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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!

Let me start by saying this is not for the faint of heart.. By far the hardest amp install I've ever had to do.

You can use this to mount an amp where I mounted my powered sub. Basically the same thing but you just have to run wires to your sub.

For Subwoofer I chose the Kicker 11HS8. I was just looking for a little extra bass nothing too crazy and a super clean install. (I also like to keep cans of Liqui Moly Super Diesel Additive in the compartment on the driver side of the trunk).

New Kicker 11HS8 8" 150 Watt Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure 713034055556 | eBay

So first you have to take out the back seat. This was the biggest pain, the seat backs are finicky. I was reading that you have to lay the seats ALL THE WAY DOWN... This is not the case, unless maybe the seat bottoms are still in. Then I could maybe see that working out. It takes about 45 degrees down and A LOT of wiggling. Seat bottoms were easy, 6 bolts.

The seat bottoms are held together by the foam and three metal rods that is under the actual seat. Depending on how big your amp is you will have to cut the middle out, which separates the bottoms into two pieces. Which is nice if you just want to remove one side in the future.

I had to take off my door panel and trace down wires for the door speakers because I couldn't find anything specific online. I ended up taking the B pillars off, there is a plug of wires in there. On the very top of the plug the two middle wires, blue and blue/brown. (Same color on both sides). This is where I tapped in to the high level inputs. (Although these wires directly go to the door subs so they might just be a low range signal).

Run those wires back to your amp, or I my case I had a little harness that had a single plug coming off the powered sub.

For the power wire you have to get under the seat to the little fuse box next to the battery. I had a little extra stud with no fuse so I put a ring terminal on it with an inline fuse that came with the kicker kit. If your using a larger power cable then you could go directly to the battery or there is a larger stud on that fuse box, just make sure to use a in line fuse.


Now for the signal wire to turn on the amp when the car turns on. I read most people run a wire all the way up to the fuse box. While that is a lot more to take apart, and probably the right way to do it. (There is no ign power at the fuse box under the seat like I had hoped). But in the back trunk, at least I did, you should have the 12v accessory outlets. I tapped into one of the wires there and ran it the 3 ft back to the amp. This is not a high drawing wire for the amp, just simply turns the amp on. So shouldn't have an issue with too much draw even with an accessory plugged into the outlet.

The ground I just went to one of the set belt bolts inches away.

Mounting the subwoofer was easy it came with very nice brackets that you can put on a couple different ways. The metal under the seats is layered, and I could tell that the bolts for the seat belts were so long I should have an issue just pre drilling small pilot holes and then hand screwing the little screws into the sheet metal. Worked out great, shouldn't have to worry about hitting anything like gas tank unless you have 3" wood screws. Haha. I used 1/2" screws with a tiny pilot hole. Set the drill up so that when the drill was all the way down it was only in about 1/2". That way I would know if there was another layer or part (gas tank) anywhere near that first layer of sheet metal.

I had to trim a lot of foam off the bottom of the seat. Might scare some people but cosmetically once the seat is down you will never know. And the only people siting in the middle of the seat (if ever) would be a small child. The seat has a bunch of hard foam in addition to the normal seat material, I only took off the hard foam.

This was a headache but I hope this is useful!


Finished product. 5-6hrs time




Sounds very good, until it hits a looser bass note. The kind that makes speakers move a lot. But that's what you get with a small sub.
 

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Very timely post. I ordered the same Kicker powered subwoofer yesterday. At first, I was planning on just leaving the unit in the back but now I think I may put it under the rear middle seat. The manual says an option is "DC Offset turn-on". When the switch is set to DC turn on, the amp detects a HI-Level output from the speaker wires and turns the unit on. Did you try this? I would prefer not to tap into the aux power. Also, if you sit in the middle rear seat, can you feel the sub under your butt? If I ever have to put an adult there, I wouldn't want to damage the sub.

I also ordered trim and panel removing tools to take off the B pillars to access the speaker wires. Did you just have to remove the lower panels?

How do you like the performance? Is your system Dynaudio and if so, where do you have your settings at? What about the settings on the amp?

Any input is appreciated.
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Discussion Starter #7
I will look into my setting for you as yes I have Dynaudio.

I like it, I don't think you can feel it under the seat, but I weight 140lbs. A big person shouldn't be riding bi*ch anyways haha.

You have to get the lower b pillars off but the uppers had to come loose first.

I didn't know about the turn on feature. But seems unreliable..
 

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Well, it looks like I cannot mount my powered sub under the rear middle seat. There is a plastic duct that sends air from the rear HVAC to the vents for the passengers in the back seats.
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I guess I have to revert to my original plan to place it in the rear cargo area. There is a Gorilla Mat back there and Velcro sticks to it very well. I will put Velcro on the bottom of the unit and with the quick release plug, I will be able to simply remove it if need be. .
 

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Well I installed the powered sub yesterday and it went pretty easy. The only slow part was removing the trim. I didn't want to do any damage. I put Velcro on the bottom of the sub and it stays put.

It adds some nice lows to an already good Dynaudio sound system. I need to do a little more adjustments to get it tuned in just right.

image-869105894.jpg
 
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Nice work, looks neat. Have you thought about putting velcro on on the top of the amp as well, and the side of the cargo bay so you "stick" the amp to the side of the cargo area temporarily if you need access to the kit underneath.
 

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I did consider that but there is a quick disconnect plug that makes it easy to remove if necessary.
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Good stuff, have thinking of installing the kicker for a while now. Good to see this.
 
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