Getting the trailer level isn't as important on a single axle trailer. The forces transmitted are nearly the same as a straight trailer, just at a slight angle due to the cant at the trailer ball. The cosine of small angles is nearly 1 so not much difference. e.g. cos(5 deg) = 0.996, so tilted at 5 degrees there's only a 0.4% deviation from a straight trailer. Proper weight distribution fore/aft of the trailer's axle is more important (to prevent sway).
Getting the trailer level is crucial on a dual axle trailer. The angle the trailer sits at determines the weight distribution between the trailer's front and rear axles. If it's flat, it's close to 50/50 (after subtracting the weight supported by the hitch). As you tilt it up or down, you shift the weight towards the rear or front axle respectively. This can lead to you exceeding an individual axle's weight rating just having the trailer hooked up to your car. e.g. If the hitch were high enough, the front wheels would be off the ground (zero weight), and the rear wheels would be bearing all the weight. If you look on the trailer's spec sticker, it should tell you the optimal ball height.
I really wish I had an air suspension for this reason, since hitch height varies with load and each (dual axle) trailer has its own optimal height. But it was no longer an option in the U.S. when I got my Treg. I had to guess how much sag there would be and buy a ball mount with a rise to counteract it.
A WDH compensates for this by more tightly coupling the trailer and tow vehicle in pitch. But does so by transmitting torques through the hitch, which VW never considered when designing the hitch and frame. Hence their recommendation not to use a WDH - they literally don't know what will happen. Based on the numerous user reports of using a WDH and lack of user stories of the rear of their car's unibody construction bending, it seems to work. But just be aware that's all anecdotal evidence, and no engineering calculations have been done to verify it's OK.