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There's no problem mounting the wheels if you turn the hub so one lug hole is at 12 o'clock and then you screw in the long locating pin from the tool kit.

The wheel slides on, you hand tighten four of the lugs, remove the pin, and hand tighten the fifth lug.

Then torque as per the TSB .
 

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Just in case anyone is wondering......
I have swapped both my OEM and Aftermarket wheels on my '14 with the crappy, improper hub design, and it's worthless, studless Deutch style hub several times already......... both my OEM 20s and Aftermarket 18s are wearing brand name tires (Pirelli & Yokohoma), are properly balanced, and are in even wear condition. My summers could possibly be the original units (based on wear and manufacturing date).

I've been using the OEM bolts.
I've never used the alignment tool (haven't even checked if I had it in my kit)
I've never followed the TSB for SWS.
I've never used a torque wrench..... just a 24" breaker bar and common sense.
I've only properly cleaned my mating surfaces, used anti-seize, and used the typical star pattern tightening sequence.

I have yet to experience SWS, so for the life of me, I can't understand how so many are having this much trouble with SWS if you are using the proper bolts, hubcentric wheels, quality tires, alignment tool, TSB and torque specs
 

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I have yet to experience SWS, so for the life of me, I can't understand how so many are having this much trouble with SWS if you are using the proper bolts, hubcentric wheels, quality tires, alignment tool, TSB and torque specs
The only time I did was when a Pirelli Scorpian developed a lump.
 

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I am glad you haven't had a problem with SWS, but then there is that TSB and the problems that caused it to be published.
Manufacturing tolerance stack up, as I said.
The car I bought had the dreaded SWS and I was traveling when I traded. I jacked up the car at my son's house and followed the instructions and that problem was gone.
So it does exist and the TSB, at least in my case, fixed it.
I did not go through all the road force etc, just remounting per the instructions.
This and having two Jetta TDI Sportwagens with the bolted wheels for close to 300 K miles and 120 K miles on the other I have plenty of experience with them. I prefer studs over bolts. Your mileage may vary.
Personally I don't think that I will go the the expense and trouble to swap, but if I had to do much with bolts etc I would swap.
Easier, If you remove the bolts half the work is done.
 

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My point exactly... When you have bent wheels, defective tires, or whatever other issue, it's not the crappy T3 hub creating the problem.
And one other time when I was running non hub centric wheels on one of my BMWs.
Tightening the bolts fixed that.
 

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I am glad you haven't had a problem with SWS, but then there is that TSB and the problems that caused it to be published.
Manufacturing tolerance stack up, as I said.

Easier, If you remove the bolts half the work is done.
I have a T1 so all that TSB stuff doesn't apply to my car.

As I said earlier, I have 3 cars that use lug bolts and am a member of the respective forums; every one has members that claim issues with wheel shake.
It is my OPINION that closer care to wheel mounting eliminates any problem not related to dynamic damage of the wheel or tyre.

What I've said there is that some cars are more prone to wheel shake but it can for the most part be avoided.
 

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I ended up buying these https://www.ebay.com/itm/281313542340 and have replaced all 20 of my bolts with new ones. They were $85 shipped and appear to be identical other than the black paint. I had idea how long or frequently my original bolts had been overtightened and I was missing a few caps so this seemed the most economical choice other than studs and nuts (I prefer lug bolts since I've been using them for decades now). I have no affiliation with the listing.
 

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I ended up buying these https://www.ebay.com/itm/281313542340 and have replaced all 20 of my bolts with new ones. They were $85 shipped and appear to be identical other than the black paint. I had idea how long or frequently my original bolts had been overtightened and I was missing a few caps so this seemed the most economical choice other than studs and nuts (I prefer lug bolts since I've been using them for decades now). I have no affiliation with the listing.
Are swivel washers otherwise know as wobble bolts?

I personally have never seen a broken lug bolt but have busted plenty of studs - is this a thing?
 

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I didn't know what they were called until this thread so I can't answer your question. I just searched all over the place to match the same the washer appearance and did the best I could with the stated measurements. The ones I linked turned out to match the ones on my rig.

I didn't break any bolts. The locking ones were stripped out so after I removed those I was looking for 4 replacements. The remaining ones had been severely overtightened so there was no point in risking reusing them in case they had been compromised given the minimal price difference between 4 and 20.
 

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One thing I do know, after testing the Touareg recovery eye bolts to destruction,is that the factory metallurgy and forging is outstandingly strong. Let's just hope your inexpensive aftermarket bolts are strong enough for the weight and speed of the Touareg. Good luck.
 

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Well, let's hope. They're for a Porsche Cayenne and are the same 10.9 heat treated steel that VW claims theirs are. If the concern is one of fraud, that won't be resolved by buying anywhere other than a dealership and even that's not certain.

To label these "inexpensive aftermarket bolts" in the same vein as any random fastener on the internet is a bit of a stretch, imo. Although I found them reasonably affordable, I still wouldn't consider $5 bucks per bolt as cheap. There are VW OE bolts available elsewhere for half that, but the same issue arises whether they are legitimately what they claim to be.
 

