need as an WD and Sway Control hitch as well as the appropriale travel trailer.
Ciao !!! and thanks in advance for your help
 

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Just installed the Andersen WD hitch on my 2010 19-ft. Flying Cloud (to my 2013 Touareg); Seems to have gone well, but if you're thinking about doing this, you'll discover that Airstream runs a propane line on the bottom of the right frame arm, exactly where the the 3-inch frame bracket is supposed to bolt. The bracket bolt won't work there, unless you cut the propane line clips, pull the line (carefully) down and out of the way, so that the bottom bolt of the Andersen frame bracket will fit. It worked well, thanks to Paul at PTO auto who is really good with welding. Because the 3-inch airstream frames are open C-frames, you must weld the frame bracket in place, a process very clearly shown in the Andersen manual. They just won't hold if you only use one set screw.
Here's how my installation looks. First picture is the left side, second right side (with the propane line), third the overall Anderson install. In the first two pictures, you can see the welds, which have been painted over in black.





 

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Just installed the Andersen WD hitch on my 2010 19-ft. Flying Cloud (to my 2013 Touareg); Seems to have gone well, but if you're thinking about doing this, you'll discover that Airstream runs a propane line on the bottom of the right frame arm, exactly where the the 3-inch frame bracket is supposed to bolt. The bracket bolt won't work there, unless you cut the propane line clips, pull the line (carefully) down and out of the way, so that the bottom bolt of the Andersen frame bracket will fit. It worked well, thanks to Paul at PTO auto who is really good with welding. Because the 3-inch airstream frames are open C-frames, you must weld the frame bracket in place, a process very clearly shown in the Andersen manual. They just won't hold if you only use one set screw.
Here's how my installation looks. First picture is the left side, second right side (with the propane line), third the overall Anderson install. In the first two pictures, you can see the welds, which have been painted over in black.





How is your Andersen hitch working out? I just purchased a 2013 Touareg TDI and am pulling a Airstream Sport 22. I have been going back and forth between the Andersen and the EAZ WD hitches. Another question, on my Sport 22 the frame is 4" and is not a open C frame. I wonder if welding would still be necessary

thanks!
 

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As a follow up I tow my latest camper (a Cougar 304 BHS...>33', >10,000lbs) with an F250 diesel. No WD (doesn't need it as the F250 doesn't compress at all under this load) and 1 friction unit.

To be honest with you I'm still unconvinced of the effectiveness of any anti-sway system, do you really think a couple of little bars will stop >10K lbs from swaying?

I think its all in proper setup (make sure your hitch height is correct for your ball height, that you distribute weight properly, that you have >15% of total weight as tongue weight) etc..
I have a handful of tows now on my touareg pulling a 21 foot travel trailer, and I am convinced that the words above now match my personal experiences... A big rig trying to pass me doing 55 MPH while they blow by in a head wind at 65 or 70 with my Equalizer hitch is a push pull PIA, the anti sway tries to drive the back end of the car away from the truck and drives the front end of the car into the truck, to the left. It's nasty, the correction necessary at the steering wheel with that equalizer hitch.

The vehicle tows much much better with a fair amount of tongue weight (I run about 10-15 gallons of water in my clean water tank for tongue weight to get me to a hitch weight of about 400 pounds on a 3600 # trailer, and no equalizer or anti sway bar. The Touaregs software appears to do an amazing job.

I don't have problems with the front end lifting up much if at all with this set up, but I store nothing in the trunk of the Touareg, it all goes in the travel trailer, to keep excess weight off the rear springs.

YMMVm but i must say, the Touareg tows great, I am glad I went with it as my tow vehicle for my travel trailer, it does a remarkable job in TDI format.
 

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I have to admit I'm a bit overwhelmed by all of this, but I am about to pick up a 22' VRV <4000 lb. toyhauler / trailer to haul bikes with and camp in. I picked this trailer as at full capacity it is within the OEM specs (<700 lb. hitch weight and <7k lbs loaded). I plan to go pick the trailer up tomorrow and may use the OEM hitch and ball, but the dealer installs Equ-i-lizer hitches and I'm curious if I should go that route or hold off and get a Husky Center Line or EAZ-Lift instead. I have an '09 with steel suspension and would love to hear thoughts from those here as to the ideal setup.
 

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Just reading through this old thread and have to say it is a clear as mud! Much of the confusion is that some people are recommending / others discouraging use of anti-sway and things like Pro-Ride. Making it worse is that the answer seems to be different for air vs steel suspension but it is not always clear which setup is being discussed.

In my case, looking at using my '04 Treg V8 with Air Suspension for occasional towing of a 24' Featherlite car hauler @ 3,500 lbs. Curb weight of vehicle being towed is 2,400 lbs.

Given that config, should I be adding anything beyond the electronic brake controller?

Thanks.
 

