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Discussion Starter #1
When I drive for a long trip (like 2-4 hours) my car has started to stall at 80MPH. It usually happens after 2-3 hours driving, then reoccurs every 10 - 20 minutes. I have changed out my gas pumps and filters, bought a rebuilt alternator from O'Reilly's Auto (installed myself), and replaced the old wire from the Alt to the power terminal under the hood. I have also changed out the temp sensors (2 yrs ago) and the timing/waterpump.

What worries me is that I still don't get 14V on the dash (13V to 13.5V), but show 14V (according to Advance Auto) on the terminal.

The odd part is that nothing really happens other than the car just stops pulling. There's power in the car everywhere (radio, dash, etc) and I don't get an error on the VCDS. I just feel a drop out in power and no gas on the pedal. I roll to the side, stop and restart the car. Then I can drive for another 10-20 miles.

So it seems like an over-heating issue since it happens only at high speeds and on long runs. I actually stopped it from occurring more frequently when I wrapped the wires in the headlights that were showing (may need to check again). Obviously, there's no overheating on the dash and when I drop down below 80MPH I can "usually" stop it from occurring.

Any thoughts on what this could be? I searched power drops and other terms and nothing seems to match. Also, I had the problem before I got the alternator and replacing it fixed the problem for 4 months. Now its back again and I'm frustrated.
 

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When I drive for a long trip (like 2-4 hours) my car has started to stall at 80MPH. It usually happens after 2-3 hours driving, then reoccurs every 10 - 20 minutes. I have changed out my gas pumps and filters, bought a rebuilt alternator from O'Reilly's Auto (installed myself), and replaced the old wire from the Alt to the power terminal under the hood. I have also changed out the temp sensors (2 yrs ago) and the timing/waterpump.

What worries me is that I still don't get 14V on the dash (13V to 13.5V), but show 14V (according to Advance Auto) on the terminal.

The odd part is that nothing really happens other than the car just stops pulling. There's power in the car everywhere (radio, dash, etc) and I don't get an error on the VCDS. I just feel a drop out in power and no gas on the pedal. I roll to the side, stop and restart the car. Then I can drive for another 10-20 miles.

So it seems like an over-heating issue since it happens only at high speeds and on long runs. I actually stopped it from occurring more frequently when I wrapped the wires in the headlights that were showing (may need to check again). Obviously, there's no overheating on the dash and when I drop down below 80MPH I can "usually" stop it from occurring.

Any thoughts on what this could be? I searched power drops and other terms and nothing seems to match. Also, I had the problem before I got the alternator and replacing it fixed the problem for 4 months. Now its back again and I'm frustrated.
Could be your crankshaft position sensor quits sending signals to ECU when it gets hot or sends an implausible signal. If this sensor goes bad your car will stop running. The car wont start if the sensor is shot, but it is possible for a faulty sensor to stall the car but work OK on a restart. Usually though you should get a CEL if this is the case. The car (sensor) usually has to cool down a little before restarting. Could be the sensors in the throttle body however should get a CEL and EPC light and limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have actually replaced the crankshaft sensor last year, as I was having trouble starting the car. That may still be an issue, so I will take a look.

But, now I am also getting the "miles to empty" reboot each morning when I start the car. It starts at zero and has to recalibrate. I also changed out my 2 gas pumps and the gas level sending units.
 

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I have actually replaced the crankshaft sensor last year, as I was having trouble starting the car. That may still be an issue, so I will take a look.

But, now I am also getting the "miles to empty" reboot each morning when I start the car. It starts at zero and has to recalibrate. I also changed out my 2 gas pumps and the gas level sending units.
Not certain on the miles to empty other than a wiring issue with sending unit or unit itself. Only time I have issue is when it gets real cold and the miles to empty takes awhile after starting to measure accurately. Camshaft sensor issues can make the car real hard to start. The default is to use the crankshaft sensor so takes longer to start. Sometimes real long. My car was having problems starting when hot and it turned out to be one of the camshaft sensors not sending a signal when it got hot. VW could never figure it out. Worse part it was a new sensor from VW. Not certain whether the sensing unit indicating lack of fuel would cause the car to stop, or not start. Seems if there is fuel and the pumps work gas would get to the rail. On the other hand maybe to save the pumps from trying to pull fuel that it thinks is not there the won't operate?
 

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Loss of Power

The VW Mechanic I spoke with about this problem said there is an RPM regulator that disengages when the RPM exceed the pre-set parameters and you will lose power until the RPM's come back within parameters, then it will re-engage.

A month ago I asked if the transmission fluid needed to be changed, he said no. Last week-end, with 126K on my 2005 Touareg, I lost the transmission, had it towed to the nearest dealer who told me it had catastrophic failure & would cost me $10,000 to have a new one put in.

I told him I'll go buy a different car.

If anyone knows an option on changing the Transmission without getting ripped off, please let me know. And if you have a Touareg, may want to consider getting a different car.
 

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change the fuel filter and try a new battery.
 
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