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Discussion Starter #1
2008 v6 base model


The whole thing started with my front right bearing that had to be replaced. I dropped my car at a garage that I trusted near my job in the morning. I went to pick it up in the afternoon and while on my way back to work, I heard a big scratching/screatching noise coming from the front-right wheel. So I went back to the garage and noticed that my rotor ( that was brand new ) had huge scratches on it. They put the car on the lift to see that the wheel was loose.

So, they kept the car, changed the bearing again. they told me the got a defective/wrong bearing from their supplier. They also changed my rotor.

Since then, I have this random steering shake a speeds between 115-140 km/h (70-85mph) and a huge shake when I brake really hard at speeds over 60km/h (40mph)

I went back to the garage and they told me the usual "your tires are worn unevenly... they may.. so its probably... so wait t'il you change your tires"

But I had none of these shaking problems before this whole story.

Anyone knows if this could be due to maybe a cheap bearing ? Cheap rotor ? Or due to 2 different rotors ( one from the dealer the other is not) Is there some tests they can do without changing the brakes again and changing the bearing again ?

thanks guys.
 

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Find a new shop! Bad bearing and or warped rotors/over torqued wheel bolts etc etc.
 

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Who are these grease monkeys?

You NEVER EVER replace just one rotor, FFS!!

AND, having replaced BOTH rotors as a matched pair from the same source, you ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, fit new pads.

Bite the bullet, and go elsewhere.
 

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Were the rotors just two weeks old as well or had you put new pads on worn rotors?

And depending on the scoring on the rotor they replaced, this may have cut into your new pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well pads and rotors were changed at the dealer 2 weeks before this happend, not sure if they changed the pads as well when they changed the rotor. But I have the shaking even when I dont brake, just driving on cruise control... Is there a "best guess" or it could be anything as rg955tt said ?
 

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Known TSB for wheel shake at highway speeds, its on here some where. Do a search, you'll find it. Has to do with the orientation of the rotor as well as torque technique and spec. This IMO would not explain the severe vibration under braking though...
 
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Known TSB for wheel shake at highway speeds, its on here some where. Do a search, you'll find it. Has to do with the orientation of the rotor as well as torque technique and spec. This IMO would not explain the severe vibration under braking though...
That relates to the T3 with SWS.

Why aren't you certain the dealer fitted new pads when they fitted new rotors? It would be most unlike a VW dealer not to do so.

Regardless, the garage that ****ed up should be fitting a new pair of VW rotors [like for like], not some cheapo aftermarket which is the route they will almost certainly go.

Like I said earlier, I'd be taking the car somewhere else to get the brakes done - you don't still trust these guys after this cock-up do you?? - and then send them the bill.

I'd suspect run-out on the rotor they've fitted if you have vibration when cruising that wasn't there before but, regardless, get the front wheels rebalanced, preferably on Hunter equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh yeah I'm sure the dealer did change the pads, but the garage that f***ed-up changed one rotor, probably not the pads and the rotor.

I know that would be the best thing to do (changing rotors and pads at the dealer and bring them the bill) but I'm pretty sure they will not pay that bill. It won't be that easy but that will be my last attempt for sure. I will first go back to them and tell them what I think, at least I will look like I know what I'm talking about now thanks to you. ;)
 

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Tell them look, bottom line when I brought it in no shake, no vibration, now undrivable. Fix it and fix it right or I'll take it to the dealer replace everything reasonable and send you the bill...won't pay, see ya in small claims court. You will lose. Do the right thing. How the f did they not know the wheel bearing was the wrong one? And if the wheel was loose did they damage the wheel? This is BS, stand your ground.
 
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You're right, thats the way to go. Not easy to be firm sometimes when you dont know what you are talking about. Thank you guys again.
 

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Let us know how it goes. Good luck, be kind but firm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I left my car at the dealer they taught that my breaks could be the problem... but after verification they are not, so I guess the only thing left is the bearing itself... If that makes any sens, not sure. It's really frustrating...
 

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I left my car at the dealer they taught that my breaks could be the problem... but after verification they are not, so I guess the only thing left is the bearing itself... If that makes any sens, not sure. It's really frustrating...
That make sense it could be the bearing. I had the same issue with my 2001 Subaru Forester. Everyone kept on saying it is the brakes, and I had new rotors, new pads, new caliper installed and still shaking with or without braking. Finally fixed by replacing in this order:

1. Bearing.
2. New rotor, caliper and pads.

If you replace in this order:
1. New rotor, caliper and pads
2. Bearing

The shaking will still be there because your rotor and pads have now bedded with uneven surface.
 

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This is a common problem with the Ford Explorer with the power steering rack and pinion.

Air gets into the system if the steering is turned when the engine is OFF.

Purging air from the system by cylcling the steering all the way right to left a few times fixes it.

I know it sounds unlikely but it's free and it might work.
 

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Might be a little too late, but this is what happened...

First thing to do is to get yourself a pair of cheap front rotors. Autopartswarehouse had an overstock with $20 per rotor. They still do. Put them on the car. Make sure the shops cleans out the hub and rotor well. Now make them measure the runout on both sides on new rotors. The perfect way to go is to measure the rotors themselves while new for thickness variation. This is to make sure that they are not defective from the factory. Any shop or even yourself can do it by using the proper gauge.

What you should do next is tell them to measure the runout while both rotors are mounted. I will bet you, that the side where the bearing was changed is going to wobble, meaning there is nothing wrong with your rotors pads or caliper. When the shop pressed in the new bearing, they haven't done it all the way, and it is now off-axis/tilted. If you put the caliper back on and put the pads in, you can spin that rotor and see how the gap between the rotor and the pad changes while rotating. It could be even touching the pads(dragging brakes). If its not visually detectable, then dial in the runout again. If it is present ever so slightly borderline specification, go to PepBoys and turn your rotors on an on-car lathe, which will most likely make your shaking go away.

If visually detectable, the do yourself a favor and document everything, comeback to the shop and point out that they screwed up the bearing install and it is not in there straight. Verifying/documenting the above with brand new rotors mounted is you solid proof, hence the suggestion to buy a cheap set.

Opposed to the common believe here, there is nothing wrong with putting back in the almost new rotors and pads that you recently had installed. I would simply have the rotors turned on a procut, and prep the pads by roughening up the surface and doing the full bed in procedure. UNLESS those rotors have deep enough grooves that aren't removed by the lathe.

I've been through this and still not finished with fixing up my issue, as need to find time to get to the mechanic. My rotors + pads are $300 per wheel, so will not be throwing them out after 500 miles after a botched bearing install.

Hope this helps.
 

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You only have 1mm wear allowed on each side of the rotor so getting them turned may not be an option.
 
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