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Your rig is broken. Those tires last a long time. Was it aligned using the correct R line specs? Did you screw everything up with aftermarket suspension/wheels/spacers? Did you check your previous alignment results for correct specs vs service manual? Did you do suspension/wheel changes/repairs after the alignment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #342 ·
I had quite a story about the alignment a few pages back. I got the Bilstein B12 mounted at one shop, they send it somewhere else for the alignment. I asked the sheet after and they "lost it". I mentioned I want it aligned again if I coun't see the result and they found it


I told the first shop I wasn't happy with those specs, they send it elsewhere (free of charges) and got this.


Nothing else have been done since. I have another alignment appointment at a third shop this Thursday, let's see what is what. rear camber is intense for sure, I see it with bare eye.

Side note, while looking for 2 used rear tire; I just came across those with Nokian Hakkapeliitta 9 SUV (275-45-20) mounted on. Very tempting, but I quite like the OEM wheels too; and I have the same exact tire. I'll sleep on it. Yay or nay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
1/2-5/8in lower than stock R-line. Definitely not slammed. No way I would get such tires so quickly.

I fit 3 fingers between the top of tire and fender liner; one less than before.
The pictures don't do justice, the black wheel/tire is not pretty on picture. Much much better IRL.
 

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Different ride heights impact independent suspension alignment specs. You need a shop that specializes in alignments. Also, have your bushings/endlinks/various wear components checked out.. on a heavy pig like that with high Odo, you'll more than likely have worn out stuff.
 

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Also, as per above earlier suggestion, check the shops base settings against your service manual specs. I posted a visual here for reference
 

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I had quite a story about the alignment a few pages back. I got the Bilstein B12 mounted at one shop, they send it somewhere else for the alignment. I asked the sheet after and they "lost it". I mentioned I want it aligned again if I coun't see the result and they found it


I told the first shop I wasn't happy with those specs, they send it elsewhere (free of charges) and got this.


Nothing else have been done since. I have another alignment appointment at a third shop this Thursday, let's see what is what. rear camber is intense for sure, I see it with bare eye.

Side note, while looking for 2 used rear tire; I just came across those with Nokian Hakkapeliitta 9 SUV (275-45-20) mounted on. Very tempting, but I quite like the OEM wheels too; and I have the same exact tire. I'll sleep on it. Yay or nay?
The Hakka's are world class snow performers
 

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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
The Hakka's are world class snow performers
I know, I have them mounted on the OEM wheels! They would be even better studded.
TBH I find 275 a bit too wide for snow, a 265 or even 255 would most likely be better (less floaty) but I won't replace them and I kindda enjoy the slides.

I would have to find out how much I could get for my OEM setup and see how much the cost difference would be. And part of me likes the OEM wheels (Cayenne summer, OEM winter). But I really like this shape of wheels and I think it would suit the Touareg nicely.
 

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I find my 255s still float (and I can't run studs in this part of ON). Once I wear them out I'm going to take it down another notch. Will probably go 245s as 235s will be to "pizza cutter" for me to handle visually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 · (Edited)
holly Toe! The back was terrible, which most likely explains the tire wear.

Rear camber bolts are seized. So -2.3 & -2.3deg in the back. Not ideal, but I fear the work required to get it properly set (rear control arms & bolts). Small numbers before, larger one after.
 

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holly Toe! The back was terrible, which most likely explains the tire wear.

Rear camber bolts are seized. So -2.3 & -2.3deg in the back. Not ideal, but I fear the work required to get it properly set (rear control arms & bolts)
Yep, of course they were. Common problem on these cars when people don't frequently get alignments 😉
 

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How would frequent alignment "checks" keep eccentric bolts from seizing bruh?
Or did you want owners to get their stuff adjusted all the time at $100/pop to keep $10 bolts from rusting and seizing up?

@zambony, drill out the heads, hammer our the bolts, replace them, get alignment done.... no need to replace LCRs or bushing on bearing end if they aren't worn out, etc.
 

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Last October man!!! less than a year. Our road are terrible here, but to get an alignment every 6000mi!?
Every year is what my dealership has told me and sticking to that has served me well.
 

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I live in rust land close to you, so I can relate..... get your crap oil sprayed and just soak things like that with "bolt-off" or similar stuff every time you crawl under the vehicle for whatever reason to keep them "usable" when\if required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #357 ·
How would frequent alignment "checks" keep eccentric bolts from seizing bruh?
Or did you want owners to get their stuff adjusted all the time at $100/pop to keep $10 bolts from rusting and seizing up?

@zambony, drill out the heads, hammer our the bolts, replace them, get alignment done.... no need to replace LCRs or bushing on bearing end if they aren't worn out, etc.
the mechanic told me that the bolt starts to turn but the arm doesn't move. So there could be some wear in the bushing insert.
My plan is to replace the rear tire once more and monitor wear. 2.5deg neg camber is not ideal, but not terrible if the toe is fine.
 

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C'mon man... so think about it.
The LCA pivots on the bushing that gets located in the subframe carrier by the bolt.
If the bushing is shot, then nothing is holding the pivot point in place and you're alignment is always everywhere as it's constantly changing..... so unless the LCA (I dunno WTF lcR above means.... lol) is simply being held in place by rust and still allowed to pivot, the bushing must still be good. If the bolt is turning, it's either been replaced by a regular bolt (not eccentric) or the washer "stops\limits" have been ground off.....

Something stinks.... get under there and get a good visual on things.
 
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