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Discussion Starter #1
Starting the project to get the rear hatch to stay up and I've ordered the struts and the shock:

So a pair of these: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/7l6845587a
And a pair of these:https://www.amazon.com/Touareg-04-06-Hatch-Shock-Space/dp/B00HWO64ZW

And after viewing a few videos - I think this one is the best:

Well all is going fairly well when I got one of the original struts out - the difference is shown in pics below - with the shorter strut (bottom in pic) being the original and the longer being the part 7L6 845 587A (top) - notice the letter 'A' on the end of the model I purchased from Autohaus. Well, in calling the dealer, they said some older parts get renamed/replaced for one reason or another and that indeed, the original part I pulled out does not have the letter 'A' but they don't make that one anymore. Now I'm not sure if that's related to reason why the aftermarket part is so much longer but I guess the only solution is to get an OEM from the dealer (it has the 'A' on it as well) an pray it fits.

The new 'A' part is 13" and the original that I need is 9.5". The thicker portion on the right side of the shock is 8.75" vs 6" on the original.

Has anyone run into this problem?
 

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Starting the project to get the rear hatch to stay up and I've ordered the struts and the shock:

So a pair of these: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/7l6845587a
And a pair of these:https://www.amazon.com/Touareg-04-06-Hatch-Shock-Space/dp/B00HWO64ZW

And after viewing a few videos - I think this one is the best:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Dz6iRRFVe0

Well all is going fairly well when I got one of the original struts out - the difference is shown in pics below - with the shorter strut (bottom in pic) being the original and the longer being the part 7L6 845 587A (top) - notice the letter 'A' on the end of the model I purchased from Autohaus. Well, in calling the dealer, they said some older parts get renamed/replaced for one reason or another and that indeed, the original part I pulled out does not have the letter 'A' but they don't make that one anymore. Now I'm not sure if that's related to reason why the aftermarket part is so much longer but I guess the only solution is to get an OEM from the dealer (it has the 'A' on it as well) an pray it fits.

The new 'A' part is 13" and the original that I need is 9.5". The thicker portion on the right side of the shock is 8.75" vs 6" on the original.

Has anyone run into this problem?
Can you check the fully retracted lengths and extended lengths of each as it looks like the old strut never gets fully retracted as it has crap on the shaft built up.






regards
Drag
 

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Can you check the fully retracted lengths and extended lengths of each as it looks like the old strut never gets fully retracted as it has crap on the shaft built up.






regards
Drag

If you look at the YouTube video the guys struts he removed look like the ones you have been supplied not the ones you removed .


regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Maybe that's the issue but regardless, the rear door won't stay open so I'm going to try and replace them. I ordered the "correct" part from the dealer this week so stay tuned.

On another note, I stripped the left side screw that is located above the rear window (in the trunk, not the rear passenger window) - any thoughts on how to get a stripped screw out of there?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've encountered quite the conundrum and would love some input from you guys.

I've now purchased 2 sets of the replacement shock - an aftermarket and now OEM's. They replacement parts are always 3.5" longer than the original. Extended they are almost exact but retracted, 3.5" off. I've included pictures.

On the top, you have the VIN-based replacement part: 7L6 845 587A and underneath, the original: 7L6 845 587. The first picture is with the original arm retracted (since the new part doesn't move at all) and the second is with it fully extended. The third pic is of the part # (original on the bottom). The thicker portion of the original part is 6", the new part 8.75."

Has no one else run into this problem? There's no physical way a shock 3.5" longer than the original can fit into the space. The weird thing too is that the replacement spring that sits right next to it is exactly the same size.
 

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I've encountered quite the conundrum and would love some input from you guys.

I've now purchased 2 sets of the replacement shock - an aftermarket and now OEM's. They replacement parts are always 3.5" longer than the original. Extended they are almost exact but retracted, 3.5" off. I've included pictures.

On the top, you have the VIN-based replacement part: 7L6 845 587A and underneath, the original: 7L6 845 587. The first picture is with the original arm retracted (since the new part doesn't move at all) and the second is with it fully extended. The third pic is of the part # (original on the bottom). The thicker portion of the original part is 6", the new part 8.75."

