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hi, I just acquired a 2012 TDI, the tailgate shocks/strut seem ok, everything is working, I was just wondering if there is any maintenance I can do to keep them working, or make them glide a little better, a lubricant or something.

Compare to my Q5 the the TDI has some, not hesitation, but a bit more of a struggle and a bit more noise/trying, and I'm not sure if that is typical.

At the joints I'm assuming I can just use some silicone lube, they actually are a bit rusty, but if there somethng for the shocks themselves... thanks as alway!
 

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Not a bad idea to lube the hinges but the struts themselves are internally lubed which is why they get installed piston down (so the seals dont dry out). If theres rust on the pistons that could easily damage the seals resulting in gas loss and requiring replacement.
 

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My passenger side power liftgate shock/strut makes a slight clicking noise as the hatch opens. All the pivot points are clean and rust free. I've read where people have gotten VW to replace the struts under the 100k warranty. I don't know if those struts failed catastrophically or if they were just making the clicking noise while working.
How would you get the grease in the pivot points without removing the struts?
 

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The 2011 and up struts are electric,not hydraulic,there isn't any fluid to add or lose. Nothing wrong with lubing the pivot points Mine had a failure and started making noise,was replaced under extended warranty.
 

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I'm not sure where the reference to hydraulic comes from but it's very common for power actuated doors, tops lift gates etc to have a gas strut as well as a linear actuator. While the actuator does the heavy lifting, the strut acts as a counter balance to lower the stress on the typically expensive and often delicate electro-mechanical bits.

By way of example my 87 e30 cabrio has a manual top and a gas strut which makes lowering and raising much easier. When they went to an electric top in 91 they still used the gas strut to assist the power components which are very prone to failure and in virtually every case it's due to the failed gas strut.

Ive changed the gate struts on my T1 and did a quick parts check using a 2014 as an example and it appears that there may be a gas strut in there even w the power lift. Not 100% certain as to this point and not saying it's the source of the OPs concern if it does have one. Just sharing my perspective since Ive been having gas struts custom made for my BMW crowd for years and have sold 1000s for both seats and tops. We don't lube the pivots, I've never had one fail and have never heard of a catastrophic failure. They just lose pressure over time.
 

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So being that my liftgate units aren't totally bad and only one of them makes a clicking noise when opening I figure VW won't change it/them out unless.
I bought part # 7P6-827-851-G-IIT which is supposed to be the latest updated part for the liftgate from an online VW parts place for ~ $258 delivered. I figured I'd have it if the clicking unit fails.
A couple of questions I have is: Do they both need to be changed out with the new part at the same time? Will putting in the new one with the old one cause each side to lift at a different rate and cause problems?
 

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If you have a power lift gate there's one gas strut which on my T2 is on the passenger side and can be bought online for about USD70. Drivers side has a hydraulic piston Which sounds like what you've priced. The window has 2 which are cheap so I'd do those at the same time. To answer your question, when there are 2 you always replace them in pairs and They typically have a small bit of grease in them already.

if they will do,this under warranty that's great but otherwise I don't think you want to know what their labor charge would be. I'm getting my headliner done at an upholstery shop and am going to ask if they will change the 3 I have while they are in there.
 

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If you have a power lift gate there's one gas strut which on my T2 is on the passenger side and can be bought online for about USD70. Drivers side has a hydraulic piston Which sounds like what you've priced. The window has 2 which are cheap so I'd do those at the same time. To answer your question, when there are 2 you always replace them in pairs and They typically have a small bit of grease in them already.

if they will do,this under warranty that's great but otherwise I don't think you want to know what their labor charge would be. I'm getting my headliner done at an upholstery shop and am going to ask if they will change the 3 I have while they are in there.
OK I own a T3. Both my rear lifters are electronic as they both have wires going to them. My rear window does not have any as it does not open. The lifter I priced/bought and received is an electronic lift and looks exactly like the OEM one on the vehicle. I will/can replace it myself. I figured I might want to change both at the same time, just wanted to confirm it with someone who has knowledge on the electronic lift ones on the T3, not the T2.
 

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What do you want to confirm? That both sides are electric spindle drives?
 

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No, just as to whether or not both need to be changed at the same time to avoid any lifting mismatch issues.
 

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I don't know how you would get a mismatch as they are all geared the same and the hall sensors keep track of their position. Also, if I recall correctly, the system will still work even if one sensor fails, just with modified characteristics.

That being said, you should be fine replacing only one unit.
 

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Thanks TurboABA. As an electronic/mechanical tech. I was thinking that since they are both the originals that maybe the motor drives would be weaker than that of a new unit. I was thinking with only changing one that the tailgate might lift faster on the side of the new one and possibly cause a twist effect of the tailgate and maybe activate a safety feature causing the tailgate not to fully open or close correctly.
Maybe my Tech. mind is just overthinking this.
 

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my now sold T1 had blown struts when I bought it and given the weight of the lift gate Id say the hinges are quite sturdy. My T2 only has a lift on one side and a gas strut on the other so I would think a failure of one side would be inconvenient but not likely to cause any near term damage.
 

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I've only done the manual struts on my former T1 so don't want to steer you wrong. In my case it was finicky but not a royal PITA. i Suspect the similarities are that the headliner has to be half detached and lowered, the window struts come out first and go in last and the gate struts have to be positioned just so to get them out. In your case you have wiring plus IDK what else. YouTube is your friend though
 

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How easy is it to replace the electric hatch struts on a T3?
I have not replaced mine, I only bought a spare in case the one that is clicking as it operates fails. In looking at it though the T3 electronic hatch struts look like they are a lot easier than the procedure for the T1 that jeffnhicars describes.
The end pivot points have a clip that holds them in place. I'm not sure if they lift out or slide up to release as I haven't spent the time to investigate due to a hectic work schedule. I am off this week for vacation so I will spend some time to figure it out.
As far as the wiring, it has a pre-mounted grommet on it that fits into a side piece of plastic on the rear lid itself. It looks like the bigger plastic cover of the lid might have to be taken off but don't quote me on that. I've checked YouTube and am not able to find any how to videos on the T3's electronic actuators replacement. Maybe someone on here who has done it can offer some knowledgeable advice/instructions.
 

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Yeah- I haven't found any YouTube videos on it yet. After seeing this thread and the part number for the lift strut I went ahead and ordered one. I'm working out of state and do not have my Touareg here.
I know with previous VCDS scans that one of the struts has an encoder error and so my hatch doesn't work. It will lift a few inches to sometimes a few feet then fail.
 
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