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Discussion Starter #1
Everyone,

I am new to the Forum, new to the Touareg's plus this is my first VW. First of all your forum has already been super helpfull dealing with some speaker wiring issues and seat reset adjustments, and adding ADblue. Now I am ready for some DIY and just noticed a problem.

I bought my touareg used with the running boards shown on the images. Love how they look. The are labeled as a VW part but I just noticed that I can't use the emergency jack if I get a flat. It won't fit with the running boards. If you look at the images you will see that the way the jack works requires it to sit high and close to the vehicle to lift and the running board won't let it. On top of that it seems that the front area of the running board is bolted to what I think is the front jacking point. Any suggestions on a jack that will work for on the road emergencies. In the mean time, I threw in a tire repair injection kit and pump which I have used in the past very succesfully while offroading but usually its nice even when using that to be able to jack the car up to find the hole.

Images:
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=8A471FD851A6C444!9273&authkey=!APd_ya-4tlPS6X4&ithint=folder%2cjpg


Also, when I bought the car it was missing the user manual so I don't have a good image of where to jack but am just going of what I've read in the forum. My questions are:

1- What can I use as an emergency jack? Removing the board for changing a tire on an emergency is stupid and difficult. It has hex screws and I briefly tried to see how easy they would come off and they are hard in there. Might have even started to strip from the force.

2- I have a 3.5 ton trolley floor jack that I can use while in the house for DIY. Where should jack go to then place jack stands?

3- Where can I get a copy of a manual? Maybe a PDF or at least a service one which should have that kind of stuff too.

That's at again this is a great forum. Keep it up.
 

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First off welcome to CT.

As I understand it: There is a different jack for models with running boards. Go to dealer and get the right one.

The illustration below shows the floor jack, jack points. Both are circled in a dotted line. The rear is more obvious in person (has a rubber pad), the front I have always found a bit odd because it is sort of "up in" the plastic shield a bit.

An owners manual is a dealer or perhaps Amazon item. I do not know if a PDF version even exists.

Bentley publishing I believe is the producer of the best repair manual...only available in pdf.
 

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What are the meaning of the arrows in the images??
Do not jack under the frame mounting bushes, as it will damage them!

Stuart...
 

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I struggled with the arrows as I don't have a key in front of me. They are used inconsistently in the schematic. Stick to the areas circled in dotted line and you will be ok. Like Hedditch said don't jack in the frame mounting bushings (these look like a large bolt and washer when peering under there and are close by).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jack stand and jacking points

Since I have not heard any answers for placing jack stands but only for jacking up the car I did some searching and found this:

Jacking Up the Porsche Cayenne | 2003-2008 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

What do you all think about this?

I was not able to find anything for the Touareg but I know a lot of people work the Cayenne and the Q7 and the frames should be similar. The search led me to this.

I think it is reasonable to lift a car at any reinforced point on the frame. Even mounting point on the back for the transmission makes sense and the mounting points marked by the arrows should also be very strong. The only point I am not sold out on is when he lifts the Cayenne from the side of the cross-member. The cross-member for the Touareg looks less robust to me than what is shown for the Cayenne. For the front, I am considering jacking up from where the arrow is on the above images to place the jack stands on the reinforced frame circled area.

So, I know this sort of contradicts what hedditch said before and that is why I want to see what everyone thinks. If what he does for the cayenne is safe then this should solve a lot of the problems of jacking up and placing jack stands.
 

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1- What can I use as an emergency jack? Removing the board for changing a tire on an emergency is stupid and difficult. It has hex screws and I briefly tried to see how easy they would come off and they are hard in there. Might have even started to strip from the force.
After my flat tire experience, i did 2 things:

1 - Ordered 4 replacement lug nuts from VW. Removed the locking lugs nuts, and threw them and the key in the trash can. The design is poor, and the propensity to strip is high. I had to use an impact wrench to get all 4 of them off.

2 - Purchased an inexpensive bottle jack (Harbor Freight) to keep in the back, along with a few blocks of wood. The emergency jack is a joke to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
182RG, Thanks for the feedback. Seems like that would be the work around with the running boards.

Going back to the jack stands topic. From what I have read, I am not a fan of placing the stands on the bushings because a lot of people say don't do it. But I don't know why. If I can lift from the side mounting cross-member and from the subframe by the differential mount like done on the cayenne link above, that solves the problem of lifting one side or the back, because I can place jack stands at the recommended jacking points.

