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im glad this helped you. this place will always amaze me.
well... in my case, the OEM didnt blow the fuse.
the aftermarket one did, i opened the oem one and will open the after market pcv and replace the housing so it doesnt blow fuses anymore.
my guess would be that the guys who built these aftermarket parts didnt really test them. especially the resistance or something like that in the PCV. or it could be that the pins from the pcv are flipped. but the connecot will only go one way in.
you can drive without the wires since its just for the heater inside the plastic bottom of the housing.
i dont know where you are in the US but " winter is comming"
find a dude to add a transistor to the wires so it doesnt blow a fuse again, or get an OEM one keep the old upper housing hose and the insides will work fine after the oem breaks
 

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I disconnected the wires to the pcv valve and what do you know, no blown fuse, and no n112 code. Wow. Thank you for that. Now:

Can I run the car with the pcv wires disconnected?

Why is that causing the blown fuse to begin with? The pcv valve itself is almost brand new and this problem predated its replacement.
Where did you get the pcv? VW or aftermarket?


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its aftermarket supposed to be german production. (amazon)
i cleared it and it came back up after 20 seconds. i think there is some sort of connection between the n112 lines and the pcv thats the only reason why a blown pcv fuse causes a n112 code....
 

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I got mine on aliexpress. Working fine. I will go back to the oem housing with a custom hose and clamp to avoid any leaks at the valve cover. I noticed that even the oem one starts leaking with age. And you can’t replace the oem hose only. I’m even thinking of adding an air filter as a catch can even if the MultiPoint Port Injection system in the 24 valve VR6 is not probe to carbon buildup. I did notice some important gunk on the intake ports when I removed the intake. Valves are ok though.


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oil leaks into the PCV is the reason i changed it. abit too much oil to be happy about it.
wouldnt an air filter get covered in oil and stop working if there are leaks? a catch can sounds great ( could use a vw oem one even) . i dont like the hard plastic lines they never last and crack and breaks easy!
we have a 30+ degree weather here almost for 9-10 months a year. its a very hard life for these lines around these parts of the world.and every line is pretty pricy just because its oem and hard plastic when silicone ones would work great
 

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There shouldn’t be too much oil going from the engine cover to the pcv. There is a plastic oil separator inside the valve cover. Any escaping oil is blocked with that plastic separaor and should drip back to the engine. If you’re seeing too much oil at the pcv you probably have some piston seals going bad or some other issue. I don’t want to worry you though. What oil (brand/spec) are you using? You can see the oil separator (black plastic piece) in my valve cover gasket replacement thread.


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This is what I’m thinking about but it needs some tweaking and a tank.




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the engine i have as far as i know it doesnt have an inside oil seperator. ( i have the kit with the propper gaskets thou) its not alot of oil. nothing to be worried about. ill change the gaskets when i have to! head cover gasket is fine, as well as the manifold.
ill change all the seals and gaskets when oil leaks appear. so far so good.
 

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It’s not really an oil separator. Just a plastic baffle near the pcv port.
If all is good leave it like that. When you are ready read my thread and get some high temp sealant to put with the gasket to make it leak proof. And use elsawin for the how-to, torque spec and tightening sequence.


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If you still have the oem one I suggest you swap the diaphragms. But you have to be careful not to break the housing. You can run with the pcv disconnected but if it gets bellow zero you will have issues.
It’s the heater resistance with is causing you issues. Is returning the pcv and getting a replacement an option?


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Discussion Starter #54
The original is long gone. I replaced it a couple of years ago. The OEM part runs $180 compared to $50 for the aftermarket. That made my decision at the time pretty easy. The v6 Touareg is not too common around here. I’m in Tennessee. We get below 0 degrees rarely here. Any other vw vehicles that have a similar pcv valve that I could take the intervals from?
 

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Nope. Even the 24 valve vr6 3.2 of the audi TT or the Golf R32 have a different setup. There the phaeton and the porsche cayenne still. Will see if they use the same pcv.


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At least it only blows a fuse and does not set the car in fire like on theBMWs !



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Discussion Starter #59
Nope. Even the 24 valve vr6 3.2 of the audi TT or the Golf R32 have a different setup. There the phaeton and the porsche cayenne still. Will see if they use the same pcv.


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So, when I disconnect the connection to the pcv, the CEL for n112 fault to ground goes away, but the SAI pump still does not come on at cold start. And when I check readiness status using vcds I get an error message for the SAI system. No CEL though. I’ll try to post a picture. I know I also have a bad O2 sensor. Just ignore that.
240437
DF7495A4-0B9C-4AF7-81C7-0A71EAE16A26.jpeg
 

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