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Oil pan drain threads shot!

4K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  tomahawk1187 
#1 ·
I read the 2013 thread on this issue, but I have a new(?) wrinkle. I have had the same dealer do all my oil changes on my 2006 V6 3.2 (now 100,000 mi), and it developed an oil leak 2 oil changes ago. New plug...still leaked. Another new plug with a request for tech to check it out more thoroughly...still leaked - worse. Now the wrinkle. With the latest oil change, dealer called saying pan threads were shot but they'd TRY to fix (with a heli-coil). The alternative being over $2200 for a new oil pan, I said go ahead. The heli-coil failed - they say the leak is even worse now! - and my only alternative to the new pan $ was to tow it home with the heli coil still in place where I am now trying home fixes.
I could take it to a local garage, but the owner (in the past, always a fair guy) admits a lack of tools/experience for this job.
I am comfortable with re-threading, but since the dealer already gave the hole one reaming for the failed heli-coil, I'm not too keen on another drilling out of the drain hole, especially in this aluminum pan.
Should I remove the heli-coil before trying any fixes? Do those oversize plugs work, or just use an expanding rubber plug and RTV sealant temporarily while gathering advice for a more permanent fix? Thanks for all advice.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I read the 2013 thread on this issue, but I have a new(?) wrinkle. I have had the same dealer do all my oil changes on my 2006 V6 3.2 (now 100,000 mi), and it developed an oil leak 2 oil changes ago. New plug...still leaked. Another new plug with a request for tech to check it out more thoroughly...still leaked - worse. Now the wrinkle. With the latest oil change, dealer called saying pan threads were shot but they'd TRY to fix (with a heli-coil). The alternative being over $2200 for a new oil pan, I said go ahead. The heli-coil failed - they say the leak is even worse now! - and my only alternative to the new pan $ was to tow it home with the heli coil still in place where I am now trying home fixes.
I could take it to a local garage, but the owner (in the past, always a fair guy) admits a lack of tools/experience for this job.
I am comfortable with re-threading, but since the dealer already gave the hole one reaming for the failed heli-coil, I'm not too keen on another drilling out of the drain hole, especially in this aluminum pan.
Should I remove the heli-coil before trying any fixes? Do those oversize plugs work, or just use an expanding rubber plug and RTV sealant temporarily while gathering advice for a more permanent fix? Thanks for all advice.
I've seen these used:
http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/1240171/00736?isPayInStoreOnlyStore=false

Pretty inexpensive so you could put in a new one with each oil change.

Or for a more permanent fix - the VW application kit:
http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-1-50-Metric-Drain-1415A/dp/B003SER3XW

It's $127 bucks but that beats the cost of a new oil pan. Then you have four extra inserts to charge your friends for the same fix. Or make the dealer buy the kit and just pay them for the insert (offer $40). They need to learn that a spring insert like Heli-coil doesn't work well holding back fluids.

It was funny reading the descriptions on the Time-sert page about how mechanics should convince their customers that the aluminum threads will wear out and that the stripped plug isn't their fault. Then charge them a couple hundred for this fix.

What BS - I've changed the oil on my New Beetle MANY MANY times and never stripped the threads because I'm careful and I pay attention to what I'm doing. And I don't use an air wrench to drive it home.
 
#4 ·
Update - I got under the car and saw that the HeliCoil was no longer there - they must have removed it - but I don't understand why the threads are still VERY banged up! If they properly installed a helicoil, shouldn't they have drilled out the hole first? How did these threads get banged up?

I checked the drain hole ID with a caliper because I bought a single-oversize 14 mm plug as a possible fix, and it just wiggles around in the hole! ID is 14.5 mm. OEM is 14 x 1.50. Did they bang up the new threads, or possibly put in an oversize plug earlier when my leak started and just never told me? I don't put anything past those guys.

How much bigger does each oversize plug get? I'm worried I'll have to ream it out to 15mm and put in a bigger plug. My worry is that a bigger plug won't seat due to the top half of the drain plug seat area being slightly recessed. Can't even get a cheap rubber plug to seat properly due to that raised lip around the top of the hole. Guess that's just more reason to get a time-sert kit and re-do it all.
 
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