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Discussion Starter #1
2004 T1 V8.

Had the common battery drain issue.
Disconnected door antennas for KESSY. Key fobs worked. Battery drain still present.
Pulled sat nav and phone fuses. Battery drain still present.
TPMS has been dead a long time.
Discovered last week that pulling the two radio fuses solved the battery drain.

Received VCDS this week. First step, get rid of annoying TPMS warning. No problem. Then got rid of annoying seat belt warning. Then enabled DRL option in MFD.

Sometime during all of this I pulled then cleared the codes. Now the key fobs don't look or unlock the doors.

They don't show up in VCDS and under 46 adaptation option 01 should be "remote control adaptation" but that's gone and instead I have "single door unlock".

Seems somehow I deleted the reciever function?

Downloaded Elsa, can't get a T1 repair manual to load despite inputting all my car data. It's V6.0. I think I need a security code which VCDS says to get from the factory repair manual.

As things stand now I have to manually unlock the car with a key then start it right away or the alarm goes off.

Thank you in advance for any help!
 

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If they keys are actually able to unlock and start the car, then the Kessy didn't forget anything, and it's just the remotes that got out of sync. To make them work again you only need to resynchronize them. The procedure is described in the owner's manual, Chapter 3.1, "Synchronizing the remote control key".
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If they keys are actually able to unlock and start the car, then the Kessy didn't forget anything, and it's just the remotes that got out of sync. To make them work again you only need to resynchronize them. The procedure is described in the owner's manual, Chapter 3.1, "Synchronizing the remote control key".

Per the owners manual 3.1, page 50:

Resetting the remote key
The remote key has to be reset if it does not lock or unlock the vehicle

-Unlock the driver's door manually by inserting the key in the door lock
-Switch on ignition.

^^^^ I've done that. No luck. I've tired other measures to reset them as well. Nothing works. What I do know is I am missing a menu option in VCDS under 46 adaptation for "remote control adaptation".
 

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No. You also have to lock and unlock the car using the remote buttons a few times in <10 or <30 seconds (don't remember exactly) right after immobilizer has disengaged.

This problem happened to me after a battery change in one of the key fobs (though I did more than one change, and other times it didn't happen). and I could restore sync easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No. You also have to lock and unlock the car using the remote buttons a few times in <10 or <30 seconds (don't remember exactly) right after immobilizer has disengaged.

This problem happened to me after a battery change in one of the key fobs (though I did more than one change, and other times it didn't happen). and I could restore sync easily.
I have tried probably 5 different methods to resync the keys. Nothing works. I have a bigger problem than that. I believe I disabled the remote receiver in the car inadvertently when messing around in VCDS. If you watch the following video you will see that under mod 46 adaptation he gets a selection for "remote control adaptation". Mine does NOT show that option.

I am thinking that when I disabled the TPMS warning by pulling it's fuse and running adaptation I also lost the remote function because I have other fuses pulled while trying to sort out my battery drain issue. I finally solved that issue, it was the radio. So no radio fuses. I replaced all other fuses besides the TPMS and two radio fuses. Still no remote control adaptation option.

What I am asking is HOW to I reenable the remote key receiver function in the car. I found a thread somewhere where I guy also "lost" his remote adaptation and had to have the dealer reflash it. I would think that if I had the mod 46 security code I could possibly do that myself and save myself the dealership aggravation and expense.

Basically I need a VCDS guru's help and an access code. I think.

Thank you for trying to help though. I WISH it were as simple as resync. My keys aren't even recognized except by KESSY for starting. The buttons do nothing no matter what I do to try to resync them. BTW I have replaced a battery on these in the past, open the door with it and start the car and it's reset. I've even done the thing where you put one key in the ignition and use the other to lock and unlock the door then hit the unlock button for 6 seconds etc. I just do not think it's a resync issue. I think it's a not receiving signal issue.
 

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Not sure whether you should have that adaptation option. Or did you confirm you had it prior to messing around with VCDS? Your codings seems to match the old ones (apart from the DLR setting), so, there should be no change in the available adaptations. On the other side, those adaptations vary by control modules / car models heavily - so, if you've seen it in a generic video or in one that was made with a different car, it very well might be that you never had that adaptation option in the first place.

