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Discussion Starter #1
Did anyone figure out how to "teach" the computer on a T1 that lower LED current is good current and not a bad bulb?
I want to avoid the resistor solution if at all possible.
 

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No.
 

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:wink2:Slightly longer answer... I believe this is related to a certain vehicle model being able to support either halogen or LED bulbs, depending on chosen factory options. Thus, for such models VW designs the electrical circuit to support both situations, meaning that only a software configuration is needed in production (i.e. VAS ) to detect both halogen and LED bulbs correctly depending on chosen factory option.


For example, some of the newer sedans (don't remember the model now) can be ordered with either halogen or LED license plate lights, and the electrical control module is then adapted via software configuration to apply the correct detection "algorithm".


Thus as both the T1 and T2 were only factory equipped with halogen bulbs throughout (well, except the side blinkers on mirrors and center brake light), the faulty bulb detection circuit detects only halogen bulbs correctly.


So yes, nooby's short answer is correct. And in addition, halogen and LED bulbs have different radiation patterns, and once you fit a LED bulb into a reflector housing designed for a halogen bulb, you will change the reflection pattern of your light quite drastically...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I installed the LEDs: new generation plug-in design with flexible ribbon heat sinks and 40W/ 4800 Lumens each. Same radiation pattern as the xenons, nice straight cut line. Everything fit inside the headlight assembly. Needless to say that the difference from the old xenons is like night and day. Last fall I barely avoided a black cow who materialized in front of me on a dark night...

The warning light is triggered when the current drawn by the lamp falls below a threshold (which I was hoping someone had figured out how to re-code) A generic H7 is 55W, so at 40W I'm not far off. When in DRL mode, when the lamps are powered at lower current, there is no warning, but it turned on for a few days at night. Now it stopped. I am probably just somewhere at the borderline.

I can live with that for now, as during the night I can get a visual check that my headlights are working or not, and during the day I will find out if any other lamps in the car are defective.

If I'll want to fix it permanently, I will install, instead of silly resistors, 18W LED light bars on each sides of my winch, and connected in parallel with the low beams.
 

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Can you put up the link for the LEDs you bought please?

All the 35 watt xenon conversion kits I have used are CANBUS proof so presumably they have resistors built in to fake a 55 watt draw but, apart from the label, the box of tricks looks no different when you then buy the 55 watt kit! [And the supplier confirmed that the bulbs are the same for both the 35 and 55 watt kits.]

PS Pix of the winch please . . . !
 
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