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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has any body fitted an "Oil Catch Can" (Trap) to the PCV system on a V6 TDI to reduce the amount of oil sucked into the intake.

I fitted one to my LS1 GM after I fitted a supercharger, again to reduce intake oil consumption. In this case it almost eliminated all the oil. Had been using about 1 litre between changes up till fitting.

As the Touareg exhibits a very oil intake track and also burns off about 1 litre of oil per service period, I plan to fit a catch can to it. I was hoping somebody had also done it. Failing that , does anybody have a schematic diagram of the PVC system on the V6 TD1 ( MY08 )

kind regards

Stuart...
 
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I bought a ProVent 400 and am planning to install. I have been planning to install forever, but with weather, kids, the wife, Holidays, etc. I cannot find the time, its sad. I have sized it up and all and figure I'm gonna have to fit the ProVent underneath on the passengers side wheel well. Its not gonna be up in the engine compartment, but a little below. I'm gonna have to insert 2 90 degree copper fittings into the hose from the turbo to the ProVent and a hose reducer from the ProVent to the tube coming from the cyclonic oil separator. the hose fitting on the ProVent is like an inch whereas the pipe from the cyclonic oil separator is like a half an inch. I do not think I will keep the engine cover on once fitted. Gonna be kinda hard to.

Will post pics of this feat once done.
 

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Hedditch...I don't know if the 3.0 TDI has a PVC or it is called a PVC on the 3.0 TDI.....Attched is a Self Study of the 3.0 TDI engine. Pages 20-21 has diagrams of the cyclonic oil separator which I think is VWs version or and?or includes the PVC
 

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Hedditch...I don't know if the 3.0 TDI has a PVC or it is called a PVC on the 3.0 TDI.....Attched is a Self Study of the 3.0 TDI engine. Pages 20-21 has diagrams of the cyclonic oil separator which I think is VWs version or and?or includes the PVC
The cyclonic oil separator should be doing exactly what a pvc does, just more efficiently.
 

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Hedditch...I don't know if the 3.0 TDI has a PVC or it is called a PVC on the 3.0 TDI.....Attched is a Self Study of the 3.0 TDI engine. Pages 20-21 has diagrams of the cyclonic oil separator which I think is VWs version or and?or includes the PVC
another cyclonic oil separator? great... :rolleyes:

time for a catch can I guess. I had a similar system on my old mercedes and as you put on the miles, these systems get less efficient over time and eventually cause more problems than they solve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My interest is driven out of two concerns; (1) the accumulation of oil in the intake system, such as inter-coolers etc. as well as (2) the consumption of oil between service intervals.

I think this is at least worth the attempt.

Stuart..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Zagg, where have to run your oil drain line back to. The Catch Can I am looking at involves cutting a "T" into the oil dipstick tube just above the sump entry point.

Stuart..
 

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Hedditch.....with the Provent the gases/ fumes enter the top, condense an settle to the bottom. There is a drain at the bottom to connect a hose to back to the engine. I'm not going to do that. I'm gonna add a length of hose and plug the end. Let it fill with oil over time and drain when needed. I won't be putting that oil back in the engine. I want to collect enough oil and send to Blackstone labs for analysis. I'm interested in if the oil collected is high in diesel and/or biodiesel, or what if anything. But I won't be putting it back in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Zagg my man, The way I look at it is the Catch Can is only a secondary to the Cyclone separator, which returns oil to the sump. On that basis retuning the catch can product would be no different. It also makes it a automated function which I can simply ignore in the future. On less maintenance task.

Stuart...
 
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I agree with you Stuart....It's just the scientist in me that, I can't explain it, but it won't let me return the oil, I will not feel comfortable putting the oil back in until I test it. I want to know why this oil is cooking off from the engine. What makes this oil chemicaly different from the rest of the oil that isn't cooking off................It's me, not you. I'm dealing with my own issues here.
 

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Hey Zagg, what setting have you selected for the relief valve and the pressure regulator on your ProVent 200. I am planning to install two of the 200 on my V10 one for each bank, after I get my intake manifold and the flapper valve cleaned. I had actually contacted ProVent and they refused to give me any help, saying that they only work with the engine manufacture so I will be doing this at my own risk - What a snort!!
 

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Zagg my man, The way I look at it is the Catch Can is only a secondary to the Cyclone separator, which returns oil to the sump. On that basis retuning the catch can product would be no different. It also makes it a automated function which I can simply ignore in the future. On less maintenance task.

Stuart...
Did you do this to your car Stuart? Thoughts/tips/links?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did you do this to your car Stuart? Thoughts/tips/links?
Have had a few interruptions recently, but it is still on my list. I have a can but it is still in the box.
 