Considering the circumstances I'd be more suspicious of the aerial/antenna having some hardware/contact issue, than some coding problems. Then again, who knows.

Btw here's the re-sync procedure: https://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/fob-key-programming-61416.html It actually involves using a second key. I'm not sure whether I needed that one when I did mine, but because it was years ago, maybe I did actually use also a second key, I just don't remember that anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found that thread last night and tried it. For good measure I just tried it again. No luck. Nothing happens when I press the unlock button. Still I waited 6 seconds and pressed again. Nothing happened. Swapped keys. Nothing happened.

Curious, car will not enable alarm with the key in the ignition and manually locking the door. However it will enable the alarm with a key sitting on the console and manually locking the door. So it seems the key is only recognized by the coil in the ignition switch itself.

I think we can rule out a hardware antenna issue. Keys worked fine prior to all of this and had good range.

I recall I disabled the TPMS. Shut the car down, locked and unlocked with the key while sitting in the driver seat. Then started it back up and did the DRL mod and seat belt warning mod. Then I scanned the codes. Lots of low voltage DTCs from my battery issues. I saved those as CDS001 above. I erased the codes. That's when the trouble started. Rescanned the car CDS002 above. Nothing sticks out. I need to replace a brake lamp and I have a bad interior air sensor. No KESSY codes. No nothing. However look under KESSY in CDS001 and there's this:

01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533) 005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100101 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 14

See No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - Intermittent. Not sure what that means.

The car was giving me hell with the battery drains, and TPMS coming on, and airbag warning. Was really annoying after jumpstarting it. All sorts of systems would not work. Currently just the two radio fuses and the TPMS fuse are pulled.

I want to like this car but annoyances like this drive me nuts. It's only got 102k on it. Bought it with 88k. It's had the battery issue since I bought it. TPMS failed a month later. Put in a brand new VW battery from the dealer, was better for a week, then dying again. I got so bad over the winter I wired in a 4amp smart charger with the cord hanging out of the hood so I could charge it every night. Forget, and time to jump it the next day. I bought the VCDS thinking I could sort some of this out. Still hope I can. But this issue of no working fobs is driving me crazy. Fix one thing, another thing breaks.

All I can figure is if you pull the fuse for TPMS and run adaptation the ECU learns there TPMS no longer exists. That is what I fear happened with my remote receiver. It "learned" there is no receiver because maybe I had a fuse out that I shouldn't have.
 

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Curious, car will not enable alarm with the key in the ignition and manually locking the door. However it will enable the alarm with a key sitting on the console and manually locking the door. So it seems the key is only recognized by the coil in the ignition switch itself.
Unless you've keyless start, this is how it should work anyway. The immobilizer system, which recognizes they key (well, actually an RFID chip in it), and the alarm system, which is controlled by the buttons on the fob, are two separate systems, that work independently of each other. The only connection and interaction between them is that when you disengage the immobilizer that also disarms the alarm system, even if it not has been disarmed through the remote controller.

And if you don't have keyless start, putting/leaving the key on the center console shouldn't do anything, even if everything works normally, because the car just wouldn't even know it's there. It can only sense the immobilizer chip when the key is inserted into the ignition lock.

I think we can rule out a hardware antenna issue. Keys worked fine prior to all of this and had good range.
Did you try putting back the removed fuses whether it solves the problem with the alarm?

01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533) 005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100101 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 14
This might be related to the radio unit (or other units possibly powered by the same fuse) not working now. Btw is it the original factory unit that the car was built with? And I'm not asking whether it's an oem unit, but whether it's what the car was built with. Can't it be that it's an upgraded unit that's CAN-bus 2.0 and is using a converter kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The radio appears to be original to the car. If it's a replacement then it's a factory replacement for my MY.

Tonight for the heck of it I did put back those fuses, along with any others. I went row by row checking them as well. So all the fuses are in and the correct amps.

I then started the car, ran VCDS, no changes that I could see. Still nothing from either fob. Tried the key in ignition key in door thing again. Still nothing.

