You will eliminate the filter drain plug but the real mess is when you pull the filter housing so doesnt really seem worth the trouble.

 

Even if you let it drain a few minutes? I haven't done an oil change yet so I cannot really judge. I only watched a video.
On my other car, an Audi, I use an Audi tool to empty the filter first, let it drain and then open the cap. easy and clean.

 

I like where your head’s at, but I have to agree with Jeffnhiscars on this. Even if you drain the filter for an hour there will be residual oil left in the bottom of the cap. You have to turn the cap on it’s side to wangle it by the giant die cast motor mount and oil pan and in doing that will surely drool this residual oil everywhere. I really miss the oil filter right on top of the 3.0tdi block, the one on the 3.6 FSI is a pain in the back side.

 

I See. But it will make the job cleaner The first oil rush goes directly to a bottle.
I guess the steps would be:
Open the valve or remove the plug
Let it drain
Unscrew the cap till it can be unscrrewed by hand (don't unscrew it completely with the wrench)
Take a plastic bag and put it around the filter
Finish unscrewing the filter cap by hand over the plastic bag and remove the cap with the plastic bag all around the filer.
No mess I guess

 

There is a quick Disconnect from Aeroquip that you screw into the bottom of the sump and it stays there. The other side is attached to a suitable hose and when you want to drain the oil, you just unscrew the little cap and plug in the other part of the QD. I will see if I can get you the Earoquip part number

 

TRespect
AER-FBM3126_ml is the Aeroquip part number.
I know you are trying to drain the oil filter, but you might spec the thread on the bottom of the oil filter bowl to get the right Aeroquip quick disconnect assembly.
I know the 2010 Touareg and later model use an M14 thread on the sump so if you want to drain the oil quickly with no mess then 2 QD’s would work. I use them on all my competition cars.

 

I know it's a bit of work but why not remote mount the filter? The filter on my 88 GTI-16V was a pain to change for the same reasons. A little block off plate with two holes tapped for AN fittings, some stainless-braided teflon hose and a good old Fram filter solved the problem. Someone probably already has a kit for that but even if they don't it would be easy to piece together.

Good luck!

 

I'm with Respect on this. I only drive my Touareg enough to change my oil about once a year. So I just changed my oil yesterday and WHAT A MESS!! Even using the drain plug creates a mess, with spider drips everywhere, all over my hands etc. I have tried to get a flexible funnel in there, but to no avail. However with a solid way to drain the housing, you are only left with a few ounces of un-drained oil in it. I'll take that any day. With the housing off I determined the plug threads are VERY VERY close to 1/4" FNPT. So close in fact that I fitted a brass 1/4" close nipple, and a 1/4 FNPT ball valve. The only issue with after I drain is that I have to remove the valve assembly before I can use the filter housing socket, and install it again after I re-install. Again only changing it once a year it is a non-issue for me. I ran the car at idle and took it for a cruise at higher oil pressure, and no leaks. Now that the drain plug is out of the housing, I can spend some time looking for the exact MM size (any help on that would be appreciated BTW). Not sure if the Fumoto comes in different sizes....

 

good news there
Yes the fumoto valves come in different sizes and threads. You can contact fumoto to inquire about the valve corresponding to the thread of the oil filter plug.
As for removing the oil cap with the valve on I think you can find a way to make a sparkplug-like deep socket.
Let us know how it goes. Testing requires another oil change so I'm not sure you will be doing this before I do mine.
I will do mine in 2 or 3 months.
I have already talked to fumoto UK for my recent quick drain valve purchase for the touareg. I will talk to them about this and get back to you here.

 

36mm deep socket for oil filter : https://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-2036MD-Drive-Socket/dp/B002YKK248

If you have enough room.

 

I would like to know how many people are interested in this so I can talk to fumoto UK and ask them to test and provide the right quick drain plug, probably with an adaptor.
The filter housing is at 49€. If I want them to do something I have two options: ask them to get a filter housing from VW and test it or send them a filter housing myself. I think they would be more willing to invest the 49€ if I tell them I have n number of people interested in the solution.

