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Again regarding the gloves comment. I juat saw the video 馃槀馃槀馃槀 sorry about the rant still a bit blazed from last night
 

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I think you should get a prize for rubber banding latex gloves to the exhaust. That is a priceless tip. My air pump fuse blows as soon as I turn the ignition on, but I can jump the SAI pump and get it to run that way and it sounds normal. Any ideas?
Yeah that guy is pretty good at diagnosing stuff. If you can activate the pump using vcds this means the relay works fine. You have an electrical problem somewhere else. But I would get a new relay just to test it鈥檚 not that expensive. Let me know if you need help finding the part number.


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I found the problem for the code... The pcv valve is shorting !!!! The new one. Im not gonna send it back. Ill crack it open and replace the inners into the old one i took off
 

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Good. The pcv valve has two wires which are used to heat it in cold weather. You can disconnect the plug. There is no electronic stuff in there. I did open/destroy it to see what鈥檚 inside. A small heater which is activated in cold weather when it鈥檚 freezing to prevent the pcv from being clogged by any frozen blowby. Disconnect it. I suggest the OP do the same. You might just have found the cause of his issue too. But in his case there is fuse blowing going on !!


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If you intend to keep the treg you guys should really look into relocating the vacuum solenoids/tank like I did here. Makes maintenance very easy.



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Good. The pcv valve has two wires which are used to heat it in cold weather. You can disconnect the plug. There is no electronic stuff in there. I did open/destroy it to see what鈥檚 inside. A small heater which is activated in cold weather when it鈥檚 freezing to prevent the pcv from being clogged by any frozen blowby. Disconnect it. I suggest the OP do the same. You might just have found the cause of his issue too. But in his case there is fuse blowing going on !!


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Me too. Everytime you plug a new fuse in it blows
Disconnected the plug from the new pcv put a new fuse in and voalla no blown fuse. Stick the connector to the new pcv... Blows.
Now....
Does it need the connection to the pcv ? Or can i cut it and put a transistor on there so the chrck engine light goes away ? Or what do you think
 

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If you intend to keep the treg you guys should really look into relocating the vacuum solenoids/tank like I did here. Makes maintenance very easy.



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I will do that. But i want to make sure everything is in order before i do. So incase of a problem down the road id know where to look
 

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This will even help you find issues with the current setup and understand how it is wired/connected.


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I dont know if the short from the pcv because of a bad wire inside it or if the dude building it put the connector pins wrong like flipped them. Any way ill do some tests on the old and new using z multimeter to see whats what and try to pry it open.... I tried once was worried about breaking it but now i have to! I cant wait for another 2 months for the atuff to arrive
 

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Me too. Everytime you plug a new fuse in it blows
Disconnected the plug from the new pcv put a new fuse in and voalla no blown fuse. Stick the connector to the new pcv... Blows.
Now....
Does it need the connection to the pcv ? Or can i cut it and put a transistor on there so the chrck engine light goes away ? Or what do you think
You need to find where the short is? Is it an oem pcv valve you got? If the old one was working fine you can open the new one and get the diaphragm and replace it on the old one. The pcv connection is not critical in your area of the world unless it freezes over there tomorrow :)


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This will even help you find issues with the current setup and understand how it is wired/connected.


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Waiting on silicone hoses to arrive in different diameters. Ill takcle that next.
After i sorted the pcv out
 

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You need to find where the short is? Is it an oem pcv valve you got? If the old one was working fine you can open the new one and get the diaphragm and replace it on the old one. The pcv connection is not critical in your area of the world unless it freezes over there tomorrow :)


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No not oem. Oem is the old one. Replaced by an aftermarket one just because i couldnt crack it open. The new aftermarket part is the cause of the short. But i guess i can take the insides ( diaphram) and put it back into the oem one that does not short !
 

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If you go slow and use two or three small flat screw drivers you can open it easily. I did it several times.


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I would absolutely keep the oem housing. The wiring is cast into the plastic. Just swap the diaphragm and keep the spring and all the oem stuff. Better for you in the long run.


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Trespect OEM pcv i guess was just fine, because i ripped the diaphram opening i! and no unusual signs in there. ill replace the housing tomorrow and see if fuse blows again or not. but i think the N112 code was triggered by the blown fuse, checked all the fuses in the car all ok.
i guess the N112 solenoid went bye bye. as i mentiond a new one is on the way ill replace it then and check whats what.
ill study the videos you sent until the parts arrive and see what i need.
ill do the relocating of the vacuum lines, egr check and all other vacuum lines and solenoids when the N80 **** (not N88) and N112 solenoids arrive
ill keep this thread alive
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I disconnected the wires to the pcv valve and what do you know, no blown fuse, and no n112 code. Wow. Thank you for that. Now:

Can I run the car with the pcv wires disconnected?

Why is that causing the blown fuse to begin with? The pcv valve itself is almost brand new and this problem predated its replacement.
 
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