However, I still have not figured out where to jack the front and avoid the bushings. The crossmember might work but it is pretty far back and with the weight of the engine, I'm not sold out on that yet.
 

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However, I still have not figured out where to jack the front and avoid the bushings. The crossmember might work but it is pretty far back and with the weight of the engine, I'm not sold out on that yet.
The Pelican writeup seems pretty accurate. You might want to try the crossmember and see what the weight balance is. It might work to get a jack stand under it.

As far as the frame bushings go, I've seen numerous articles where these are used on a regular basis. I'm guessing the concern in protruding the top of a jack or jack stand into the bushing and damaging it. If you used a flat block of wood, or a flat stand/jack, I don't see where it would create any problems.

Since I use one of these, I've never faced this question. If you want to do a lot of your own work, they are worth their weight in gold:

 

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+1 on the cross member for jack stand. Very stable for one side at a time. Keep as close to main frame member (where it bolts into). I wouldn't do both left and right this way...reverse for that with jack points.

I am a little reluctant to jack in the center of the rear subframe. Seems unstable in my mind (not to mention 2x the weight). Anyone done this? I would love to be able to get jack stands under the side jack points in the rear.

I always leave the floor jack under with about half the weight on the jack stand and half on the floor jack...that way if I need to lift just a hair it is ready to go...plus seems more stable with two touch points.
 

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I wouldn't add anything on top of a jack (like wood). A rolled up newspaper is likely ok, but nothing that can cause the jack / car to slip out from contact. Please be careful here. You don't want to be lifting and have this happen.
 

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I wouldn't add anything on top of a jack (like wood). A rolled up newspaper is likely ok, but nothing that can cause the jack / car to slip out from contact. Please be careful here. You don't want to be lifting and have this happen.
To be fair, they are lifting with the jack and then adding jack stands and backup jack stands and not relying on the floor jack to hold the vehicle up so the danger of it slipping off a floor jack is limited.
 

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To be fair, they are lifting with the jack and then adding jack stands and backup jack stands and not relying on the floor jack to hold the vehicle up so the danger of it slipping off a floor jack is limited.
The most dangerous time when lifting up a vehicle is the actual jacking process (no jack stands are there yet because it is the very start of lifting).

When lifting with a floor jack it will travel up in an arch. If you watch carefully you will see either your vehicle move slightly toward you (or more than likely the jack move away from you -if it has wheels) as the jack arch lifts and pulls the car. Having wood reduces the jack's ability to grab onto (or have friction with) the vehicle. I have done something similar and the vehicle lifted up and AWAY from me (because the jack didn't have a grip) while the jack rotated up and toward me(in an arch-jack didn't roll). The result was the vehicle fell right in front of me and a hole in the floor pan.

Because of this I am very, very conservative on jacking and holding up a vehicle. It is very sobering to have this happen to you...the concrete floor shook like rubber!
 

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I would have to disagree. The most dangerous time is when I am under the jacked vehicle with my attention on something other than the jack and stands. When jacking the car up is when there is the least danger of injury to myself or others and when my attention is 100% focused on the jack and jack point. Yes there is a risk of damaging the car and soiling your underwear but that is a pretty minor confern if you are using a decent jack that can roll and you pay attention as it lifts.
 

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Well, I think we will just have to agree to disagree here. Point for everyone is be safe, don't feel rushed, don't be distracted, have and maintain good equipment, don't let your kids wonder around while you are under there, and know what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I jacked the car up today over the side at the crossmember. Worked nicely and was easy to place a jack stand in front jack points. I have running boards and lst night I cut some hockey pucks to fit the lots to place the jack stands. The bracket of the running board attches to the jack point at front ( where I was placing the jacks). Using the cut hockey puck worked insanely well. Even those same cut pucks fitted exactly the rear jacking slots so I used them to lift at the back. Have not tried lifting the back through the middle but I think it will work well if the front is on the ground still.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Also I did use a hardwood with drilled holes that fit the two crossmember screwheads. Locks in place and distrubutes the load better in my opinion rather than just pushing on the screw heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you use some crap wood, I can see it breaking so I would avoid that but good quality hardwood can take a beating
 

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