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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm unable to figure out what I am doing wrong. I just did a 1/2 oil change on my 2009 V6 TDI.

I am using a MityVac 7300 hooked to my compressor. I ran the car to town and back making certain the oil was hot. I parked in level ground. I put the tube (next size up from smallest) down the dipstick tube until it bottomed out. I removed the filler cap and filter. I ran the compressor for at least 20 minutes but still could only extract 4 liters! I changed to the the smallest tube and ran it another 10 minutes. I sucked out the filter housing. Still only 4 liters. I tried twisting and turning the tube thinking that it wasn't in all of the way but it would not budge. I changed the filter. I put 4 liters of new oil in. I ran the engine for 2-3 minutes and checked the oil level and I'm at MAX.

What could possibly be wrong?
 

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I have the same extractor and used it to do an oil change on my 09 V6 TDI. The plastic tubes that come with the extractor are not long enough and I ended up buy longer ones at Lowes.

I used the smallest size tubing becuase the larger ones would not go all the way in. As I recall, it took about 45 minutes to extract over 2 gallons of oil. After about 30 minutes, it almost looks like the oil extraction stops, but if you look closely, the oil is still being extracted, just slower and harder to see it in the tubing. I actually had to stop and empty the mity vac because I was concerned it would overflow.

The instructions that come with the Mity Vac are terrible. You may have better extraction by buying longer tubing, buying the smallest size tubing that comes with the Mity Vac.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The smallest tubing with the extractor goes in and stops. I don't see a length problem. But perhaps that size tubing is too large in diameter to go in as far as it needs to. Do you know what size tubing you bought??

Does anyone know if the other extractors out there work better in the case of the V6 TDI? Do they have thinner longer tubing??
 

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The smallest tubing with the extractor goes in and stops. I don't see a length problem. But perhaps that size tubing is too large in diameter to go in as far as it needs to. Do you know what size tubing you bought??

Does anyone know if the other extractors out there work better in the case of the V6 TDI? Do they have thinner longer tubing??
I bought longer tubing, same size as the smallest tube that comes with the extractor. The extractor does work well on V6 TDI, but I did have the same problem you did with my Toyota Tacoma, would only extract half the oil. I have used it with other equipment, quads, outboard motor, generators, etc.
with no problem.

Read the following post, the person who wrote it used a Pela oil extractor with good results.

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/diy-2010-v6-tdi-oil-change-extraction-method-42820.html
 

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Guy's, buy yourselves a good set of Car Ramps, and drop the oil. Just think of the dynamics of "mud". The crap that ends up in the bottom of the sump wont be sucked up with your extractor, but will be washed out by the flow dynamics of the oil leaving the sump via the drain. The only reason why shops use them is convenience. They don't need to block the hoist whilst it drains, and they can be working on another vehicle whilst yours is "sucked".

The whole idea of an oil change is to get the crap out.. Do dealers really care..no because it is unlikely to effect a "newer" vehicle, and they will be getting money out of you when you "older" out of warranty engine craps itself..... don't be a sucker!
 

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There is a published booklet from Audi which I posted a couple of months ago which specifically states that oil extraction should NOT be used with the V6 TDI...it doesn't say why, it just says don't do it.

Too bad because I love my Pela...
 

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There is a published booklet from Audi which I posted a couple of months ago which specifically states that oil extraction should NOT be used with the V6 TDI...it doesn't say why, it just says don't do it.

Too bad because I love my Pela...
My Bentley VW Touareg Service CD Manual said you cannot use the extraction oil change on a V8, but nothing said about V6 TDI.
 

