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Multiple Fuse Blowouts, Then Fire

656 views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  SaVAGeSoot  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everybody, I'm here again to ask for your advice.

This morning, I started the car (Touareg 7P5 CRCA 2013) to move it to a different parking spot and observed ABS/ESP warnings. I didn't panic and connected OBDeleven diagnostics to the car (not perfect, but good enough I'd say). A new error appeared - "Level control system control head - no signal"; error code C10D431. After doing some research, I decided to check the fuses with the help of - (Fuse Box Diagram Volkswagen Touareg (2011-2018), particularly fuse 16 (5A) on the right side edge of the instrument panel that is responsible for majority of the things that didn't work:
  • Control unit for electromechanical parking brake -J510-
  • Operating unit to regulate suspension height -E281-
  • Left washer jet heater element -Z20-
  • Right washer jet heater element -Z21-
  • Button for TCS and electronic stabilisation program -E256-
  • ABS control unit -J 104-
  • Hill descent control button -E618-
  • Auto-hold button -E540-
  • Voltage stabiliser -J532-

Indeed, the fuse 16 on the right side of instrument panel was blown, so I replaced it with another 5A fuse, put the cover on and started the engine. The errors were still visible, decided to clear faults in OBDeleven app and even turned off the engine. To my surprise, the faults were still present, so I checked the fuse and it was blown again. I wasn't sure if the fuse was not defective prior to the replacement, so I decided to replace it once again. Started the engine one more time, I immediately noticed the smell of burning plastic and after a couple of seconds, a smoke from engine compartment. At that moment, I paniced, but managed to turn off the engine and open the hood. I could see some smoke actually coming from the hood itself, but at that time, I thought it was from the fuse box in the engine compartment, so I started digging there. Found nothing, all fuses were alright in all 3 places that I know about. After some time I called a friend for help and this time brought a fire extinguisher so we'd be prepared if something dangerous happened. Sure enough, something did happen! We removed the hood insulation pad in order to see that the heated washer jet on a driver's side (left) caught on fire! I panicked again, but managed to put the small fire out.

Then, after some research on the internet, I decided to test the cable that was originally connected to the faulty washer jet to the other washer jet - it had not melted and was not hot. I tested voltage from those cables to both washer jets and got 12V when ignition was on.

I'm planning to buy new heated washer jets together with new connectors, but at the same time, I don't want to risk another fire, especially on the road, therefore trying to solve the root cause (if it wasn't the single washer jet failure).

Questions:
  1. Why didn't the last fuse blow?
  2. Is always getting 12V to heated washer jets normal in summer conditions? It was nearly 30°C today, and the car showed the correct temperature on the screen.
  3. Possible root cause and fix?
Thank you and have a nice day!
 
#2 ·
Odd that the fuse wouldn't blow again. Are you sure you replaced it with the correct amperage fuse?

So with the washer jet disconnected, there are no more fires starting, and the fuse doesn't blow? It really could only be the jet itself.

Looking at a wiring diagram, it looks like there is power supplied constantly when the ignition is on. They aren't temperature controlled or anything.
 
#3 ·
Agree with Kiwikev.
Another possible reason for the fuse not blowing on the last attempt is that the element is not completely short circuit and it is drawing not quite enough to blow the fuse. When something else on the circuit activates the fuse blows.
I've read that the element resistance is normally 35 Ohm. So that is only about 4 watt. If it was drawing 5 Amp then it would be dissipating 60 Watt. Certainly enough for smoke.
If you have access to a multimeter then measure the resistance of the element. I suspect it is well below 35 Ohm. (unless it has now blown open circuit after the fire )🔥
 

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#4 ·
So you had a blown fuse, replaced it, and it blew again. Then you decided to replace it again without investigating the issue?

Interesting.
 
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Reactions: amirhz
#5 · (Edited)
Odd that the fuse wouldn't blow again. Are you sure you replaced it with the correct amperage fuse?
Positive, orange 5A fuse.

So with the washer jet disconnected, there are no more fires starting, and the fuse doesn't blow? It really could only be the jet itself.
Correct.

Looking at a wiring diagram, it looks like there is power supplied constantly when the ignition is on. They aren't temperature controlled or anything.
Does it mean that the heating component of washer jet heats all the time - summer, winter?
 
#12 ·
I’ve had just about enough of your ASREUWHBG brand bashing! They are much higher quality than DDUCBBQURT brand fuses.

The nerve. 😤