[zambony]

Got a real Tech Ross cable and WOW this is going smoothly VS the KKL crap.

The only thing I had time to do is to activate the "auto hold" feature and I really enjoy it. I didn't expected that it would apply the handbrake when the car is in park; I enjoy that as well. Most of the time the handbrake are seizing on automatic car because they are never used.

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Got a real Tech Ross cable and WOW this is going smoothly VS the KKL crap.

The only thing I had time to do is to activate the "auto hold" feature and I really enjoy it. I didn't expected that it would apply the handbrake when the car is in park; I enjoy that as well. Most of the time the handbrake are seizing on automatic car because they are never used.

Volkswagen automatically engages/disengages the park brake upon shutdown if the park brake hasn't been used for a specified period of time.

 

[zambony]

I used to engage handbrake when I park at home (everydays) as an habit as this is my first automatic car. But I noticed after activating auto-hold that the hand brake is systematically applied after I put the car to park. I don't mind at all, as the car is fully stopped when... well when I stop. Typically it will take the slack in the drivetrain and lock to park with the transmission.

The auto-hold is such a nice feature.
Just set the steering temp to 32C (instead of 28), looking forward to that as well. I am searching if there is a way to retain the heated steering (same as when the car was turned off) instead of activating it each time I start. It is at freezing temperature outside (already!) I'll definitely use it all the time in the coming months.

 

[zambony]

I had a few minutes to do a few more VCDS code, nice.

Bump steering wheel temperature from 28 to 32, then 33.
Video in motion, will be great for the long road (Top gear!!)
green sign for auto-hold
no more seat belt warning (but I always use it anyway)

The coding for gear display was different, I'll dig a bit more.
I didn't find anything for heated steering memory (if ON when the car is turned off, stay ON when the car is started)
DVD rip to HDD

 

[zambony]

new wheel day! Is it summer yet?

I need new TPMS, already got summer tire.

 

[TurboABA]

Almost.... NOT

But they are directional... just sayin....

 

[zambony]

Yeah, but someone mentioned that I cannot see both side of the car at the same time

The look is what I was looking for, I would have prefer non directional wheels; but this is it. with H & R drop, that will look great. I'll use VW centercap for sure

shopping for TPMS now.

 

[zambony]

got my TPMS sensor for my summer wheels. looking forward to make some room in the garage as I have 3 wheel/tire standing around.

I bought them black, I was surprised to see they shipped them silver AND black.

power wise, it seems like GTB2265VK would be the way to go not to kill the low end torque; malone even offer the tune for it. (2265 or 2260).

I don't like the look of that dyno sheet...but I think it is the same on their website.
malone mentioned injector upgrade is needed to max out the turbo.

Next will be suspension (most likely H & R, maybe with B6 struts), then I'll look into power.

 

[TurboABA]

power wise, it seems like GTB2265VK would be the way to go not to kill the low end torque;

Don't know what dyno you're looking at because there's nothing happening on that low end. 👆

 

[TheChunknorris]

I don’t know man... seems like a hell of a lot of money for that early lag.

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Don't know what dyno you're looking at because there's nothing happening on that low end. 👆

Lol nothing happens until 3k

 

[Brendanm]

I think you purchased the wrong car. Want to lower it and make a heap of power? Would have been a lot easier to start with something that isn't a 2+ tonne suv.

 

[zambony]

my bad
I think this is the wrong dyno chart, this is a 2872... Definitely not what I am looking for.

Anyway, at this stage; the shopping list is for slightly bigger than OEM turbo (2056 to 2260 or 2265), DPF delete and potentially injectors or CP3 pump upgrade to max out the turbo. And a tune to make it work obviously.

I would expect the turbo lag to be between OEM (2k RPM) and the 2872 which is around 2700rpm; so around 2300RPM which sounds reasonable.

As for not buying the right car; I like the Touareg. If I didn't like it, I wouldn't do anything to it actually! I've modified most the cars that I owned that I liked. I think I am keeping things relatively reasonable.

 

[TurboABA]

Anyway, at this stage; the shopping list is for slightly bigger than OEM turbo (2056 to 2260 or 2265), DPF delete and potentially injectors or CP3 pump upgrade to max out the turbo. And a tune to make it work obviously.

I think I am keeping things relatively reasonable.

No offence, buy you Sir, are delusional.

 

[zambony]

I will drop it with H& R (most likely with Bilstein B6 shocks) + spacers; most likely after winter. My truck has 203k km on OEM shocks, it can almost be considered maintenance and not covered by any warranty. This is definitely a GO. The look will improve for sure, no doubts.

however, like I mentioned before the power upgrade is more of a whish list at the moment than a real shopping list. I want to get the grossery list along with the performance gain and evaluate if it is worth it or not before making a move. I won't purchase anything before that. Now I know I am NOT looking for a crazy 2872 turbo or something like that. I would go a more conservative 2260 or 2265 to minimize turbo lag.

bare minimum for more power:
turbo is 1500$ ish, tune is 250$ USD

so looking around 2k$ for bare minimum, rough estimated power would be 330 crank HP to max out the fuel delivery system.
Is 2k$ justified 50HP. Not a No, but definitely a clear yes. Still need to sleep on it.

extra
225$ USD tune for DPF delete (as I am stage 2 already) if done at the same time
approx 1000$ for DPF delete (Buzkken)
+++ if CP3 or injectors upgrade.