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I got rid of my Treg Niner......I miss him dearly!!!!.......Anyway, I still have a ProVent 400 (I believe) that I never installed. Anyone want it for free? Please install on Treg and don't eBay it. First come first served. You pay for shipping. Send me a direct message.
 

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I got rid of my Treg Niner......I miss him dearly!!!!.......Anyway, I still have a ProVent 400 (I believe) that I never installed. Anyone want it for free? Please install on Treg and don't eBay it. First come first served. You pay for shipping. Send me a direct message.

PM sent.........

TonyB
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mann & Hummel Provent 200 Installed (almost).

Finally, I have installed the Man & Hummel Provent 200 I purchased 6 months ago. I made up a bracket to locate it at the front right corner of the engine. This allowed me to run the vent hoses ( 25mm / 1 inch) from the factory PCV to the Catch Can. Used silicone rubber hoses and stainless steel Norma Cobra Clamps which I hope will never need further attention.

The Original PCV line to the Turbo Inlet is a trap for young players. One end is 1" the other end is 3/4", something I discovered after I ordered all the parts I thought I needed. Bugger!!

The Parts used were:
1. Mann & Hummel Provent 200 ( See attached PDF )
2. 1.5 metres of 1" (25mm) Silicone AeroFlow Hose
3. 0.5 metres of 3/4" (19mm) Silicone AeroFlow Hose
4. 3x 1" Silicone 90 degree elbows
5. 4 x male - male aluminium hose coupler ( Aluminium tube )
6. 1 x 1" to 3/4" reducer ( Plastic)
7. 12 x Norma Cobra Clips C34/9 Stainless Hose Clamps.
8. 2 x Norma Cobra Clips C30/8 Stainless Hose Clamps
9. 4 x 1/2' hose clamps
10. Mann & Hummel oil drain check valve to allow opil to be returned to the sump at a point above the oil level.
11. 1 metre of 1/2" heater hose ( for drain line )
12. M18x1.0 Hex Headed Plug - Replaces VW Allen Plug (same size) covering crank shaft locking hole in sump ( see notes below)
13. Hose barb 1/2" (12mm) to attache to Item 12 to allow oil return ( see notes below )
14. Mann & Hummel 1/2" x 1/2" non-return valve

Additional Items Required.
1. Various Cable Ties
2. DIY Mounting bracket for affixing Catch Can. ( see my photos )


Mounting Bracket:

I fabricated from mild steel a bracket running as about 45 degrees from the right hand bonnet/hood gas strut mount point to the front radiator support panel. I used nutserts ( pop rivet style nuts ) and a little welding to make mine. By using two fixing points on the strut mount and one on the radiator support, I was able to eliminate nearly all flex, resulting in a robust mount. Have a look at the photos as they show it in some detail.

Oil Return Path , still to be completed

Prompted by a suggestion from Dragline1570 ( Thank you Mark ) is to utilise the access plug used for locking the crankshaft during timing chain servicing. This plug is an Allen type round headed plu located in the upper half cast section of the sump. By replacing this with a Hex Headed Plug/Bung, I will be able to drill and tap a suitable hole in the centre of the new plug and then attach a hose barb to accommodate the 1/2 oil drain line. Returning the oil condensate to the sump is a recommended solution by Mann & Hummel, however you must install a non-return valve in the drain hose if the return point is above the oil level. Without the non-return valve you will pressurize the Catch Can with air from the crank case. Not a good thing to do. This solution also allows removal without leaving a footprint.


Hex Plug For Oil Return

Hex Bung to allow drilling and taping.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exhaust...506908?hash=item2a94b4dadc:g:Ph4AAOSwPh5ZERMN

AeroFlow Hose

Silcone Hoses to suit..

AEROFLOW SILICONE RUBBER HEATER HOSE GLOSS BLACK / BLUE VARIOUS LENGTHS | eBay


90 Elbows

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicon...var=490765449171&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hose Joiner Male- Male

25mm - 1" OD ALUMINIUM HOSE JOINER 75mm long - Silicone Rubber pipe tube alloy | eBay

Hose Joiner Reducer 1" to 3/4"

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Straigh...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

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Good work Stu, thanks for providing all the additional detail as you've made the job of getting mine in soooo much easier .

Looking at your installation pics, you fitted the filter more inboard than I expected, I'm pretty sure I can squeeze mine in now on the other side of the intercooler pipe alongside the Fuel Manager primary filter I installed a little while ago.

The main challenge for me will be to fabricate the bracket utilising the fuel filter mounting bracket I think.

I assume you have plenty of room to replace the air cleaner without moving anything.

thanks for sharing.

TonyB
 

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