Club Touareg Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Although I saw a few good write ups on this site about upgrading the terrible factory stereo, I still need some more help accessing the factory amp and removing the right rear panels. If someone has a video on how to access the factory amp/panel removal process that would be AMAZING! I have a brand new 2014 V6 Sport with Nav and really don't want to break any clips or injure my car in any way.

I already made a custom subwoofer box tailored to the T-Reg and bought an amp, wiring kit, hi-low converter, volume control unit and everything. Now I'm just itching to put in the system but cant figure out the panel removal process. I'm about to search Google.de because I know the Germans must have a step by step guide for this.
Thanks! -Tmbcn3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
Sorry, no video. Don't panic though, it isn't too difficult to do - pretty straightforward actually.
First step is removal of the D pillar cover. Unhook your cargo cover from it. In the track there's a torx bit (I think I used a T25), remove that, and then carefully pop the D pillar cover off (it's held in place by 4 metal clips).
Next, remove the spare cover, just lift it and pull the whole thing toward you and it pops out. Remove the rear chrome trim piece that has the access for the rear hatch latch (it just pops off with a trim removal tool). Remove the track with the cargo tie-down clips on it (4 T25s or T27s again). Now you can start the actual cover. Working from the back of it first, remove the plastic trim anchor (it screws out with a hex head). Next, gently work under the rear hatch gasket and pop the cover off, lifting slightly to get it off of the rear side window. Pull it away from the body panel only slightly enough that you can reach in to disconnect the light and the rear 12v power. Now gently slide it over (no more than about 30 degrees) to avoid damaging where it is attached up by the back seat. This should give you plenty of room to access the wiring and stuff you'll need.
Common hang ups are that the metal clips either fall out (the way they're designed they slide into a plastic retainer, hard to describe but when you get a look you'll understand) or they remain lodged in the metal slot they clip into (easy enough to remove, just grip them with pliers and be careful not to deform them as you pop them out). Another is that that plastic retaining screw can be a beast to get out, you have to really wedge a hex head in there and reverse it as you pull, any forward pressure and it'll just stay in there. There is space for the module above the rear wheel well where the factory head unit is mounted. I only accessed this area for a stereo upgrade, so I'm not familiar with the towing module wiring requirements, but I know several people on here have messed with theirs, so if you need direction there hopefully someone will pitch in. Good luck and let us know if you run into problems!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much cb62fcni I'm gonna try this step by step after work today. I took my car into the VW dealership today for the 3,000mile check up (which was essentially nothing) and when they were done I asked to talk to the person who works on the touaregs. I explained to him that I wanted some guidance on accessing the rear amp/removing the panels and he had absolutely no clue! It's been almost 4 years since this body style came out and he said he had never taken those panels off before! He basically said that he would have to walk himself through the process step by step using the book VW gave him so I definitely don't want that guy working on my car. I couldn't believe that he was so clueless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm surprised there's not many walk-throughs on this subject yet. I've installed an amp to my old 330ci and X3 and there were so many forums with detailed pictures step by step, and even some video. Although, it was much more straightforward with those cars because you could see what was attaching the panels from the outside.

As far as accessing the battery, are there any tricky steps removing the panels by the drivers side doors? I know I'm going to need to run some wire where it is hidden and fits well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
I'm not too shocked, at the price-point of these cars, there are probably pretty few people comfortable doing modifications, and the dealer mechanics are pretty pitifully trained. Luckily, I've owned a few VWs, so I'm pretty comfortable tinkering by myself.

Go to Erwin and buy a one day membership and download all the maintenance manuals. They aren't great, but they're adequate for minor stuff like body panel removal.

Hope the panel removal goes alright, let us know if you need any more help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Wow...WOW that took some effort. I started on this right after work and a little over 4hrs later and about 30 degrees colder I finished. I still need to wire the power to the battery tomorrow because I didn't have the correct bit for removing the driver's seat so hopefully I wired the signal up correctly. I tested the radio and all 4 doors still work so at least I didn't mess that up. I didn't remove the panel all the way so I spliced the front speaker wires in a very awkward position with my hands stretched around and behind the panel just enough to reach it. At first this was out of my comfort zone since it is a brand new $50k car, but just as I thought - once you do it one time it will be way easier the second time. The only bad thing that happened was when I was trying to snap in the D pillar (very last step in assembly) I could not get the middle one to snap it and eventually while I was trying to push it lower into the slot - it dropped out and down behind the sound processor into the abyss... probably completely unnecessary anyway because that screw in the track is right there.
Thanks for those instructions cb62fcni - once I pulled hard and the first panel snapped of I knew I could trust the rest of your instructions. All of that just for a signal to my amp.