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The NOT is only for the non FSI V8s since they have a dual sump. But seriously, get some ramps as stated and do a proper job letting gravity empty it out not trying to suck through a straw... just my 2 cents

siberian
 

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I'm not sure about the V8, but here is the specific document I am referring to.
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_361.pdf

This is the service info/self learning guide published by Audi, so I would consider this a more authoritative source than the Bentley manual...they state that due to the baffles in the oil pan oil extraction should not be used on the 3.0 TDI (see lower right hand corner of page 37)

Siberian, here is the link to the FSI V8 self study guide..it also illustrates the differences between the 350hp and 420hp (dry sump) versions. For those interested, it shows the 4 chain design of the FSI V8:

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_377.pdf

Lastly, here is the self study guid on the 3.0 TDI itself:

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_350.pdf

page 14 of this document shows the 4 chain timing setup, which has been a topic of discussion on this board...FWIW the design appears nearly identical to the 4.2 FSI 4 chain setup.

Happy reading...
 

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My Bentley VW Touareg Service CD Manual said you cannot use the extraction oil change on a V8, but nothing said about V6 TDI.
See my links above...the Audi self study guide is not subtle about stating that oil extraction shouldn't be used on the 3.0 TDI. its got a big exclamation mark beside "DON'T DO OIL EXTRACTION" on page 37, lower right hand corner.

I personally always use oil extraction on everything, but I'll avoid it on the 3.0TDI
 

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Thanx Nick for those docs. I didn't see anything pertaining to the V8 FSI and extraction systems. However whilst on the non FSI engines you couldn't get to the second sump, with the FSI engines how do you drain the filter contents if you don't open the oil plug? Of course you could always wait until it rains into the case and suck out again.

Nick, will u be able to go by KVR 2day? Thanx again

siberian
 

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See my links above...the Audi self study guide is not subtle about stating that oil extraction shouldn't be used on the 3.0 TDI. its got a big exclamation mark beside "DON'T DO OIL EXTRACTION" on page 37, lower right hand corner.

I personally always use oil extraction on everything, but I'll avoid it on the 3.0TDI
Thats interesting, apparently the engineers from the Audi self study guide and my Bentley VW Touareg Manual are not on the same page......my Bentley only goes up to the 2009 Touaregs and includes the V6/V10 TDI and it says you can use oil extraction or drain plug for oil changes with a caution not to use oil extraction on V8 Touaregs.

Next time I get by my VW dealership, I will ask the service manager about oil extractions on the 3.0 TDI engine because I did one on my 09 TDI and had planned on continuing to do them after my free ones run out.
 

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Again the caution is for the NON FSI V8s with dual sumps.

siberian
 

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Thats interesting, apparently the engineers from the Audi self study guide and my Bentley VW Touareg Manual are not on the same page......my Bentley only goes up to the 2009 Touaregs and includes the V6/V10 TDI and it says you can use oil extraction or drain plug for oil changes with a caution not to use oil extraction on V8 Touaregs.

Next time I get by my VW dealership, I will ask the service manager about oil extractions on the 3.0 TDI engine because I did one on my 09 TDI and had planned on continuing to do them after my free ones run out.
My bentley manual has very little on the 3.0TDI..and mine is the latest version. Since bentley is an aftermarket supplier to VAG and Audi is the manufacturer, i'll go with what the people that designed and make it say...
 

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What is perhaps odd, I find, is that the oil plug is not magnetized as is on (all) vehicles I've ever owned. Wonder why...

Now that I've found that I don't need to throw away the plug on the V6, I'll continue removing the plug for oil changes...

siberian
 

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I wonder if the prohibition of oil extraction on the 3.0l V6TDI is because of the possibility, by design (baffle plates), of not getting the extraction tube to the "proper place" to extract all of the oil? If the drain plug allows all of the oil to drain, then IMO, if you get the extraction tube to the bottom where it drains, I think it is reasonable to think that extraction should work. The proof of whether the tube ends up in the correct place, would be in seeing that the quantity extracted is approximately 9 liters (same as drain plug).

That said, I believe on the V10TDI, there is a release valve, that when closed holds the oil higher up in the engine and when opened allows all of the oil to drain into the sump (hence why folks can check the oil level on the V10 and can get a dry stick but after trying again, or yet again, finally get a reading). I also think that the release valve function and operability can be hampered by an extraction tube (nothing definite, just my gut opinion when trying to drain oil on the V10. The extractor bumps into something as you feed it into the V10 dip stick tube and if you try to extract prior to release opening, it is possible to "drain" and not get all of the oil- possibly hold the release valve closed). Messing up the release valve can impact its operability in that it could possibly starve the engine of oil or minimally interrupt the operation and designed flow of oil from the sump. This of course, could lead to smoke from the oil cap and eventually a failed valve cover gasket. I don't know if the V6TDI is in the same camp and if that is the reason for the caution against oil extraction:confused:

Am I missing something here or does this seem right? Any thoughts on this?
 

