My Touareg's remote would not open the doors today. I tried to open the door lock with the physical key and the lock wont turn.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
archie666
This would be a good discussion to revisit. I have had this problem on two different 2016 Touaregs. I went to the dealer and they were initially stumped. The first step was to try the plastic key in the glove box. It turned the glovebox lock, so that told us the key was correct.
The dealer had another Touareg in service, so they went to test that different Touareg. It had the very same problem of the key not turning, but they used extra force after lubricant, and it turned. But, be warned, it was with great difficulty.
I returned home and my lock has been squirted everyday with lubricant, such as a WD40. I have (horrors) discovered that with care, using a vice-grips carefully, and with great dread, the key will turn in the lock.
It requires such force so far that I cannot do it by hand force, but with care, a vice grips does work. I hope to see another writeup but do not see it with my searching.
Good luck.
The dealer had another Touareg in service, so they went to test that different Touareg. It had the very same problem of the key not turning, but they used extra force after lubricant, and it turned. But, be warned, it was with great difficulty.
I returned home and my lock has been squirted everyday with lubricant, such as a WD40. I have (horrors) discovered that with care, using a vice-grips carefully, and with great dread, the key will turn in the lock.
It requires such force so far that I cannot do it by hand force, but with care, a vice grips does work. I hope to see another writeup but do not see it with my searching.
Good luck.
I did have an idea if you get stuck with a dead battery situation and your key won't work in the lock as it is so stiff as mine is. The battery is under the drivers seat and there is just one way I can think of to get enough juice in a dead battery situation to use your electronic key fob. You would have to install an emergency wire on the hot side which leads to some accessible point around the car. It could be just one wire, as the car is grounded. That way, you can always jump some power into a dead battery. I don't see another way.
Blade for the key Volkswagen, HU66 - Buy with delivery in the store of useful electronics Web55.ru
Where would you get it cut if this is the one?
I am not sure if this is even the correct one, or if the plastic one has a metal chip.
Where would you get it cut if this is the one?
I am not sure if this is even the correct one, or if the plastic one has a metal chip.
Metal Emergency Key Replacement - Brockton MA
Sort of. It's not a "pop into the fob" replacement, but I can stash this with a magnetic holder on the car somewhere. If you are in the greater Brockton, MA area, head over to Advanced Lock & Key and they can hook you up. I went this morning (about a 30' trip for me), and I brought along my key...
www.clubtouareg.com
TommiT- you are a man of few words. Your locksmiths in England may have the specialized equipment more frequently at hand then in the States.
Gryhnd thanks for the point in the correct direction. Appreciate the links.
Gryhnd thanks for the point in the correct direction. Appreciate the links.
The single drivers door lock is known to get sticky. If you have not used it in the last year, there is a good chance that the lock will be either very stiff and hard to turn or that it will not turn at all.
You will need to lubricate the lock. If the lock is really stuck, then a dry lube may not be enough to break it loose. Lock-Ease is a nice messy lube (graphite + solvent) in a can that can usually get any non damaged lock unstuck.
I like the lock ease spray can with the little stick. Use the stick and spray some into the lock. Then spray a little bit carefully onto both sides of the key. Curse and clean the mess that you just made. (lol) Insert and remove the key four times.
Spray a little bit more into the keyhole of the lock. Put a small amount of both sides of the key. Put the key in. Try to turn the key both directions. Remove key, Put in the key. Try to turn the key in both directions. Add small amounts of lube to lock and to key as needed.
Eventually you should get the lock to turn nice and smooth. A quick easy fix is perhaps two minutes. A stubborn lock is perhaps five minutes.
Reminder: lube and test your Touareg door lock with key lube twice a year. Otherwise, the %$%$ drivers door lock will not work when you actually need it.
You will need to lubricate the lock. If the lock is really stuck, then a dry lube may not be enough to break it loose. Lock-Ease is a nice messy lube (graphite + solvent) in a can that can usually get any non damaged lock unstuck.
I like the lock ease spray can with the little stick. Use the stick and spray some into the lock. Then spray a little bit carefully onto both sides of the key. Curse and clean the mess that you just made. (lol) Insert and remove the key four times.
Spray a little bit more into the keyhole of the lock. Put a small amount of both sides of the key. Put the key in. Try to turn the key both directions. Remove key, Put in the key. Try to turn the key in both directions. Add small amounts of lube to lock and to key as needed.
Eventually you should get the lock to turn nice and smooth. A quick easy fix is perhaps two minutes. A stubborn lock is perhaps five minutes.
Reminder: lube and test your Touareg door lock with key lube twice a year. Otherwise, the %$%$ drivers door lock will not work when you actually need it.