One more question I have is what should I use for the remote turn on cable for my amplifier so it doesn't drain the battery? Hopefully there is something that is easy to access that I can add it to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
Those metal clips are a pain. I spent a lot of time gathering them back up after my install. Glad you survived relatively unscathed though.

Remote turn on has been done several ways. Some will just use a fuse tap and run it from the fusebox back when they're running the battery cable. Another option is the 12VDC accessory plug on the panel, but you need a relay to tap that, because it sits at ~4VDC when ignition is off. Myself? I used speaker-level sensing on my bit-10 for turn-on, and the remote out from the bit-10 to the amp's remote on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I only have an Alpine MRP-M1000 so the bit-10 route is not an option for me. Tapping into the fuse box shouldn't be a problem if you would be kind enough to explain to me how to do it :) lol. Do all of the fuses gain power when the ignition is on, or does one gain power when the 850 powers on? I assume it has it's own fuse. Once again thank you so much for your time and help - its saving me a lot of $$
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I bought a fuse tap at lunch today but I can't seem to find a diagram of what the different fuses are. Any suggestions on which fuse to use for the remote turn on for my amplifier??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
I'm honestly not sure, I've never been in the fusebox. Take a look at the owner's manual and try to find something that comes on with ACC mode. The radio or whatever should be just fine. If you have a multimeter, double check that you're getting juice only with the ignition on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Getting to the end of my journey. Amplifier is wired up and working correctly, but there are still 2 issues I need help with...
#1 - I have an air bag error - obviously caused from removing the seat, but I plugged the cables back in and the seat controls work. However when I push the seat warmer it lights up and then immediately turns off. These are obviously connected issues.

#2 - I am having a difficult time removing the panels to run the wire back so they are hidden. Any detailed pictures of where they are held in place?

Thanks in advance clubtouareg - Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I may have turned on the vehicle with the seat disconnected... does this mean that the airbag error will stay on until I clear it with vag com?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
Almost there! Yea, if you turned the car on with the seat disconnected, you'll most likely have to clear the fault with a VAG-COM. You could try a hard reset by removing the negative battery terminal (the pull-out tab by the driver's floormat allows you to access this) Just make sure to leave it disconnected for a full minute or so. The panels are a pain to remove, if you can just work the wire underneath without removing it. If you're unable to do so, you'll have to remove the "B" pillar first. Start at the top where the seatbelt connects, and pop it out from the bottom. It is just snapped into place, but be careful with the height adjuster on the seatbelt, it can pop out. The bottom B pillar trim can then be popped out. Same with the "C" pillar, although on it you can gently bend the bottom up and then run the wire under the rear seat without it being too noticeable. If you remove the rear panel you can simply push it up under the C pillar and grab it from the back, using a clothes hanger or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Ever get the fault to clear? How does the new amp sound?
Haven't tried the soft reset yet. Hopefully that will get rid of the airbag error, if not I will just tell the service guy at the dealer to clear it for me. The amplifier is extremely powerful. I was testing it out on a short drive and my ears were ringing the rest of the day. I'm thinking the 140 decibel range because you start to feel it in your throat/upper chest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I finally got around to doing the soft-reset and hiding all of the wires. The soft-reset (removing the negative power cord for a few min and then re-attaching it) did not work. I took the touareg to the VW dealership and explained to them what to do and they cleared it for free :) I think at this point I know how to talk to the service people persuasively. I also have a bass knob running up from the spare tire well to the right side of the drivers seat and it actually looks very good there and does not get in the way at all. The wires from that go under the seat, meet up with the 4 gauge power cord coming out of the battery, goes under the seat track (fits perfectly as well) and then under the molding where it travels unseen all the way back to the amp. Overall the car still looks 100% stock and the sound has improved by a ridiculous margin. I'll have to add some photos because the box I had designed for the car fits perfectly in the back and is painted a nice dark brown to match my toffee brown/cornsilk combo. I want to say thanks again to everyone that helped me on these forums, especially cb62fcni - reply to this thread if you have any questions for me!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top