 

Looks like the housing drain plug is 14x1.5....wait..I think that is the same as the pan drain plug...Stand by. So yes it is. Looks like the standard Fumoto with the extension fitting will work just fine (threads are recessed in the housing slightly). Still will have the same issue of having to take off the valve before being able to get the socket on. Now that I think about it the Fumoto comes with a gasket to seal it to the pan. If this isn't a tapered thread on the Fumoto or on the housing, then it will need to seal with a gasket or o-ring. Not sure if that's gonna work. UGH looks like more research is needed. This is prob why this hasnt yet been done.

 

The fumoto plugs are a seal and forget type. they don't like being removed/reinstalled.
did you see my 36mm deep socket?
I think this will solve the drain plug seal issue.
If the filter housing plug seat is recessed ou can add a 5$ adaptor to install the valve.

https://www.amazon.com/ADP-106-Fumo...4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1514060834&sr=1-1&keywords=fumoto+adapter

 

So this is the quick drain valve to use (same as the oil pan):
F106S - Engine Oil Drain Valve with Short Nipple 14mm-1.5 | FUMOTO

 

if there is not enough room (due to the valve lever) there is another option: the stahlbus valve:

Oil drain valves - Bleeding brakes - simply intelligent oil change, leakfree disconnect lines! Our solution: The stahlbus Bleeder Valve, the stahlbus Oil drain valve and the stahlbus Quick disconnect coupling.

 

More pics:

 

But I prefer the fumato since you don't need to worry about the additional plug used to push back the ball.

 

Yeah I'm not sure the deep well socket have enough I.D to clear the lever on the Fumoto. I think the stahlbus would work better with the deep well.


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Lets not overlook the fact that the OE drain plug has an O ring whereas the fumitomo et al seems to have a flange washer. Some due diligence to confirm a good seal should be done since oil containment is not something any of us want to compromise.

 

I installed the new fumoto oil drain plug and it has an O-ring.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106sx.html

Thread size is 14MM-1.5.

Back to the oil filter solution
I received the stahlbus oil drain blug, same size as the Treg oil drain plug.
I will be installing it on the oil filter next month. This is gonna be the first oil filter change since I bought the car.
I didn't replace the filter when I installed the fumoto plug as I couldn't find the oil filter socket.
I will update with the result when the job is done.

 

Correct. That's why I was talking about the lack of tapered fittings on the housing and drain valves. I don't think the Fumoto is a tapered fitting because it relys on the gasket to seal. The benefit to my "temp" fix is the nipple I installed is a tapered fitting, and with petroleum resident Teflon it was a positive seal (so far)


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here is a guy who dealt with this when buying a billet filter cap from ecs. He uses this wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/LZM-1021-004-0-36MM-Filter-Wrench/dp/B01FE5PIBG

I'm pasting his comment on the ecs website (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-par...cs-parts/billet-aluminum-oil-filter-housing-kit-silver-anodized/003602ecs01a01a) here:

Funny thing is ecs guys went into the trouble of designing the cap without thinking of replicating valve inside the oem cap !!! or adding something to make it easier for the customer to drain the filter, like the guy who designed it never did an oil change in his life

I have heard little mention on the web of the Fumoto oil drain valve being used as an oil filter housing drain so I thought I'd relay my DIY experiences.

The Audi 2.0 turbo (BPY) engine uses that plastic housing rather than a disposable spin on filter. This works okay for a while but with age the plastic housing can crack and leak. Mine became ���grabby��� at the threads and was very hard to remove. Removal of the plastic housing normally requires a special six-point 36mm low-profile socket and special drain tool.

I replaced the plastic housing with the ECS billet aluminum housing. The part is very finely machined, high quality and robust. I am impressed.

