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Regarding the rear axle locker retrofit, some months ago, I started it and made it work. I planned to let you guys know about the details and tricks as soon as it finished, and for it, I have some useful images (will post it later). Though, I haven't yet got the chance to replace the heavy rear diff as I need a second person's help (it is tested on the ground and the locker locks the axle).
Excellent. Looking very forward to your info. What year are the parts out of / what year is your treg?
 

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Hi there,

As I said I am not completely done with the real testing of differential lock retrofit but here is the way to retrofit real axle locker on Touareg 7L. I suppose similar procedure should be taken for Porsche Cayenne 9PA/1 and maybe maybe for 7P Touaregs.

I split the descriptions into a few chunks since I can not attach more than 10 Images. Here is part 1.

You need the following parts to start:

1. An original rear differential with onboard electromotor. It is not possible to change the ordinary diff to a locking one (see image below). Please make sure to buy the appropriate part for your car. For it consult with etka.

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2. The diff controller module which is known as J647 (e.g. 0AC927771).

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You find it typically without the covering black plastic on eBay which is fine.

3. The differential lock selector knob (e.g. 7L6941435S).

View attachment 233294

4. Wires and harnesses.

View attachment 233295 View attachment 233296

I suggest buying the whole doner car wires and harnesses and extract the required wires. You would have then enough wire supply for your lifetime projects ;). Otherwise, it should be done by yourself.

View attachment 233299

5. Maybe, you need to replace the axle shafts, based on the model of your Touareg and the diff model you are replacing. Please make sure to consult with etka to see if you need it or1 not. The rear diff with a locker in some versions is 1cm longer than the one without.

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Having the parts prepared, you can make your hands dirty by removing the rear left and the floor panels from the trunk. You can start off by pulling up the chrome panel on the bottom and pulling down the upper frame plastic panel. There will be also some screws on the left side to unscrew. The left seat must also be released by unscrewing and removing its holder frame from the floor.

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Removing the panels will expose the main left wiring loom. This is where we have to start the surgery and also where to install the controller module. But now we need the wiring diagram to know how to proceed. Below the complete wiring diagrams of the diff locker as pdf is attached. The most relevant diagrams are on page 6 and 7. I have it only in German but maybe you can either translate it or find an English equivalent of it.

From the diagrams, you can understand that:

a. Three positive power line comes from the driver side fuse box to the controller: Fuse No. 22, 23 and 47.
b. The ground connection from the car body (it can be branched from the wiring loom).
c. A big branch of wires goes from the controller to the locking differential to supply the step-motor of the diff locker and also bring the sensor data from the locker (e.g. temperature sensor).
d. Some controlling wires (data-bus high, data-bus low, parking-brake status, diagnose wire no. 1) need to be connected to the controller.
e. All wires come through the T47c harness to the controller. (This connector is the same as of the center-diff controller module, J646, under the passenger seat).


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Regarding a: If your car is equipped with the electric truck lid, the cable connected to fuse No. 22 is already available in the loom. If it is not you have to thread it. The other two cables must also be threaded. Please note that fuses 22 (red/yellow) and 23(red/green) have always power while fuse No. 47 (red/blue) gets activated with acc switch on.

Regarding b: There is a thick brown wire in the loom which is connected to the ground. You can connect all ground connections to it.

Regarding c: This branch should pass through the car floor to the diff locker. There are two connectors, a 2 pin connector and a 10 pin one.

Regarding d: I suggest threading them to under the front passenger's seat where you can connect them to the similar wires connected to the J646, the middle locker controller.

continued in part 2.
 

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has anyone successfully tried this? Anyone have any wiring diagrams. I'm looking at an 08 v8 without locker and it looks like too good a price given the options to pass up on. I would be interested in trying this...seems like we need the controller, switch, diff itself and Axels. Then just VAGCOM program. Anyone know any info on the coding? Also the wiring seems to be a mystery. I would not mind taking something like this on but just need some more info.
Let me know if you’re serious about doing this. I have everything out of a V8 car to do the conversion. Including the entire body wiring harness.
 

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Part 2 of the retrofit:

For some reasons, the images from the last posts did do not appear while you can still see them in the preview.

Cut gently the wire tapes on the left side loom and solder the grounds to and tape the 47 pin connector with its connecting wires to the main loom:

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to have the following:

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Then install the controller into its designated place:

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Next, you have to pull up the floor mat of under the rear seats. Pay attention, not to damage the massive sponge under the floor.

