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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the VAG-COM info:

17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground
P1421 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded

I replaced the solenoid (N112) with no change. CEL comes back on.

I also have replaced all of the vacuum lines from intake the solenoid and to EGR valve, and I can toggle the SAI pump relay and pump using the VAG-COM output test.

CEL will not go away. Any ideas on what else to check?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Still have not figured it out. Replaced solenoid and vacuum lines. It keeps blowing the fuse (#50). I took out the driver’s seat and inspected all of the wiring running to the control units. Nothing out of the ordinary.
 

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did you eventually figuer out the problem with the solenoid? i have the same code, came up immediatley after i replaced the PCV valve, ordered a new valve, replaced the vacuum lines.... ill change it when i get it but incase it doesnt work id like to hear from you if youve solved your problem... havent checked the fuses nad relays yet. this is just the next step on my todo list ( i have two more threads going on here with another awesome dude whos trying to help me out)
have a good one
 

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did you eventually figuer out the problem with the solenoid? i have the same code, came up immediatley after i replaced the PCV valve, ordered a new valve, replaced the vacuum lines.... ill change it when i get it but incase it doesnt work id like to hear from you if youve solved your problem... havent checked the fuses nad relays yet. this is just the next step on my todo list ( i have two more threads going on here with another awesome dude whos trying to help me out)
have a good one
I still have the same problem. CEL on: 17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Short to Ground. Never have been able to fix. Good luck.
 

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You probably need to remove/test the combi valve. The valve has a rubber diaphragm too and either get gunked or torn or stuck.

Some pics here:



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what have you done for diagnostics so far?
my next step would be checking the feuses and relays, then the connector to the solenoid it self, then follow the wires.
if the new solenoid doesnt do it.

Trespect bro you never seize to surprise me. was about to email you.
got the PCV last night, pluged it in went to turn the engine on.... it chocked for a second or two then the light came on went for a drive today, feels worse than before but now i know for sure that its a vacuum problem.
i changed some of the lines when i took the mani off as i told u before. will have to change the rest. i didnt replace them with the hard plastic hoses i used silicone hoses with the same diameter as the ones i replaced, but im worried that they'll be sucked close as the system works from the vacuum on the inside....
especially the fault code one the N112 it goes from behide the eingine ontop of the mani to the EGR thats my next stop)
i have the day off tomorrow so ill tackle the hoses tomorrow.
 

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Silicone hoses as vacuum hoses are ok except the brake booster one which should be of a specific thickness.
Back to the SAI system. You need to remove test the combi valve. Easy to do with a vacuum pump. Requires intake manifold off. Ecu is probably not seeing enough fresh air in startup and is showing the error as a solenoid error where in fact the valve is blocked. The ecu has no way of checking the combi valve just like the pcv valve.
Now for your choking problem you probably broke a hard vaccum one. They just break inside the plastic protection. The one which can cause choking is the one going from intake to the n88 valve not far from the combi valve. Make sure that hose is not leaking. It’s the evap system hose which is supposed to re-route fuel vapors to the intake on demand from the ecu by means of opening the n80 solenoid. I’ll post a pic. The solenoid is hidden tucked behind the coolant hoses. This solenoid should be checked replaced too.

N80 looks like this:


Find that hose and follow it to the solenoid and check nothing is leaking there.





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Will do brother. Ill let you know how it works. Btw.....
Working on 3d model for the driveschaft bearing support which is infamous for its failures.... Itll be made outa one solid block steel or alu. Which would sit around the bearing ( top and bottom piece that screw together) using the original mounting plate. Theres something similar on the market but im not paying 400 bucks for 20 bucks worth of alu.
 

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Will do brother. Ill let you know how it works. Btw.....
Working on 3d model for the driveschaft bearing support which is infamous for its failures.... Itll be made outa one solid block steel or alu. Which would sit around the bearing ( top and bottom piece that screw together) using the original mounting plate. Theres something similar on the market but im not paying 400 bucks for 20 bucks worth of alu.
i used the jimmy fix. Solid and cheap. Need a coolant hose and some zipties. No need for any custom stuff. Corect Gates hose is mentioned several times in the thread. That’s what I’m using.


 

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Did that. Work just fine.
I just dont want to worry about it ever again you know ?
I got a new job at a construction company designing structual blueprints.....
So when ever i have a free minute i use the programs i have there to desing stuff that i need.
Ill happily send you one when i figure it out
 

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Great, congrats then:)
go after that SAI setup using the video above and get that thing fixed :)
Evap video coming soon.
Thanks for the offer, I appreciate !
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think you should get a prize for rubber banding latex gloves to the exhaust. That is a priceless tip. My air pump fuse blows as soon as I turn the ignition on, but I can jump the SAI pump and get it to run that way and it sounds normal. Any ideas?
 

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Regarding the glove comment. There is no heat around that area. Water pipes are silicone pipes .... Still take heat pretty well. ( You need to know what youre using ) would suggest heat resistant ones. Not to mention there are heat protectors on the original lines so you can use thoes ......
You probably have a short somewhere.
Some people complained about water getting into the battery area undr the seat from a clogged aircon drain.
In your case i would get an electric stream detector( lights up when there is electricity and no light when none is there ) and follow the lines . Jumped the sai as in giving it Juice to turn on or bypassed it ?
Check the SAI resistance using a multimeter ( dont know the exact numbers but itll be online somewhere ). What would happen if you put a fuse that can take a bit more pressure ?
 
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