My guess would be that another 2500$ would be required to get a solid 350-370HP at the crank (with DPF). So total would be close to 5k$ for 100hp, which is quite steep for the power gain.

There is still some thinking to put into all that.

 

[TurboABA]

So total would be close to 5k$ for 100hp, which is quite steep for the power gain.

I hope you do it just to prove me wrong!
I'm going on record now, saying that you will be 2x that $$$$ for those gains IF you do your own wrenching.

Negative Nancy out

 

[TheChunknorris]

I hope you do it just to prove me wrong!
I'm going on record now, saying that you will be 2x that $$$$ for those gains IF you do your own wrenching.

Negative Nancy out

Agreed. Also for the OP, the $250 is for the tune time or for software? The I wish I would’ve done the B6 upgrade. If you’re not doing the install yourself, be ready for the labor cost of the spring install.

 

[zambony]

10k$ is definitely a no go for such power gains. we'll see how it rolls out. The DPF delete might happens anyway if it get troublesome, it is most likely cheaper to delete than OEM fix. As there doesn't seems to get a significant power gain, but definitely a big change in emissions I'll wait. I do a lot of short city driving...
Turbo upgrade would happen if the turbo fails AND I cannot get it fix under warranty. we'll see!

As for the tune price, Malone only charges the tune price difference +100$ for re-flash when changing tune. I already paid 650$ for stage 2, stage 3 is 800$ so I have to pay 150+100$ for the new tune. If I do the DPF delete, it is another 250$ on top. If I only do the DPF delete, it is 250$ + 100$.

I got a quote for 1100$ CAD for springs with installation (springs are 500$ CAD alone), I find it a bit steep. Considering the struts have to be remove to install the springs, the truck/struts age and significant amount of labor involve, I want to do it properly and do the shocks at the same time as the springs. I expect the suspension bill to be a bit more, most likely top plates and some linkages/bushing will be required too. Doing only the springs now, and upgrade the shocks in a year or so doesn't make sense financially. The plan is to keep the car 5-8 years, so I guess I can get most of the life out of the B6 struts. All in all, this should be just over 3k$ CAD for struts, springs and spacers.
springs, 450$ (275$ USD for ECS or other)
struts: 1600$ (1581$ from rockauto, if no duties)
spacers & bolts:400$ (225$ USD + shipping)
Labor: 500$
duties, taxes, alignement, surprises...

 

[TheChunknorris]

10k$ is definitely a no go for such power gains. we'll see how it rolls out. The DPF delete might happens anyway if it get troublesome, it is most likely cheaper to delete than OEM fix. As there doesn't seems to get a significant power gain, but definitely a big change in emissions I'll wait. I do a lot of short city driving...
Turbo upgrade would happen if the turbo fails AND I cannot get it fix under warranty. we'll see!

As for the tune price, Malone only charges the tune price difference +100$ for re-flash when changing tune. I already paid 650$ for stage 2, stage 3 is 800$ so I have to pay 150+100$ for the new tune. If I do the DPF delete, it is another 250$ on top. If I only do the DPF delete, it is 250$ + 100$.

I got a quote for 1100$ CAD for springs with installation (springs are 500$ CAD alone), I find it a bit steep. Considering the struts have to be remove to install the springs, the truck/struts age and significant amount of labor involve, I want to do it properly and do the shocks at the same time as the springs. I expect the suspension bill to be a bit more, most likely top plates and some linkages/bushing will be required too. Doing only the springs now, and upgrade the shocks in a year or so doesn't make sense financially. The plan is to keep the car 5-8 years, so I guess I can get most of the life out of the B6 struts. All in all, this should be just over 3k$ CAD for struts, springs and spacers.
springs, 450$ (275$ USD for ECS or other)
struts: 1600$ (1581$ from rockauto, if no duties)
spacers & bolts:400$ (225$ USD + shipping)
Labor: 500$
duties, taxes, alignement, surprises...

The hour allotment for the spring install is expensive because the trunk tray needs to come out to get to the rear strut towers. The fact you’re getting separate shocks negates the disassembly of the OEM set up. There’s a way to get to the towers without the removal of the tray but you obviously can’t ask the shop to charge you less money for the install in the hopes they perform the service that way.

Are you planning on getting it dynoed?

 

[zambony]

No dyno planned at this point. The number itself is pointless, because it can greatly vary from one setup to another. If I swap snail, then maybe I'll look into a baseline to see the real gain VS expense on the same dyno.

One other thing to consider, is that shops/garage don't like customer bringing their own parts because they make a cut on them.. and sometime the quality is questionable.