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Discussion Starter #1
I have a MY17 TDi Treg and am curious about scan tools.
Do I need to have a genuine VAGCOM scanner or does a (for instance) Bosch OBD 2220 scan tool work?
I've been told that manufacturer specific codes will not show but I'm not sure how many that would be and how advanced.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
 

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I have a MY17 TDi Treg and am curious about scan tools.
Do I need to have a genuine VAGCOM scanner or does a (for instance) Bosch OBD 2220 scan tool work?
I've been told that manufacturer specific codes will not show but I'm not sure how many that would be and how advanced.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
You have a genuine Touareg, so why not a genuine............

We should be happy God doesn't give us everything we ask for
 

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Any OBD II scan tool will read standard OBD II codes. VCDS does that and more, reading all VAG specific codes that provide much more information when something goes wrong. In addition, it has advanced features that you can use to test and troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks OddJob. Sounds like the way to go.
Kenrick, I'm not sure how to take your response or how to reply to it so I'll just leave it at that.
Cheers.
 

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Thanks OddJob. Sounds like the way to go.
Kenrick, I'm not sure how to take your response or how to reply to it so I'll just leave it at that.
Cheers.
Markus, I am also interested in OBD 11 scan tool mainly to monitor Transmission and water temps when towing - I believe it does this. I am not likely to want to get into technical stuff. Is there a great difference in price and ease of user interface between on OBD 11 or VCDS ?
 

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The systems on these vehicles are very complex. If you don't have the ability to read all the "technical" errors in detail, you will regret saving a few dollars on your purchase. Even if you don't do your own wrenching, having the ability to see how serious something is or to validate whatever you dealer\shop is telling you is invaluable in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys.
I haven't gone any further with this issue as yet so not aware of pricing etc.
It does sound like VCDS is the more powerful option not to mention being from within the "family" so to speak.
Cheers
 

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VCDS will pay for itself the first time you trouble shoot some weird error that goes beyond OBDII. For example, helped me find a bad temp switch in my AC system that I was then able to easily replace.
 

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For me I feel the Ross-Tech cable and their software is one of the most useful tools in my toolbox, I'm sure there are good options and it is a personal choice for what you choose but for me it has been worth every penny spent to buy the genuine cable from Ross-Tech.

Just recently I was able to reset the 40K Inspection reminder, dealer wanted $105 to do this 5 minute job. I do a lot more just this with the VCDS software............
 

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Learn how to read posts. That reply wasn't to anything you asked. As a matter of fact, did you even ask anything in this thread or are we suppos thanks for your helped to read your mind?
sorry mate, the problem i have with my r5 , i have changed a water pump and thermostat. using my VCDS scanning tool was interesting. in the scanning mode engine cooling fan came on, i switched to read a temp and VCDS temp was going up and down from 60C to 120C, the engine wasn't running. I am sure i don't have an overheating problem, so, is it a sensor or ECU give me trouble? I can drive a car, but temp gauge going mad, up and down, now it's just staying at 120c and alarm beeping, the engine is not overheating. mast be a sensor?
 

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sorry mate, the problem i have with my r5 , i have changed a water pump and thermostat. using my VCDS scanning tool was interesting. in the scanning mode engine cooling fan came on, i switched to read a temp and VCDS temp was going up and down from 60C to 120C, the engine wasn't running. I am sure i don't have an overheating problem, so, is it a sensor or ECU give me trouble? I can drive a car, but temp gauge going mad, up and down, now it's just staying at 120c and alarm beeping, the engine is not overheating. mast be a sensor?
First of all, unplug the sensor. Look for obvious damage in either the sensor or the plug that connects to the sensor. Clean and repair any issues. Re-plug sensor. Any change?

Odds are:
1. The sensor has died. Change it.

2. Electrical Wiring Damage. You can visually check for basic wiring damage and ohm out the wiring now, if you wish.

3. The ECU. No reason to go there yet. They don't fail often and I see no indications or reasons to start down that road currently.

I can't rule out a problem with the pump, but this is not a typical bad pump presentation that I have seen. The thermostat can not normally cycle this fast, so I don't suspect it either.

It would be typical for a bad sensor to do this. Sensor first.
 

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First of all, unplug the sensor. Look for obvious damage in either the sensor or the plug that connects to the sensor. Clean and repair any issues. Re-plug sensor. Any change?

Odds are:
1. The sensor has died. Change it.

2. Electrical Wiring Damage. You can visually check for basic wiring damage and ohm out the wiring now, if you wish.

3. The ECU. No reason to go there yet. They don't fail often and I see no indications or reasons to start down that road currently.

I can't rule out a problem with the pump, but this is not a typical bad pump presentation that I have seen. The thermostat can not normally cycle this fast, so I don't suspect it either.

It would be typical for a bad sensor to do this. Sensor first.
Thanks mate, looks like a sensor ,test it, yes, bustard, now, impossible to get to it without taking manifold out.
 
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