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I left my car for 2 weeks in the airport parking to return to the following problems:



Warning lights - ABS, BRAKE (flashing) EPC, Key symbol on dash, BRAKE FAULT STOP VEHICLE, WORKSHOP.

Systems that were not working - No Speedometer indication, shift-lever stuck in park :mad:


Speeking to my local VW Toureg service provider they informed me that there could be corroded wire splice under driver seat(left) due to moister in carpet.
Moister is due to leaking front window seal

After cutting up open the wire loom, wire splice was corroded as seen in pictures below.

I stripped and reconnected the wire splice and put shrink wrap to seal and then retaped wireloom with waterprof tape.
My idea was to try reposition the splices higher up in loom so it does not sit in the lowest point and cause further corrotion

After repair all failure and warning light extingused, however I used Ross-Tech to clear all codes that were if any.

I do hope that this can be a of help for other, ....Why is there not a VW service letter for this :confused:

Brgds Sveinnlogi
 

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The pictures move this from a good post to an outstanding one!

With regard to the moisture.

There is a known problem with the area immediately in front of and below the windscreen filling with water due to blocked drains that emerge in the front wheel arches.

This water can back up through the pollen filter and then leak into the footwell resulting in a damp carpet and subsequent electrical problems.

You really need to see if the pollen filter is dry and those drains are clear as soon as possible.
 

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thanks for this, i noticed my passenger side carpet wet once, water seemed to be dripping from A/C air filter area which is above the passenger feet. however in my case i have been driving for a long time in high humidity and after leaving the car parked for a while all dried up and haven't happened again.
 

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Nice post Sveinn, good fix too! I will check drains around pollen filter on mine too. Right after I fix the leaking air shock fitting - anyone know a good place to get these or Xenon ballast units?
 

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I signed up here to personally thank the OP for this. You probably saved me thousands of dollars. No doubt that my local VW techs would have spent days searching for this problem and charged me accordingly. My Touareg is about to get shot in the head still though. Never had so many electrical problems with a vehicle that is so expensive.

For the record here, I looked in the well in front of the driver windshield and I have no debris or standing water. I'm not sure where my moisture is entering the vehicle at but the spongy material under the driver side carpet was soaked with water. When I undid my wire loom and looked under the OP's recommended wire splice points (mine were a bit different on an 06 V8 BTW) the wire had actually liquified into a green goo already. Most likely from sitting in moisture for 5 to 6 years. My car started having driver side airbag faults, and a few weeks later ended up catastrophically failing with all kinds of control module faults, system fault workshop, and brake fault stop vehicle warnings. And of course, with some of these things, VW locks the car in park and you are stuck dead in the water where ever you are. Boo.

Anyway, thanks again for posting this on the internet so others could find it and benefit from it. All I have to do is clear some codes (crosses fingers) and everything will be right as rain again. At least now I can drive somewhere to do that.
 

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You won't see the blocked plenum chamber drains by looking down into the area just in front of the windscreen.

The water backs up through the pollen filter on the left hand side [drivers on LHD cars and pax on RHD cars]. This then needs replacing too by thw way.

You can just about see the drains up in the front wheel arches behind the plastic wheel arch shields and to the rear of the suspension struts.

Here's the fix:

Water Ingress in Bulkhead/Footwell - Step By Step Guide - myTreg forums

There are two ways to release a car from P for Park by the way.

One involves accessing a switch on, I think, the right hand side of the gear lever by removing part of the console surrounding it.

The other involves crawling under the car and disengaging the selector. I believe this is both quicker and easier!

Hopefully someone might know where the links to both of these get-arounds are?
 

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Great write up!!!
I just had it stuck in park also.
Had one connection that was the problem. The others looked good. There was only a little water under the carpet.
 

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Bringing this thread back...

Does anyone know how many splices need to be redone and has anybody experienced CAN bus or diagnostic problems relating to this problem (i.e. modules not reachable by the CAN bus)?

Thanks.
 

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I'm working on this right now. I have all the symptoms but I can't seem to find anything wrong with the wiring harness. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places? All wires seem well coated. Where does the corrosion usually occur?
 

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The corrosion is where the wires are spliced. Initially I couldn't find it either then realized I needed to go further forward and open the black sleeve where the bundle of wires run through. You'll find three sets of spliced wires - the splices are taped with black tape. In my case the black wire splice were okay, but I cleaned them up too and soldered the connection. Good luck!
 

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Splices looked clean aside from tape residue. Stripping down and soldering regardless. I got this far into it to not take some action now.
 

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So none of my wires were corroded. Respliced them anyway while I was in there. Is there any thing else that could cause this malfunction? What so those loosely spliced taped wires do? Could it be a fuse problem?
 

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Got the emergency release level open so I can roll it around. Looks like I'm going to have it towed to the dealer on Monday. I was hoping it was the wires because that was a simple and free fix. Kessy not so much.
 

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How about the Relay for Supply Voltage Terminal 15 (under drivers seat)
 

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They had a little corrosion around them but really just discoloration. I probably should pull and clean them in the morning and see if its any luck. I still have the seat and center console out. I had been saving some pennies in case the fuel pumps ever started to act up. I found the kessy for $530.00 through Jim Ellis, but my local dealer doesn't have a list price on it. Although it doesn't do me any good to speculate at this point.
 

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Update: Just got word back that a bad secondary air pump solenoid and a couple fuses were causing this problem. Thanks for all the help along the way.
 
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