I have the dealer change the oil every 10k miles and they charge $120. It takes about $50 worth of synthetic oil plus and oil filter and gaskets, so I figure paying them about $50 for the labor is worth it. Synthetic oil still looks good after 10k. But I do normally have to add a quart of 0-40 mobil 1 between changes.

the specified interval is 10k miles for normal service and 5k miles for severe.

a diy oil change requires dropping the belly covers and the oil comes gushing out the large drain plug hole, so you need a large catch container. I have had a filter and the gasket and washers sitting in my garage for 5 years with the intention of changing myself at the 5k mid interval. One of these days...

 

My dealer charges only 65.00 for oil change so it's a no brainer for me.

 

If that includes synthetic oil, it's an excellent deal. If it's not synthetic, I would ask for it and pay the difference. i would only go beyond 5k miles with synthetic oil.

 

The dealer charges me $95 plus I have to drive 2 hours so I was hoping for an alternative. I am glad to hear its not proprietary. Thanks for the help!

 

If I had to drive 2hrs, I would do it myself of find a good indy. Avoid quickie oil change places. Just keep the receipts, if you do it yourself.

My dealer service writer had me call VWOA customer service for to push for some sort of authorization(not engine related) and the first question the VOA phone person asked was, "Do you have the oil changed at the dealer?" Complete BS, but shows how they are trying to intimidate customers into using dealers for everything.

 

If you have the V8 make sure they drain both oilplugs!

 

I do mine myself. I'm not paying the dealer $100 for such an easy procedure.

 

Yes they use 5w-40w Castrol synthetic.

 

Our V10 TDI needs 12 liters of expensive, esoteric low-ash synthetic oil. The last time the dealer changed the oil it was $230. The next time, I tried buying my own oil and taking it to an indie shop. Alas, the cost was about the same.

I'm going back to the dealer next time. It's expensive, but change intervals are long (10K miles), and using the dealer should insure that the correct oil is used.

BTW, our Egg is now WAAAY overdue for an oil change @ 14,000 miles (I know, shame on me). It has used less than 1/2 pint of oil in this period. I'm impressed!

Regards.

P.S.: Why would you want to use any oil change interval other that that specified by VW??? That interval is presumably established by engineers and controls warranty coverage!

 

P.S.: Why would you want to use any oil change interval other that that specified by VW??? That interval is presumably established by engineers and controls warranty coverage!

The question you should ask is why does VWoA specify 5,000mi intervals when the rest of the world is on 15,000km (±10,000mi) intervals on the same model...?

It's a money-making scheme.

 

Last change a few thousand miles ago was $89.95 at the dealer. Decent price.

 

As noted before on this forum, going to the dealer does not ensure you will get the spec 507 oil in your V10! I've had to "educate" at least two VW parts departments on this.

 

Today I scheduled my first oil change. My local dealer wanted $149.95 and the dealer that I usually go to in El Paso (formerly for Mercedes repair) wants $91.33. So I guess I will go to my usual. It will be more hassle but I trust them and I can get some work done while I wait.

I also have that rattle in the instrument panel and an ill fitting grey pillar piece on the drivers side that I need to have looked at.

Should I let the dealer rotate and balance my tires or is there somewhere else that you all like to get that done? Does it matter?

 

Go any place on tires. It is just tires, nothing special

 

The only reason I ask is I don't know if the TPMS causes additional complications or not.

 

No, just tell them upfront and watch that theyput rubber end on the valve stems(no metal since it will seize)

 

No, just tell them upfront and watch that they put rubber end on the valve stems(no metal since it will seize)

A dab of anti-seize on the valve stem prevents this and is also recommended to put on the wheel hub face so the wheel does not corrode to the hub...specailly important in winter and salty climates.