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Good morning all,
I have a 2013 Touareg TDI Exec, and it was recently in the shop for repair of the rear main seal, which meant taking off the front and removing the engine. While in for service, the shop broke some of the clips that retain the Wheel Opening Moldings on both sides (7P6-853-517-F-GRU and 7P6-853-518-F-GRU). These pieces are an aweful design by VW (pretty much one time use), and they charge an arm and a leg to replace ( $435 each, $640 retail).

Rather than replacing, has anybody come up with a way to repair the clips that break off and pull them back in tight?

Thanks.
 

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Good morning all,
I have a 2013 Touareg TDI Exec, and it was recently in the shop for repair of the rear main seal, which meant taking off the front and removing the engine. While in for service, the shop broke some of the clips that retain the Wheel Opening Moldings on both sides (7P6-853-517-F-GRU and 7P6-853-518-F-GRU). These pieces are an aweful design by VW (pretty much one time use), and they charge an arm and a leg to replace ( $435 each, $640 retail).

Rather than replacing, has anybody come up with a way to repair the clips that break off and pull them back in tight?

Thanks.
I use some flat head black plated self tapping screws which are secure into fairly soft plastic.
 

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So you know what the proper repair is. Two repairs that might get you by are made by 3M. The first is their double-sided VHB (very high bond?) tape. Keep in mind that it may not permit those parts to come apart again. If the clips broke off in the fender, but are still there (i.e. you can remove them with a pick or good needle-nose pliers), I've had really good luck with 3M 05887 epoxy repair material. It is the same stuff that you would use as a body filler for plastic bumpers. You need to buy an applicator gun ($60 in addition to the $60 for the epoxy), and if you intend to use it for more than just this job, you need to buy additional static mixing nozzles as the epoxy only comes with one.

For the future, I have learned to heat plastic parts a bit with a heat gun to minimize the chance of breaking them upon removal. For the fender trim, these parts need to come off to allow the inner fender liners to be removed, which is necessary to remove the front bumper. A bit of work with a heat gun gets the trim pliable enough to get a Torx driver far enough to remove the screws that hold the fender liner in. Alternately, a die grinder on the inner fender side of this trim where the screws reside is relatively inconspicuous. I agree that the parts are stupid-expensive, especially considering their construction.
 
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