The only think I can think to do next is unplug the KESSY wait, then plug it back in. And/or disconnect the battery for a bit.

I DID do a nice copy and paste from this website: 2002-2005 Volkswagen Touareg Fuse Box Diagram » Fuse Diagram of all the fuse layouts. File below.

Some days I really miss changing jets on my modified 1966 Porsche 911 with carbed 3.0SC engine! I think that car had a grand total of about 20 wires LMAO!
 

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There should be a fuse map in your owner's manual, and you should use that, because fuse locations and even amperage might vary between model years, engine models and trim levels!

The battery disconnect thing might be worth a try. However, make sure you've either a single battery system, or follow the instructions for the dual battery system precisely (described in the repair manuals), otherwise you might damage some components permanently!
 

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I don’t have anything specific to add... only the general statement that I have noticed when having strange issues like this.

Has your battery been tested under load? This can be done at a retailer if you remove it from the car and they bench test it. With the amount of time you stated it went flat chances are good that that may be a issue...

This may not help your situation, just letting you know what I had happen when my batteries were in need of replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There should be a fuse map in your owner's manual, and you should use that, because fuse locations and even amperage might vary between model years, engine models and trim levels!

The battery disconnect thing might be worth a try. However, make sure you've either a single battery system, or follow the instructions for the dual battery system precisely (described in the repair manuals), otherwise you might damage some components permanently!
I am aware of the factory diagram. This one is handier for me when diagnosing things.

I will try the battery disconnect today and report back.

I'm also expecting a straight thru cable today and will be trying K-commander to get the code I need to look deeper into VCDS.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you.

I bought the car last April. It had a new battery then but off brand. Late summer I purchased and installed a new battery from the dealership. So many forums made a big issue out of how important the proper battery was. That battery lasted a week before it started dying.

Last week I did a draw test on the car. 2.66-3.12 amps when locked and "asleep". I pulled the radio and amp fuses. Draw went down below 0.2 amps. As you can imagine, with a 4 amp charger and a 3 amp draw I was never fully charging overnight. Since then I have been able to get the battery back up to 100%.

This is what I know for certain. The key fobs were working prior to touching it with VCDS. I did my VCDS mods and cleared the codes and the fobs immediately quit working. Logically that would point to me doing something wrong in VCDS to lose fob functionality. Both fobs have good batteries and will flash green when you hold a button.

Logically, at this point, everything is pointing to me messing something up when I did the TPMS delete. If the computer can "forget" the TPMS exists one would assume it can do the same with the remote receiver module. Since I need a security access code to get into VCDS deeper that is what I am now on the hunt for. Hoping I can pull it from the computer today.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:

I went thru all of the fuses using the factory owners manual. All are in except the two radio ones and the TPMS.

I was able to get my immo PIN using a Vag-401.

From there I went into 05 Start/Auth and used the Ross Tech procedure for my car, with the PIN, to reprogram all three keys (including valet). They all still will start the car. Remote function still not working.

I poured over this thing in VCDS and online forums. No luck at all. The only thing that came close was a guy who stated he "lost" his remote control adaptation function using VCDS and a dealer fixed it free of charge. I am assuming they just reflashed the car? I guess I will find out in the morning.
 

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I'm still positive that this is more likely an electric/hardware issue (ie. the alarm unit is not sensing an appropriate remote signal for whatever reason), than a software one. But of course it could be either one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I believe you are correct but in a software way. I figure if I can program the computer to not search for the TPMS anymore then the same could happen with the module for the alarm radio receiver. Basically it's turned off in software but beyond my reach with VCDS. I triple checked every fuse that could power the alarm, comfort module, etc. anything remotely related to the remotes lol. I've even had the radio fuses both back in. Nothing.

Oddly though, today as I was reprogramming the keys I messed up and was using the wrong procedure and trigger Immo. The TPMS came BACK ON! Wow! I thought, so I tried the keys, no dice. Disabled, again, the TPMS.

Everything on the car is working perfectly except the TPMS (disabled), the radio (fuse pulled) and the remotes. One minor code for an air quality sensor. I'll fix that soon enough, will likely order it and a few other parts at the dealer tomorrow.
 
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