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Hi all,

Currently replacing the front rotors (did the rear a couple of days ago). It seems the rotors have seized onto the hub. No matter how hard I hit them with a hammer or how much WD40 I spray, they won't budge... Anyone else experience this?

Thanks!
VD-CH
 

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Even on my old 1993 Pathfinder they had a threaded hole to use for pushing off the rotors. They do tend to get stuck!
 

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I have gotten corroded rotors off vehicles before by heating with a torch. I am not talking blazing torch your bearings heat. I gently warmed them up just hot to the touch and then took a hammer to them. They usually lossen up then.

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It’s important to use the least amount of force possible. The sealed wheel bearings are under the hub and attached, so all those hammer blows can have a negative affect on the bearings. Dead blows aren't recommended. Penetrating solvent of choice to loosen rust adhesions which occur in a thin rim around the edge of the hub to the back of the rotor. Wiggle and persuade the two apart. Don’t make things worse by overdoing it with a dose of anger!
 

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One of my favorite shop supplies is neverseize and this thread is a great example why. Just the smallest amount (you don't want to contaminate anything) on the hub where the new rotor makes contact will be much appreciated when it's time to remove the rotor again.
 

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I take it that the securing Torx bolt has been removed first before attempting to remove the rotor. Don’t worry about hitting the old rotor. BIG soft mallet should get it off. The wheel bearing will not get damaged as it would see much higher impact force and load during its normal working life. I would not suggest heating it up as you have the wheel bearing grease, speed sensor and CV joint that could be compromised...and it would take a lot of heat before it would do anything. The whole hub/upright, etc... has a lot of mass to it

Sorry... VD-CH, I just read your 2nd thread. You got it apart anyways... well done!
 

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This is a great tip, thanks for sharing !

I have been wrenching on cars for 40+ years and have had a few rotors that would not come off the hub and wish I had thought of this method.
 

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If you have the car off the ground completely, remove the rotor retaining screw and leave calipers/pads alone. Put it in gear (f or r doesn’t matter) and apply the brakes.


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It's funny cause if you use the method in the video, which i'm pretty sure won't work because there isn't that much room between the carrier and the rotor, and you've removed the axle like the guy in the video it's likely you will damage the bearing. I personally would personally use mini sledge and start by striking perpendicular to face, then move to back of rotor, I think the method mentioned earlier with lugs and retaining screw out, as long as the car is completely of the ground is good too...
 

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A little mixture of 50% ATF and acetone will penetrate between the disc and hub and help loosen the thing up.
This works on lots of other things as well
 

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A little mixture of 50% ATF and acetone will penetrate between the disc and hub and help loosen the thing up.
This works on lots of other things as well
this mixture is by far the best penetrant out there but make sure you use a squeeze bottle as the acetone will quickly kill all pump sprayers

also I find that penetrants, I personally prefer Kroil in aerosol form, are like appetizers or early rounds of a featherweight boxing match...if you get my meaning

Generally speaking I would start with removing anything you can with wire brush or wheel, followed by thermal shock if the part(s) can tolerate it to break up the rust. For example, torch or inductive heat gun followed by garden hose. Lastly moderate heat and melting paraffin into the parts tends to work much better than penetrants and the fumes are easier on you if you are thermal loading/cooling things with heat/water👍
 
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