Yes. I have been working at it a week now. Still working at it with lubricants.
The original question though is does somebody know the part number for a blank metal 2011 to 2016 key without having to be superclever at Dremel mototooling and when I get the proper key for 2011 to 2016, who to send it to in the US to tool it out? I don't think the H66 is it, or is it? Maybe the H66u? Anybody know? I think the Touareg is a super SUV and so sad no más.
The original question though is does somebody know the part number for a blank metal 2011 to 2016 key without having to be superclever at Dremel mototooling and when I get the proper key for 2011 to 2016, who to send it to in the US to tool it out? I don't think the H66 is it, or is it? Maybe the H66u? Anybody know? I think the Touareg is a super SUV and so sad no más.
OK, let me help others from my mistakes.
1) Do not try to loosen the lock with lubricants and your plastic key. I tried loosening it that way, and the key broke in the lock. So don't do that.
2) The H66 key will work for you. I called around San Antonio and was able to find a locksmith who had the keys and could cut the wavy key. They also removed the broken key
3) The wavy cut H66 metal key works in my lock to open it and now hangs on the key ring, The plastic key will stay in my electronic key fob and act as a place holder for my key ring. It will never turn my Touareg lock again.
4) VW did a disservice to it's customers supplying a plastic key. My wife's 2016 Q5 has a metal emergency key.
Good luck and I hope you get an emergency metal key before you need it with a dead battery situation. When I got my other 2016 Touareg, it had a broken plastic key in the door. Now I think I know why. The battery must have died waiting for the TDI fix and being able to be sold during the two years it sat on the lot, and it broke from trying to turn it, most likely. I hope my experience helps you.
1) Do not try to loosen the lock with lubricants and your plastic key. I tried loosening it that way, and the key broke in the lock. So don't do that.
2) The H66 key will work for you. I called around San Antonio and was able to find a locksmith who had the keys and could cut the wavy key. They also removed the broken key
3) The wavy cut H66 metal key works in my lock to open it and now hangs on the key ring, The plastic key will stay in my electronic key fob and act as a place holder for my key ring. It will never turn my Touareg lock again.
4) VW did a disservice to it's customers supplying a plastic key. My wife's 2016 Q5 has a metal emergency key.
Good luck and I hope you get an emergency metal key before you need it with a dead battery situation. When I got my other 2016 Touareg, it had a broken plastic key in the door. Now I think I know why. The battery must have died waiting for the TDI fix and being able to be sold during the two years it sat on the lot, and it broke from trying to turn it, most likely. I hope my experience helps you.
Two times i have faced the issue with the driver door lock and both times it ended up doing lock change as the problem's that worse as it can get resolved.
I was reading a thread about this and decided to lubricate/test mine. I put some lock-ease as mentioned in post #10. Put my super robust plastic e-key in, grimaced while I was turning and to my surprise it was super easy to turn and the door unlocked. Granted my battery is good so I'm sure that helped. I wonder if with a dead battery it would be harder to turn.
I still want to get the blank metal key I have laser cut to keep on my key chain in case.
I still want to get the blank metal key I have laser cut to keep on my key chain in case.
I hope you found your way by now, and that you ended up getting a new emergency key cut from a metal blank. Lots of threads on this topic, but I'll add my recent thoughts:
- METAL KEY is the optimal solution. Plastic key + overdesigned key cylinder spring = a joke.
- Even when well cleaned and lubed, turning the cylinder 90 degrees is very tough. Save perhaps the newest of vehicles, it generally requires a tool to apply enough key torque (eg. multitool) and leaves you convinced that the key will soon break.
- OLD LUBE gets thick and dirty over time, despite zero use of the key cylinder over about a decade.
- REMOVING KEY CYLINDER to clean and lube is rather quick and easy. The Body Exterior workshop manual shows the way.
- The quick and dirty process: Remove rubber cap inside driver door near lock. Remove torx head bolt within the inside hole. Back out the torx head screw within the outside hole until snug (removal called for, but I did not force it and thus left it in). Gently pry around the lock assembly with a flat head while opening or removing the door handle.
- While removed, peek inside the cavity and see if the door lock mechanism needs some clean up. Mine did.
- If you like taking things apart, you could remove some pins are really open up the cylinder. You could also swap the spring for a weaker one. Don't ditch it altogether though, else unwanted locking/unlocking could ensue while in motion due to road vibrations.
- LOCKSMITH, not a hardware store, that has VAG experience/tools is required for a professional key cut.
Sorry to revive an old thread but I had the same issue in my 7P 2011 V8 TDi.
