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If i understand correctly
there are 3 set wires in filter assembly (2 in socket and 1 single) but we only remove 2 sockets and leave the single wire there. In your case since you used the bottom of the old filter housing, you must remove all 3. Are you sure all the wires are back in place?
Step 19-20 on your link, there is a single wire that i am talking about.
 

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Yes I double checked and make sure connections clicked in place. I did of course connect ground wire from old filter housing. again it is not that complex and is mind boggling where the issue is?
 

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Yes I double checked and make sure connections clicked in place. I did of course connect ground wire from old filter housing. again it is not that complex and is mind boggling where the issue is?
May sound stupid but are you sure you have the right filter? Maybe fuel is not flowing through properly? Can you connect a battery to the prongs on the top where the connector goes and get the pump to operate? Get a 9.6v RC battery and connect to the flange with some leads. If the pump doesn't work and all wiring is correct the pump is bad. There could be a problem with the fold flange assembly. Maybe you should just replace both the flange and the pump? It is possible that one simple thing replacing the filter is just coincidental to the problem?
 

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May sound stupid but are you sure you have the right filter? Maybe fuel is not flowing through properly? Can you connect a battery to the prongs on the top where the connector goes and get the pump to operate? Get a 9.6v RC battery and connect to the flange with some leads. If the pump doesn't work and all wiring is correct the pump is bad. There could be a problem with the fold flange assembly. Maybe you should just replace both the flange and the pump? It is possible that one simple thing replacing the filter is just coincidental to the problem?
Thx for help - appreciated. I don't think that vdi oem flange is wrong - there is not much to it. I just measured voltage on the connector as per pic and I am getting none with key in or door open. Have 12.5v on both fuses and relay.
 

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Yes...filter flange was leaking as seal was not inserted properly - once re-inserted all was back to normal...simple 3c seal....now I know!
 

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Yes...filter flange was leaking as seal was not inserted properly - once re-inserted all was back to normal...simple 3c seal....now I know!
Great to hear you got it fixed. I had trouble keeping the seal in place when putting the flanges back in. It would seem straight forward but with everything connected it is possible for the wires or hose to push some of the seal down into the tank. Maybe easier if you buy a new seal, however I did not. Seemed to have better luck putting the seal on the tank and then inserting flange vs putting seal on flange. The locking ring goes on a lot easier when everything is proper. It will still lock down but the flange won't be flush if some of the seal is on the tank and some pushed down into tank.
 

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I was talking about the seal inside the filter flange housing as I kept existing one and use the new top portion with the filter cartridge. Just to clarify.
 

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Ok I have replaced the fuel filter assembly including the bottom the car started right up , but the fuel gage says I'm on E but I have a full tank . then after running for about 5 min it cut out and stopped running restarted it ran for about 5 more min and did the same now the car doesn't want to start any clues as to what could be the problem now ?
 

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Ok I have replaced the fuel filter assembly including the bottom the car started right up , but the fuel gage says I'm on E but I have a full tank . then after running for about 5 min it cut out and stopped running restarted it ran for about 5 more min and did the same now the car doesn't want to start any clues as to what could be the problem now ?
to clarify you replaced complete fuel filter assembly? you did not take it apart and only replaced top portion? your symptoms indicate that filter flange is leaking and pressure cannot be build and pumps shut off.
 

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So here is my stalling story. A couple of weeks ago, leaving the office, it took longer than normal to crank, then started dying after 30 or so seconds. Started back up easily though. Repeated that about 8-10 times until I finally called AAA and had it towed home.

Searched all the related posts and all pointed to fuel pump(s). I decided to check electircal and output of pumps. Electrical checked out. Fuel pressure on system was between 50 and 60 PSI. Left pump supplied 80ml of fuel in 15 seconds while right pump supplied 90ml of fuel in 15 seconds. All seemed OK, so I put everything back together and it ran fine for 50-100 miles or around town driving.

Had a minor battery issue after not driving it for a week or so, took care of that and then the 30 second stall started up again. Decided to change the fuel filter on the left side since it was obvious neither access point had never been tampered with. Good thing as the fuel that was draining out of the filter appeared that it had fine particulates in it.

Fired it up afterwards and it ran great at idle and revving it up for over a minute or so, then gradually started dying (much slower than previously). Repeated this 3-4 times with same result. I then unplugged the left pump, started it up and had the same results. Plugged the left pump back in, unplugged the right pump, started it and have the same result. Each time it fires up right away and runs good for a good minute.

This has me stumped. Trying to understand if it is indeed a pump and if so which one, or if there is something else going on.
 

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I did when checking the electrical portion. Are you suggesting removing it while running? What will that help me determine?
 

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i ran my car with removed 404 relay for more than 1 month :D
I removed the relay before the engine was not running and keep driving like that.

Someone correct me if i am wrong but my understanding is
Treg starts with the secondary pump and after 30sec it goes over to the primary pump. Without the relay, it keeps running on the secondary pump. In my case, my primary pump was bad and i was able to drive the car with the secondary for a while but i replaced them both.
 

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i ran my car with removed 404 relay for more than 1 month :D
I removed the relay before the engine was not running and keep driving like that.

Someone correct me if i am wrong but my understanding is
Treg starts with the secondary pump and after 30sec it goes over to the primary pump. Without the relay, it keeps running on the secondary pump. In my case, my primary pump was bad and i was able to drive the car with the secondary for a while but i replaced them both.
The pump behind the drivers sear is in the primary side of the fuel tank. The primary side is the larger volume side of the tank. The pump behind the passenger sear is in the secondary side, and smaller side of the fuel tank. The primary pump primes the rail and is activated by opening the drivers side door. You can hear it prime. Almost sounds like the motor for the seat. After 30 seconds of operation or so the pump stops priming the rail and the secondary pump takes over and runs the car. It is my understanding that the primary pump also transfers filtered fuel from the larger side of the tank into the secondary side of the tank as needed.

If the car runs for five minutes then shuts off something is amiss with the secondary pump or pressure regulator assembly flange above the pump. Something is also amiss with the float sending unit if the tank is full but gauge reads empty. Maybe when the wrong signal is sent the car/ECU thinks the tank is empty and quits running the fuel pump to keep from burning it up. Did you dislodge the float for the sending unit when installing the pump?
 
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