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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Bought my first Touareg under 30 days ago and recently got a Vag-Com.

Did a scan and I am getting an error regarding the boost pressure that was logged as intermittent back in October this year.

The Freeze Frame:

RPM: 2016 /min
Speed: 52.0 km/h
Load 48.6%
Voltage: 14.97 V
Bin. Bits: 000010000
Absolute Pres.: 1927.8 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1315.8 mbar

I have cleared the code and run the car for 20 miles or so and the fault code hasn't come back but I am worried that I will miss the opportunity to hand the car back if I exceed the 30 days.

I have made the dealer aware and he has agreed to have a workshop local mechanic take a look - again I worry its not a proper VW mechanic.

Do these values shed any light on what it could be?

I have come from using an old Discovery 2 Td5 which I feel pulls and shifts better than this Touareg.

Fuel economy hasn't been great either in my opinion but I have nothing really to compare it against as this fault has been present from the offset.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bernie.
 

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R5 (2008)
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1,159 Posts
600 mbars of boost pressure is missing. That's a lot. >200 mbar difference will already trigger limp mode.

You'd need to take the car to a test drive while logging boost pressure and other vital values, and then analyze that log, which in turn could give you an idea what's wrong with the car, or whether it's just a one-off, or some electrical gremlin that's possibly almost impossible to track down.

Try the procedure described here (even possibly sans the logging part, if you don't have proper equipment for that) whether you can trigger the fault. If you can, then at least it's reproducible which is a great start for a proper diagnosis, and/or a justified reason to return the car because of a hidden fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
600 mbars of boost pressure is missing. That's a lot. >200 mbar difference will already trigger limp mode.

You'd need to take the car to a test drive while logging boost pressure and other vital values, and then analyze that log, which in turn could give you an idea what's wrong with the car, or whether it's just a one-off, or some electrical gremlin that's possibly almost impossible to track down.

Try the procedure described here (even possibly sans the logging part, if you don't have proper equipment for that) whether you can trigger the fault. If you can, then at least it's reproducible which is a great start for a proper diagnosis, and/or a justified reason to return the car because of a hidden fault.
Perfect thank you very much!
From my time having it limp mode has never been engaged :s sometimes when you put foot down it just feels flat.
Will do that process tomorrow and post the results - their mechanic wont be looking at it until next week sometime.
The dealer got the car start of November which is making me think the person who traded it in maybe knew about the issue and was quoted alot to fix.
 

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R5 (2008)
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Also make sure to repeat the test once when the engine is cold, and once when it's warm. Obviously flooring the cold engine is not recommended, but it will take no harm during such a short period and doing it only once or twice. But sometimes leaks can depend on engine temperature (see thermal expansion/dilation), and if you don't have a test both in cold and warm state, then you could be missing bits vital to a proper diagnosis of the problem.
 

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Not necessarily. Depends on where oil is coming from.

If it's leaking from between the plastic intake pipe (coming from the air box) and the turbo's cold intake pipe, that's not a problem per se, because then it's just oil condensate from the crankcase ventilation (which is routed back right before that point into the intake), which is perfectly normal there. Well, I mean originally it was not intended to leak out there, but even if it does, that should not cause any boost problems, or any other problem in the working of the engine for that matter.

Now on the other side if the oil is leaking from the turbo itself (like from the middle of it, where the hot and cold parts meet), that might be indeed a problem and a reason why you have no proper boost. Then that's because your turbo is worn, and can't produce the required boost in the first place.

I suggest you clean these parts thoroughly, and the after some driving around look at them again, and try to figure out where the oil is actually leaking from. If the leak is very faint, it might take multiple 100 or even 1000 miles for the leak to be obvious again - because for all we know, this gunk could have been collecting there for years.

That is, if you want to actually find out (and possibly fix) the problem, not just return the car, or replace the turbo "blindly" (ie. without confirming first whether it's really the turbo's seals that are leaking) hoping that it will fix your boost problem. Which it just might not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi all, apologies for the delayed response. Turns out his mechanic could not find anything mechanically wrong with turbo and no further fault codes so replaced the solenoid and all seems ok now. Thanks all for your help it’s appreciated.
 
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