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Just reading through this old thread and have to say it is a clear as mud! Much of the confusion is that some people are recommending / others discouraging use of anti-sway and things like Pro-Ride. Making it worse is that the answer seems to be different for air vs steel suspension but it is not always clear which setup is being discussed.

In my case, looking at using my '04 Treg V8 with Air Suspension for occasional towing of a 24' Featherlite car hauler @ 3,500 lbs. Curb weight of vehicle being towed is 2,400 lbs.

Given that config, should I be adding anything beyond the electronic brake controller?

Thanks.
I wouldn't bother. Suggest try it as is (brake controller is a no brainer of course). My Treg (V10 with air)with ESP handles the caravan (TT) 3300kg with no problems. Admittedly the van also has Alko ESC but the previous van did not. Mind you I travel at around 90kph (up to 100+ if passing). From what I read here most US treggers seem to travel much faster.
Latest trip was 20000-odd klms with not the slightest feeling of unease.
Hope this helps. Cheers, Dub
 

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Ok, I know this can be a touchy subject but I thought I would throw this one out there and see what discussion develops.

Before we start, a little about me. I have quite a bit of towing experience (decades + 1000's of miles) with utility and travel trailers with and without WD. I'm a mechanical engineer with some professional experience testing military trailers.

I have a 2013 T-reg TDI towing an Airstream 16 foot Sport. The trailer is 2860 lbs dry, 3500 lb GTW and 350 lb dry tongue weight. I towed last year without any WD hitch without problems. Yes, the T-reg squats in the back a bit but the handling seems very acceptable, even in cross-winds that I've encountered during high cross-wind warnings. I keep the T-reg as empty of gear in the back as possible (maybe 150-200 lbs max). I'm surprised how stable this combination is when being passed or passing tractor-trailer and other much larger RV's.

I have an old Reese Strait-Line from our 1963 Airstream but it has 750 lb bars and I feel it's much too stiff for the new Airstream. Here are photos with the Reese installed.





Comparing our new setup (T-reg/16' Airstream) to our old setup (2010 Explorer/19' Airstream) The T-reg handles better without WD than the Explorer did with WD. The trailers are about the same weight and not too much different in length so I believe the primary difference is the tow vehicle (low profile tires, better suspension, shorter rear overhang, etc).

As I see it the trailer is short, the T-reg is stable - do I really need a WD hitch and/or sway control?
 

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For a 16' airstream on the T3 I would personally use no aids of any kind. I'd minimize payload in the T3 (which you've done) ensure the weight inside the TT is well distributed, and aim to get everything as level as possible.

Great looking combo you've got there, enjoy!
 

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The 2016 Touareg Owner's Manual seems to have the following limitations for towing: total weight of 7,700 lbs, tonque weight of 626 lbs, maximum ball diameter of only 2", no more than a Class III hitch, no load leveling or weight distribution hitch. While the 7,700 lbs is impressive, what kind of travel trailer could one really two with all the other noted restrictions? Thank you.
 

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Guys,

Thanks for the great thread. I have a 06 V10 with air suspension and a recently purchased 06 Airstream Safari 25'. I won't use a WD hitch or friction sway bars based on what I am reading here. Is a trailer brake installed in the Touareg a no brainer/ must have? and where is the best place to go to get that installed?

Thanks!

Wade
 

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Wade, my opinion:

OK, I have not read this entire thread...but I would use friction sway (honestly don't know why you wouldn't unless you are towing less than 16'). It improves sway and feels more tight in the straightaways. BUT you MUST remember to take it off before you back up or maneuver with tight low speed turns.

Because you have air I would agree on skipping the WD.

I would get a shortened hitch shank that allows the ball to be as close as reasonable to the rear axle. Don't need a long shank without WD. A long shank will in essence increase your rear overhang. Short overhang = good stability. Long overhand = more downward leverage on rear axle. WD has it for leverage (bars supposedly create tension that uses this length for upward force-not an engineer my lame understanding), but I am not sure it really does much for WD either...

Get a brake controller...it would be illegal for you to tow without (given the trailer weight). Install is something I never did, I made the dealer do it. This is the only non-negotiable point however, the other points could be debated for pages and pages as many an RVer has his or her own opinion on things.

Happy camping!
 

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I'll help keep beating this dead horse topic...

Anyone used the Hayes 81775 Sway Master Electronic Sway Control?

I've seen a few reviews saying it's amazing or just an addition to anti sway bars.

Just bought a 20ft (4400lb with 500lb tongue) dual axle for our T2 (v6) to drag around. I told the salesman I didn't need the load leveling because of concerns on this tread as well as many saying they have no need. I towed our 3500lb boat/trailer and doubt the hitch deflected a 1/2" putting the trailer on it.

Since nothing can correct a sway once it starts short of braking or slowing down I'm very interested in the hayes device!

Any real world experience?

As seen here:
 
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