My key used to work fine (and I had used it in a flat battery situation a few years ago) but when I tried it a few months ago, the barrel was stuck fast and I could not turn the key at all. I've been worried about it in case of a future key fob failure but haven't done anything about it.
Then today, with the driver door open, I noticed a screw hidden behind a rubber cover on the door edge. I wound that screw out (anti-clockwise) a quarter turn, and now my key works perfectly with no effort. No lubricant, and no mucking around.
I can only assume that at previous dealer service, a technician has for some reason tightened that screw far too tight. Right now the screw is not really snug, but I don't think it will work it's way loose (and in any case it has a rubber cover over the hole it has to come out.
I'd be keen for someone else with a key that just won't turn to try backing this screw out a quarter turn and see if it also works for them.
![Image]()
![Image]()
My key used to work fine (and I had used it in a flat battery situation a few years ago) but when I tried it a few months ago, the barrel was stuck fast and I could not turn the key at all. I've been worried about it in case of a future key fob failure but haven't done anything about it.
Then today, with the driver door open, I noticed a screw hidden behind a rubber cover on the door edge. I wound that screw out (anti-clockwise) a quarter turn, and now my key works perfectly with no effort. No lubricant, and no mucking around.
I can only assume that at previous dealer service, a technician has for some reason tightened that screw far too tight. Right now the screw is not really snug, but I don't think it will work it's way loose (and in any case it has a rubber cover over the hole it has to come out.
I'd be keen for someone else with a key that just won't turn to try backing this screw out a quarter turn and see if it also works for them.
Looking forward to hearing from others. If this works even half of the time, many of us will be relieved.
Even though I solved my stuck lock issue using the method I mentioned yesterday, I decided to give my plastic emergency key to my wife last night - I am fortunate that she happens to be a manager at a locksmithing company.
She came home today with a new metal key that one of the locksmiths cut for me in just a few minutes. It's an HU66P key profile if that helps.
To test it, I went outside to the car today and tightened the aforementioned screw back up by 1/4 of a turn. Even with the metal key I could not budge it again. I then backed the screw out 1/4 turn again, and of course the metal key works just as well as the plastic one did when I took that corrective action yesterday.
I am now more convinced than ever that someone at the dealer unnecessarily tightened that screw on my door for some unknown reason, and that it almost certainly could be the same cause of the issues other members here are experiencing (and not corrosion or lack of lubrication at all). Happy to be proven wrong of course, but it gives people a place to start....
While having easy on-call access to trained locksmiths almost anytime I want is a bonus for me, that is obviously of no use if something goes wrong while I am out of town, and in fact the only time my remote fob failed to work, I was indeed 350kms away from home without a friendly locksmith or battery shop anywhere in sight! Fortunately that was before I started having trouble turning my emergency key in the lock.
Even though my plastic keys are now working fine, having the metal key as another back up still provides me some extra piece of mind should my lock ever start to seize up for some other reason.
![Image]()
She came home today with a new metal key that one of the locksmiths cut for me in just a few minutes. It's an HU66P key profile if that helps.
To test it, I went outside to the car today and tightened the aforementioned screw back up by 1/4 of a turn. Even with the metal key I could not budge it again. I then backed the screw out 1/4 turn again, and of course the metal key works just as well as the plastic one did when I took that corrective action yesterday.
I am now more convinced than ever that someone at the dealer unnecessarily tightened that screw on my door for some unknown reason, and that it almost certainly could be the same cause of the issues other members here are experiencing (and not corrosion or lack of lubrication at all). Happy to be proven wrong of course, but it gives people a place to start....
While having easy on-call access to trained locksmiths almost anytime I want is a bonus for me, that is obviously of no use if something goes wrong while I am out of town, and in fact the only time my remote fob failed to work, I was indeed 350kms away from home without a friendly locksmith or battery shop anywhere in sight! Fortunately that was before I started having trouble turning my emergency key in the lock.
Even though my plastic keys are now working fine, having the metal key as another back up still provides me some extra piece of mind should my lock ever start to seize up for some other reason.
No, you're discussing using a MECHANICAL actuation of the lock (for whatever reason - read, flat battery, dead key FOB, crapped out KESSY, etc) using a physical key.
You don't need to have any of the battery\kessy issues to test out the functionality of the mechanical lock. (or emergency key as you're calling it)
The suggestion for a metal key is to allow more force to be applied to a sticky\rusty\overtightened lock cylinder vs the OEM plastic key in order to overcome the extra resistance.
You don't need to have any of the battery\kessy issues to test out the functionality of the mechanical lock. (or emergency key as you're calling it)
The suggestion for a metal key is to allow more force to be applied to a sticky\rusty\overtightened lock cylinder vs the OEM plastic key in order to overcome the extra resistance.
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