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qurtuba

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2009 T2 3.6L V6 FSI
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777 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone.

Well, looks like the PCV is starting to fail as I am hearing a clear whistling sound from the back of the valve cover where the pcv lives. So far no CEL or funky idling, but I guess I'd better do this before the theatrics start, especially since this is my daily driver.

I've seen videos, read articles with pictures, and the process seems fairly easy enough, even for an amateur like me. I looked over the work area (engine) and I have a question about how to remove one hose as it doesn't seem to be obvious, even though I read that it's a clip on and is just pulled out of the intake. However, when I tried, it seemed to be held on there quite strongly, but not really stuck. So, can anyone please give me a hint as to how to remove it, if you've done it before?

Thanks and I appreciate all the help, comments, suggestions you can give me. I'm attaching a photo of the hose I'm talking about. The photo isn't of my car, just a random image from google, but it's the same thing.

242228
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Around 5 ln into the vid:




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Thanks, this is the video I was referring to. It's really very helpful even though the configuration is for a Passat, but it's basically the same engine. I'll try again and see what happens. I just don't want to damage anything. Those hoses are quite expensive to replace.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thank you very much. Take your time, I still haven't decided whether to replace the whole valve cover, or open it up and see if I can just replace the pcv membrane. My mechanic wants to replace the whole cover because he says there were 2 kinds of pcv housings, one attached with screws and another that is a fixed part of the valve cover with no access to the membrane, and he's not sure which one my car has. And I'm not sure if opening it up just to check is a good idea.
 
Hi there. Just rotate the hose end slightly on the manifold. It just pulls off. The outer 90 degree is plastic with an inner rubber end.
The PCV inside the valve cover is screed in with some small screws but you still have to pride it’s inner housing off carefully. I have done it twice before with no problems. I
lol see if I can dig up some pics for yah
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Hi there. Just rotate the hose end slightly on the manifold. It just pulls off. The outer 90 degree is plastic with an inner rubber end.
The PCV inside the valve cover is screed in with some small screws but you still have to pride it’s inner housing off carefully. I have done it twice before with no problems. I
lol see if I can dig up some pics for yah
Thanks. I appreciate it.
If I may ask, though, when you did this job, what were the symptoms in the engine? From what I've read, when a pcv membrane is ruptured, the engine rpm starts to fluctuate and the idle is rough. Is that correct?
In my case, these symptoms are not present. The engine idles smoothly and when I blip the accelerator, the rpms rise and fall naturally. So I'm not sure. I certainly don't want to do this job if there is no need to. But one thing for certain is, there is an audible hissing sound from the back of the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
When my PCV played up the pig squeal gave it away, but also if I looked at the rev counter carefully it was varying up and down almost unoticeably by about 50 rpm.
Thanks. I'll try to see if it's doing that.
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Just my 2 cents, but if you're going to change out the PCV diaphragm go with the RKX diaphragm replacement kit. It will most likely outlast your vehicle.

Link >>> RKX VW & Audi 3.6 & 3.2 Engine Valve Cover PCV Valve Diaphragm
Absolutely. That would be the best way to go. I'm just hoping I don't need to replace the whole valve cover. Not that I don't trust my mechanic, but I think I might get a second opinion and see if it's just a vacuum hose that's leaking and not the pcv.
 
It might be a leaking vacuum hose but the engine will increase in RPM at idle. Check with VCDS. It will note that the oxygen sensors in the exhaust have changed readings and will adjust fuel trim, idle, etc.

When I first did mine, I noticed a trace of oil coming out of the small vent hole at the side of the rear of the valve cover. Once I removed the intake from the air filter and the heated vent pipe from valve cover to intake manifold, I noticed a bit of oil there too! I removed the valve cover and remove the PCV cover. No visual damage to diaphragm and spring. Cleaned everything up and refitted original PCV and blocked all ports and did a vacuum test 20hg for 5min. No leaks so reinstalled everything. Engine ran smoother, idle speed 100rpm less.
1 ½ years down the road with approx. 220,000kms, the idle started to increase with a telltale oil drip from the vent hole. Removed the cover and again tested and cleaned everything, this time, I removed the intake manifold too and there was a build up by all the intake valves, In the head. Cleaned all the ports. This is a fundamental problem with venting the PCV oil/air mixture back into the engine for emissions sake! With direct injection engines there is no way to wash the intakes with fuel mixture so the intakes start to coke up pretty fast. Only way is to take it apart and clean the gunk off before it starts to constrict the air intake!
 
Idle sounds smooth. There does sound like a rattle hissing sound. What happens when you increase the rpm to1500 and hold it steady? If I recall, there is a recall about a slight misfire in startup but that’s all I can think of.
You might have to check closer with a stethoscope to see where the noise is coming from
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
So I checked some more videos on YouTube about PCV issues on the VR6, and one of them showed what's exactly happening with my car. There's a little hole on the side of the PCV housing, which is where the hissing sound seems to be coming from, that if you block with your finger the sound goes but engine rpm starts fluctuating. Then another thing is while the engine is running, if you open up the oil filler cap, you can feel strong vacuum pressure acting on the cap.
So this is my course of action now: I'll remove the valve cover and check if the PCV membrane can be replaced. If so, I'll order the RKX one, along with new gaskets for the intake. If not, I'll just buy a new valve cover.

Failed PCV Video on Youtube
 
Sounds like a good plan. I have heard from people that the RKX diaphragm is a bit too thick and difficult to fit back in the valve cover housing, but I never had any issues.
You will find all the seals for the intake manifold pricey. One more thing. How long has this problem gone on for? If you have a endoscopic camera, it might be worth looking at the oil crud build up around the intake valves. I was astounded when I took mine apart!!
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Sounds like a good plan. I have heard from people that the RKX diaphragm is a bit too thick and difficult to fit back in the valve cover housing, but I never had any issues.
You will find all the seals for the intake manifold pricey. One more thing. How long has this problem gone on for? If you have a endoscopic camera, it might be worth looking at the oil crud build up around the intake valves. I was astounded when I took mine apart!!
I've noticed this issue for a couple of weeks now.
One more thing I'm seriously considering is, since the intake is coming off anyway, I might take it to get the walnut-shell blasting of the intake valves done, which'll cost me about US$250, and they throw in a proper injector cleaning for free. This is where they actually remove the injectors and put them in an injector cleaning machine, not just spray some chemical through the intake.
 
That’s best to do.
I had to make a modified spanner( wrench) to remove the high press fuel pipe.
Also, the lower injectors have to come out with the manifold.
You need a separate tool to remove the high pressure seals too. Make sure whoever is cleaning them has the sizing tool to slide the new PTFE seals over the shaft and into its groove. They are difficult to do without one
There is a special little slide hammer puller that attaches to the injectors to remove them from the head.
I have more pictures if you want to see them
 
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