Has no one else run into this problem? There's no physical way a shock 3.5" longer than the original can fit into the space. The weird thing too is that the replacement spring that sits right next to it is exactly the same size.

I will repeat what I said above.
- Seems like the fully extended length of both is the same ??
- What is the fully retracted length of the new unit 7L6 845 587A. I presume it is hard to retract as it is new and still pressurized ? But you need this measurement.
- What is the length of the fully retracted original unit 7L6 845 587?


- Compare these 2 measurement for each.


Its all about the fully extended length and full retracted length comparison measurements visual differences don't matter. Both are 550N struts, presume both have the same size attachment sockets?




Regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can't fully extend the new one, it's pressurized and that really doesn't make a difference since the retracted shock is what goes into the slot. It would only extend to hold the door up but since it goes into the slot retracted, that is the issue I'm having. The ball slots on each side are about 3" off and that's where the shock needs to fit. If it doesn't fit retracted, it's certainly not going to fit extended. I hope I'm being clear.
 

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I can't fully extend the new one, The new strut is already fully extended !! They extend out under pressure not retract! it's pressurized and that really doesn't make a difference since the retracted shock is what goes into the slot. It would only extend to hold the door up but since it goes into the slot retracted, Why does it go in the slot retracted, you would fit them to the pins in the cavity with the hatch raised! that is the issue I'm having. The ball slots on each side are about 3" off but they are not when measured in the fully retracted position for both, and the fully extended position for both, keep in mind the new strut is already fully extended due to internal pressure and that's where the shock needs to fit. If it doesn't fit retracted, it's certainly not going to fit extended. I hope I'm being clear. I hope I'm being clear too



regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So here's the issue - when I removed the old strut, it would only fit retracted. If I extended it - it would be the same exact length of the new shock (which you're telling me comes extended) and thus, not fit.

Looks like the solution is a simple one: figure out a way to RETRACT the new shocks and we're in business.

Now, how do I do that? I've tried pushing them in but they don't budge.
 

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So here's the issue - when I removed the old strut, it would only fit retracted. I If I extended it - it would be the same exact length of the new shock (which you're telling me comes extended) and thus, not fit.

Looks like the solution is a simple one: figure out a way to RETRACT the new shocks Not a chance in hell to hold any strut in the compressed/retracted position to fit it and we're in business.


They will need to be fitted in the extended state

Now, how do I do that? I've tried pushing them in but they don't budge.



I'm sorry but something is missing


Regards
Drag
 

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With rear hatch open the strut should pop in over the balls. You have to release the metal clips on the two ends partially otherwise they wont pop in over the ball.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Missing? Like a part? Like I said, the solution seems simple enough
 

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I encountered the same problem with my 2004 V6 Touareg. The struts that I removed had serial numbers ending in the letter A. When I ordered replacements asking for letter A, they arrived about 3 inches too short. I called a seller who deals in VW parts and he said that the letter A became C, became F, became J, became L, became N. I ordered a pair of letter Ns and they were exactly the same length that I needed. This is just another example of the engineers at VW staying up all night to figure out how to make their cars as impossible to work on as they can. In order to keep sane, or nearly so, I attribute this to keeping my brain sharp as I get older. Up to the point where it will simply burst into flame. Okay, I'm over it now; NOT!
 

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I have had this problem when I came to change the struts. The gas struts only open the glass section of the rear door. There are two large springs that open the main tailgate and it was these that needed replacing. If your tailgate doesn't stay open it's the springs. If your glass
section doesn't stay open it's the struts. They both have the same part numbers...really helpful.
 

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I haven't removed any trim to check yet but would the hatch opening normally to the halfway position be the sign of a collapsed strut or would there be a reason to believe that one might not be properly connected? Has this ever happened in the history of these cars?
(Ultimately looking to avoid the sting of $80 per strut)
 

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You need new struts.
 
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