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Discussion Starter #1
I think we're seeing some of the rough shifting symptoms on our '05 V8. It seems to be fine until the transmission gets up to full temp. Then, sometimes, it will surge and thump when shifting down from 5th to 4th gear. When it does, then it seems more prone to also thumping a little from 3rd to 2nd. It's not an everyday occurrence, but annoying non-the-less. I've read countless threads on replacing the transmission valve body, and think that's probably the best solution (when I have the cash to drop $700 into the part). But I'm looking for an opinion as to whether or not changing out the diff. fluid would at least help the situation a little. Or would it just be a waste of money? Thanks
 

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Changing the Oil In your front and rear differentials as well as your transfer case is an excellent maintenance activity, but it will do nothing to solve your Transmission Valve Body problem,

This problem was solved by the time my car was built however I would be reluctant to use it much until you get it fixed for fear of doing any subsequent damage to the transmission. When they thump, quite a deal of load is placed on the trans and drive line.

Stuart...
 

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Hedditch talks the truth. You have the infamous failed valvebody. Get it fixed ASAP! It's an easy, albeit pricey fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick responses. Luckily, this is not a daily driver. It's lucky if it sees 20 miles a week. I guess I'll plan on replacing the valve body. I saw RevMax has some rebuilt versions for sale. Is that a good option? I've never dealt with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also saw that some people are using a rebuild kit to rebuild their valve bodies. Has anyone done this? And if so, is it relatively easy (no, I don't mean like plugging in 2 wires easy, I mean like I don't need specialty machine tools and a cleanroom easy).
 

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Reaming out a valve chest is best left to the experts unless you are good and experienced at this kind of thing.

B*gger it up and you then won't be able to swap it for a Revmax remanufactured chest which would be my recommendation.

In the meantime, use the Tiptronic to change gear like a stick shift/manual to avoid that trailing throttle/light load/slight incline/35-40mph THUMP as the car miss-times the 5th to 4th change when the valve momentarily sticks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hedditch, I see what you mean about changing fluids in the differentials. Not sure what I was thinking. That wouldn't help the shifting. But would it perhaps help to change the transmission fluid, and possibly add a friction reduction agent? I'm definitely leaning towards the valve body replacement, but I would consider a short term solution if it gave me a little time to plan for the more expensive work.
 

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How many miles on the Treg? My guess is the ATF is still original? I am no expert on transmissions, just wondering if fresh fluids will not help those sticking valves that Nooby mentioned?

I have changed the ATF and simply amazed at the difference in the shifting. Perhaps it can cure what appear to be early signs of a bad valve body.

After dropping the transmission pan at 85K miles, changing the filter and seeing all the graphite like sediment in the pan, I have a theory that all that gunk has the potential of clogging the AFT intake filter inside the transmission. The filter intake sits close to the bottom of the pan where all the sediment floats. This leads to starvation of ATF to the transmission and who knowns what damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Therein lies my problem. I'm no expert on transmissions either (or pretty much any other part of the car). I was torn between doing a fluid change, trying to rebuild the valve body myself, or just buy a reconditioned valve body. My biggest fear was that I'd pay the money for the gaskets and fluids to do a change, and if that didn't solve the problem, then I'd need to buy the parts and the fluids AGAIN to do it over. After much deliberation (and a terribly jerky ride through the mountains yesterday), I opted to break down and buy a reconditioned valve body from Ream Man. It will be here Friday.
 

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I am no expert on transmissions, just wondering if fresh fluids will not help those sticking valves that Nooby mentioned?
Unlikely as the bores do wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just got the rebuilt valve body (chest) from Bore Man. Looks like new. I also have a new transmission filter kit ready to go. My only question now is what ATF to use? I'm assuming the fluid was never changed, so the original fluid is in there now. When I remove the belly pan, I'm expecting to get 6+ qts of fluid out. That leaves a few qts still in the trans. So what I put back needs to be compatible with what's still in there. Is there a preferred ATF, or do I need to run all the way to the dealer to buy actual VW fluid?
 

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remember that fluid quality is critical for AT. diffs and transfer case, as you are not changing them as often as engine oil
so yes i would only use OEM fluids form VW
 

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I replaced the VB in my 2004 Touareg last weekend. I weighed the cost of a new unit vs. the $750 + $275 core charge and found a new unit from a VW dealer for $907. SO VERY happy with the new unit. I have a good core if anyone is interested???
 

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Good result there for an extra $157 to have a brand new valve chest over a recon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Going home tonight to put the car on ramps/jack stands so I can do the valve body replacement tomorrow. Gonna do the transfer case and both differentials while I'm under there. The ONLY thing I'm a little nervous about is being under an idling car to add ATF at temperature. I'm planning on lots of extra wood blocking under there, just in case it would vibrate off the jack stands.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I did the valve body replacement project Saturday, and took care of both differentials and the transfer case while under there. I could not have done it without the many good write-ups on this site. I really didn't encounter any major issues with the project, other than accidently resting my head on the floor for a second, only to realize it was in the pan of ATF instead. That was fun!

Anyway, if it helps, I offer a few extra tips (reinforcement of other points as well).

1. I bought a $12 oil pump from Harbor Freight to do the refill. It worked perfectly. I would highly recommend it over hanging a funnel from somewhere.

2. Be careful to check the actual volume of the ATF you buy. I went with Febi fluid. I didn't notice until I got home that they were 1-quart containers, not 1-liter. So I was short in my refill and had to run for more. It probably took almost 7 liters to refill, and that is not the same as 7 quarts.

3. There are 2 hard bolts to get on the belly pan. But I was able to get them with a 3/8" drive deep socket. It was tight, but it worked.

4. When re-fitting the belly pan, be sure to fit all the bolts before tightening any of them. if you tighten any before fitting them all, there's a good shot that at least one of the hole will not line up PERFECTLY, and you'll need to loosen and retighten to make it work.

5. Andy finally, when you think all the ATF has drained out of the car, get ready for more. I dropped the pan first thing in the morning, and I was still getting occasional flow (not just drips) 2 and 3 hours later as things drained down. Lets just say I'm glad I had a BIG bag of oil dry in the shop.

Anyway, another problem addressed (for now anyway). Car is shifting nicely. Lets hope it stays that way. Onto the next adventure (electrical this time)...
 
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