The original plastic housing has an integral drain valve built in. I liked this feature and wanted to replicate it as it makes the task of draining the housing much cleaner. The ECS aluminum housing does not have this valve but has a drain port with conventional screw-in drain plug.

BTW, I use a marine engine oil vacuum extractor to drain the filter and the oil pan (via the dipstick tube) all done from above rather than having to crawl under the car.

I purchased a model F-106N Fumoto valve with the same thread as the drain port, M14 X 1.5. It mated with the new housing perfectly. However the Fumoto valve is in the way of a 36mm socket, so I now use a 36mm oil filter wrench by Level Zero Motorsports, part no. LZM 1021-004-0 (via Amazon). This box-end wrench (just) clears the Fumoto valve body to gain access to the wrench-able hex section of the housing. This whole system works nicely, an oil/filter change now takes me less than 20 minutes.

 

here is a guy who dealt with this when buying a billet filter cap from ecs. He uses this wrench:

https://www.amazon.com/LZM-1021-004-0-36MM-Filter-Wrench/dp/B01FE5PIBG



I'm pasting his comment on the ecs website (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-par...cs-parts/billet-aluminum-oil-filter-housing-kit-silver-anodized/003602ecs01a01a) here:



Funny thing is ecs guys went into the trouble of designing the cap without thinking of replicating valve inside the oem cap !!! or adding something to make it easier for the customer to drain the filter, like the guy who designed it never did an oil change in his life



I have heard little mention on the web of the Fumoto oil drain valve being used as an oil filter housing drain so I thought I'd relay my DIY experiences.



The Audi 2.0 turbo (BPY) engine uses that plastic housing rather than a disposable spin on filter. This works okay for a while but with age the plastic housing can crack and leak. Mine became ���grabby��� at the threads and was very hard to remove. Removal of the plastic housing normally requires a special six-point 36mm low-profile socket and special drain tool.



I replaced the plastic housing with the ECS billet aluminum housing. The part is very finely machined, high quality and robust. I am impressed.



The original plastic housing has an integral drain valve built in. I liked this feature and wanted to replicate it as it makes the task of draining the housing much cleaner. The ECS aluminum housing does not have this valve but has a drain port with conventional screw-in drain plug.



BTW, I use a marine engine oil vacuum extractor to drain the filter and the oil pan (via the dipstick tube) all done from above rather than having to crawl under the car.



I purchased a model F-106N Fumoto valve with the same thread as the drain port, M14 X 1.5. It mated with the new housing perfectly. However the Fumoto valve is in the way of a 36mm socket, so I now use a 36mm oil filter wrench by Level Zero Motorsports, part no. LZM 1021-004-0 (via Amazon). This box-end wrench (just) clears the Fumoto valve body to gain access to the wrench-able hex section of the housing. This whole system works nicely, an oil/filter change now takes me less than 20 minutes.

Hugely helpful. That wrench looks like a nice idea, however using a socket with long extension would be easier. Plus getting correct torque with that wrench would be impossible. Found the stahlbus valve on Amazon, with a dimensional drawing. Looks like there will be enough I.D. available in the deep well socket for the filter housing to not have to take the valve on and off each time. What I would really like to do is get the valve and source a filter housing from a part out and mock it up before the next oil change.


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By the way I came across this comment while trying to find out if the TT MK2 filter cap can fit the Treg. Apparently not. Still the TT filter cap need the Audi drain tool. The fumoto would be the ultimate solution.

 

Guys are selling a filter cap for Toyota with a fumoto like valve:
https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

Socket was upgraded to have enough room for the valve.

 

⬆this is killer! Just what we were hoping it would look like.


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yes stahlbus + a copper washer + some RTV sealant if you really want to go die hard and forget about it.
I used an RTV sealant to seal the vaccum pump on the Audi and it's been holding there for 33.000 km.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rtv-Profes...sket-Maker-Red-High-Temp-Sealant-85g-3oz-Tube-/272947637727?hash=item3f8cf26ddf