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While one the subject (sort of) make sure your Touareg has the newer style oil dipstick with cable wire all the way to the very tip. I have a 2007 V10 and this was not the case...my dipstick was cable wire but still had the flat part at the end of the stick without reinforcement. Eventually the plastic (flat part) will break off. Simple to replace the dipstick for under $20 to prevent this before it happens.

If someone does have a broken dipsstick and thus the new stick will not fit all the way down the tube I can share a way to get it out for cheap and no disassembly required.
 

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I had the plastic tip break on my V10 as well..my V6 TDI has the metal tip.

CsTDI..your logic sounds correct...that's the only thing that makes sense.
 

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While one the subject (sort of) make sure your Touareg has the newer style oil dipstick with cable wire all the way to the very tip. I have a 2007 V10 and this was not the case...my dipstick was cable wire but still had the flat part at the end of the stick without reinforcement. Eventually the plastic (flat part) will break off. Simple to replace the dipstick for under $20 to prevent this before it happens.

If someone does have a broken dipsstick and thus the new stick will not fit all the way down the tube I can share a way to get it out for cheap and no disassembly required.
Agree - replace the dipstick BEFORE it breaks. But if you don't, you might try what I did. Just before I bought the car in March, the seller discovered the dipstick was broken. He replaced it but didn't remove the broken piece (we were still able to get a reading of the oil level, but with some difficulty). Later I changed the oil so I knew for sure what kind of oil saw in the sump but, because of the difficulty - slowness - of measuring the oil, I overfilled it by almost a quart. In the process of pulling excess oil out through filler tube using a MityVac and a thin wall polyethylene extraction tube from a Pella, I pushed the extraction tube down firmly while pulling a suction. I couldn't figure out why the oil flow was so slow. I even put an O-ring between the suction tube and the dipstick tube to seal air from coming down the tube! When I pulled the suction tube out, there was the broken off piece!! Stuck in the end of the plastic tube. Even with the broken piece out of the way, the flow into the dipstick tube is very restricted. Couple that with the fact that the broken piece didn't get into the crankcase where I expected it to go, tells me that the bottom end of the dipstick tube only has a small hole in it (not big enough for the broken dipstick piece to fall through even when pushed and certainly not big enough for an oil suction tube). Since the top extractor suction tube cannot go all the way through the dipstick tube, and no one knows just how close that tube comes to the bottom of the crankcase pan, it is probable that top extraction will NOT pull all or most of the oil from the V10 crankcase. I also noticed that, even now, I get a dry dipstick whenever I check the oil. It turns out that there is an O-ring on the handle end of the dipstick. This keeps air from moving out of the tube and keeps oil from coming up. I have to remove the dipstick for a few minutes to allow the oil to seek its natural level, then put the dipstick in and pull it back out to get a measurement. It seems that whenever the engine is running, the oil level falls below the end of the dipstick tube and the oil that was there drains out and air is trapped in the tube. It stays that way until the dipstick is removed.
 

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I was going to use a similar method using a piece of tubing to grab the broken off dilating end but thought I might break it in to many pieces if it was brittle. So I went to Radio Shack and picked up some heat shrink tubing. I took a piece that was just a bit smaller than the dipstick tube, then taking the broken dipstick I heated about 2" of a 4" piece on to the end of the dipstick. Leaving the other 2" extending the dipstick with the heat shrink unshrunk. With engine cold put the dipstick back in and drive the car as normal making sure engine oil temp comes up to the 200 degree mark. Then, next stop, pull the dipstick out and the heat shrink tubing will be shrunk around the broken piece of the dipstick.
 
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