There is a channel which some other cables (I suppose fuel-pump) are going through the floor to the underbody:

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here is the view from underbody:

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The cables to the diff locker should pass through this channel. However, the harnesses are big to pass through it. You need to cut the wires halfway, pass them through the rubber, resolder the wires, tape them, and seal the rubber again:


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These two connectors from the underbody will be fed to the diff locker motor:



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will be continued ..
 

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Part 3 of retrofit

The next step is to connect the controlling wires to the car. As I said there are four tiny wires:
CANbus high (orange/black)
CANbus low (orange/brown)
parking-brake status (purple/white)
diagnose wire no. 1 (brown/white)

Luckily, the middle diff controller also requires these wires. The only thing you should do is to thread the wires to the J646 controller under the front passenger seat and connect the wires:

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You can thread this wire from under the carpet to the controller but I confess it was one of the most time taking of the project!


The following step would be to thread the positive wires from the controller to the fuse box. As mentioned,
they are fuses 22 (red/yellow) and 23(red/green), and 47 (red/blue). Put the fuse on its position and do not use other blank spots in the fusebox because some are connected to the switch and some are directly connected to the battery. You can pass the wires under the plastic trims in the inner side of the door frame and b-pillar.



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Now the settings almost ready. You need to replace the locker selector knob.
Consult this video to learn how to remove the middle panel:


The car onboard computer will detect the diff module on address 032.

You can now test the locker by placing the differential on the ground and connecting the hanging harnesses to it.

I have heard that one needs also to activate the locking diff in the address 09 but I haven't seen any documentation or coding guide for this purpose.
 

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Very cool. I'm in the process of retrofitting the locking transfercase and rear diff to my 2015 Touareg TDI.



You shouldn't have to change anything in 09, but you'll probably have to update the installation list in 19 CAN gateway.
 

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Do you think the modules are different for retrofitting an 08? Would I be able to use 04-06 donor parts on an 08?
Rear diff modules are the same for all 2003-2010.
 

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Thanks for the write up. What do you mean about activating the diff in the address 09?

You're welcome. Different controllers/modules communicate through a network (CANBus). For this network to work properly, every module has a pre-assigned address. There we have:


Address 01: Engine
Address 02: Auto Trans
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth.
Address 06: Seat Mem. Pass
Address 08: Auto HVAC
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Address 11: Engine II
Address 15: Airbags
Address 16: Steering wheel
Address 17: Instruments
Address 18: Aux. Heat
Address 19: CAN Gateway
Address 22: AWD
Address 32: Locker
Address 34: Level Control
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr
Address 46: Central Conv.
Address 47: Sound System
Address 55: Headlight Range
Address 68: Wiper Electr.
Address 6D: Trunk Electr.
Address 76: Park Assist
Address 77: Telephone

You can access each module and manipulate/read its values/thresholds by giving its address to the scanning software (such as VCDS or ODIS). So answering your question, 09 is the central electric module.
 

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Very cool. I'm in the process of retrofitting the locking transfercase and rear diff to my 2015 Touareg TDI.



You shouldn't have to change anything in 09, but you'll probably have to update the installation list in 19 CAN gateway.

Cool, good luck!

Address 19 makes more sense.
 

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Out of curiosity, when are you guys finding that you can benefit from these "hard core" retrofits?
Or are you just doing this for bragging rights and fun stuff?

The OEM system is fairly decent in my opinion in getting though most of the stuff that a typical owner would encounter on their way to a cottage, across some fields, driving in adverse conditions, etc. I would even go as far as saying that you can do some decent offroading (trail stuff, not rock crawling) with the open diffs.

Now I'm not knocking these upgrades, becasue I'd want them too.... but I just don't know if I'd ever make user of them..... I basically cringe if I'm driving on anything other than a paved surface with my Touareg, so I can't think of taking it into a river or a mud hole to bury it up to it's headlights in muck.....

Or do you guys all live up on mountains without roads? LOL
 

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Out of curiosity, when are you guys finding that you can benefit from these "hard core" retrofits?
Or are you just doing this for bragging rights and fun stuff?
I'm doing these retrofits because I don't like how decontented the T3 is, and I've always performed "euro mods" on the majority of my cars. On my first car, a 2001 Jetta VR6 GLX that I had 12 years ago, I made it "euro spec" by retrofitting pretty much everything - 4Motion, blue-tinted photochromic glass, seats, HID headlamps, bodywork, etc.

On my 2015, I use all my retrofits pretty much daily, so there's definitely no loss of money there. I'll definitely be using the locking centre diff and high-low transfercase portion quite frequently as I venture off into logging roads, trails, sandy beaches, etc every weekend. The rear locking diff I probably won't use as much, but I figure I might as well install the complete package.

Plus I just love to tinker, can't keep anything stock. :unsure:
 
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