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Just catching up on this thread.

SWS was nothing to do with aftermarket wheels and lugs as is well documented in a long thread on here.

SWS was a significant problem on Generation 2 T3 OEM wheels to the extent that VW bought back a lot of cars around the world though the biggest number of complaints probably arose in the US where Lemon Law made it much easier for frustrated/angry owners to kick back.

Initially, cars with SWS had all sorts of parts replaced including complete steering racks.

Then the factory fix was to do road force balances.

It worked for some but not others though it became clear later that car that this fix was probably down to the guy who carefully refitted the wheels afterwards!

VW HQ then got dealers to replace all 4 tires with Michelin Latitude Tour tires and road force balancing: again, that worked for some people but other folks' cars were still being declared lemons and repurchased.

And yet again, for those cars where it worked, it was probably down to the guy refitting the wheels!

The galling thing during the whole saga was that VW dealers and VWoA customer services would tell people whose cars had SWS, "Ooh, we've never heard of that problem before, Sir/Madam" which was, after a very short time, a blatant lie, and that went on even when the SWS issue was becoming common knowledge on sites such as this where owners could refer VW staff to the growing chorus of SWS complaints.

The reality is that someone in the design department had saved a Euro or two by shaving a few grams of steel off the hubs so wheels didn't always properly locate and the SWS issue was only properly fixed with the arrival of the TSB and the requirement for lugs to be carefully torqued to 133 [not 33!] ft lbs.
 

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Just catching up on this thread.

SWS was nothing to do with aftermarket wheels and lugs as is well documented in a long thread on here.

SWS was a significant problem on Generation 2 T3 OEM wheels to the extent that VW bought back a lot of cars around the world though the biggest number of complaints probably arose in the US where Lemon Law made it much easier for frustrated/angry owners to kick back.

Initially, cars with SWS had all sorts of parts replaced including complete steering racks.

Then the factory fix was to do road force balances.

It worked for some but not others though it became clear later that car that this fix was probably down to the guy who carefully refitted the wheels afterwards!

VW HQ then got dealers to replace all 4 tires with Michelin Latitude Tour tires and road force balancing: again, that worked for some people but other folks' cars were still being declared lemons and repurchased.

And yet again, for those cars where it worked, it was probably down to the guy refitting the wheels!

The galling thing during the whole saga was that VW dealers and VWoA customer services would tell people whose cars had SWS, "Ooh, we've never heard of that problem before, Sir/Madam" which was, after a very short time, a blatant lie, and that went on even when the SWS issue was becoming common knowledge on sites such as this where owners could refer VW staff to the growing chorus of SWS complaints.

The reality is that someone in the design department had saved a Euro or two by shaving a few grams of steel off the hubs so wheels didn't always properly locate and the SWS issue was only properly fixed with the arrival of the TSB and the requirement for lugs to be carefully torqued to 133 [not 33!] ft lbs.

Great post, factual and to the point......sadly we need more such posts on a variety of subjects that are neverendingly debated !

TonyB
 

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SWS was nothing to do with aftermarket wheels and lugs as is well documented in a long thread on here.
Fantastic misinformation!
So if I were to use an aftermarket wheel with XX CB instead of 71.5mm CB, which also happened to have conical seats for the mounting holes..... which feature would correctly locate my wheel on the hub?

Great post, factual and to the point......sadly we need more such posts on a variety of subjects that are neverendingly debated !

So let's assume that I'm the delusional one in this whole debate.
Can some of you TSB fanatics please provide me with a feasible explanation of how it's possible for me to not use the TSB or a TQ wrench, and install aftermarket rims on the same "cheap design hub", and still not have SWS?

Please only use your facts and TSB references when explaining this phenomenon.

Also, for anyone else who claims that a 3 segment hub is not accurate in locating a bore (vs your full circumference hub), please go look at your standard 3 jaw chuck on a lathe..... it's the same basic design, used on a machine tool that is used to turn accurate parts in the manufacturing industry....

If the 3 equally spared out segments can't accurately locate a circular feature, I guess mankind has yet to manufacture a circular feature, and we are all driving around on "Flistones Wheels", so this whole debate is pointless all together.
 

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.

The reality is that someone in the design department had saved a Euro or two by shaving a few grams of steel off the hubs so wheels didn't always properly locate and the SWS issue was only properly fixed with the arrival of the TSB and the requirement for lugs to be carefully torqued to 133 [not 33!] ft lbs.
So does that mean that the wheels aren't truly hub centric then?
Probably to make them easier to to get on and off.

I sometimes have to kick the wheels off my Saab and BMW because they stick to the hub.
Yes, they are cleaned and lightly greased, just tight. Factory wheels..
 

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Even if they shaved the hub a bit so there is clearance?
The "shaving" you're quoting is referring to using three points of contact rather than more metal (like four points of contact or a full ring). He wasn't claiming VW shaved anything from the circumference.
 
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